Xenon HID upgrade

[IslandRoadster]

I readily grant (1); I have the OEM HID upgrade. My question was really about the tradeoff between HID and LED considering the difficulties with the latter. How does the longevity compare? LEDs are not forever, either, because they still get hot and the drivers fail.

i think LED tech has come a long way. I was an early LED adopter in my house. I’m impressed where the tech has gone. I’m curious to see how the do.

if it wasn’t so much money, I would have done laser headlights. @CM_007 does a laser upgrade, if memory serves. But it was a bit out of my price range.

 

[IslandRoadster]

I readily grant (1); I have the OEM HID upgrade. My question was really about the tradeoff between HID and LED considering the difficulties with the latter. How does the longevity compare? LEDs are not forever, either, because they still get hot and the drivers fail.

Here's a really excellent comparison with a chart and extensive writeup on the pros and cons between LEDs and HIDs. Worth checking out: Lighting Comparison: LED versus HID Lights

 

[Steve in SLO]

@IslandRoadster: To be fair, the chart you referenced in your post comes from a company that sells LED lighting solutions, so not exactly an objective source. Not that I would disagree with any of their findings, but definitely written in a manner which seems to be designed to lead the reader to the conclusion they desire.

 

[jason.tv]

just curious for knowledge; when you replace or upgrade to LED do you have to open the headlight lens or do you just insert and replace the bulb from the back end rubber piece that pops off and not even need to remove the headlight.

 

[Steve in SLO]

You do not need to remove the headlight. I was able to remove/install the bulbs by turning the wheel to the outside of the fender (i.e. turn the wheel all the way to the left while working on the drivers side and vice versa) and lifting the body up about 3 inches with a jack. I then able to access the two bolt cover in the wheel well, then pull the rubber cover out and do the swap. It is useful to remember the position of the tabs from the OEM bulbs so that you can start at that same position as you install the LED bulbs. They will twist about a quarter of a turn to seat.
Also, since LEDs come with external ballasts, that means there’s extra wire and a box in comparison to the OEM bulbs, there is a lot of room on the outboard side of each housing, For this, and after a bit of trial and error each of the sets I was able to stuff all of it into the housing and replace the rubber cover. I found it easiest to stuff most of that into the housing first( don’t forget to hook it up to your wiring connector from the car) first) then set the bulb in place and twist. I tried three different sets and by the time I got done with the last one, I could install each side within five minutes, so it’s relatively straightforward but does have a learning curve.

 

[drewski]

just curious for knowledge; when you replace or upgrade to LED do you have to open the headlight lens or do you just insert and replace the bulb from the back end rubber piece that pops off and not even need to remove the headlight.

here are some pics of changing out the high beam bulb.

i jacked up the car and removed the wheel, but as Steve said, you don't need to jack up the car -- just turn the steering wheel to the stops

 

[hanknum]

I can still confirm 2 weeks later that these work amazingly with no resistors so long as you align them correctly (must be vertical) and you remove the dust cover on the low beams only.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V47VVL4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

H11 LED Headlight Bulb, Aukee H8 H9 110W High Power 18,000LM Extremely Bright 6000K Cool White CSP Chips Conversion Kit Adjustable Beam

9005 LED Headlight Bulbs, Aukee HB3 110W High Power 18,000LM Extremely Bright 6000K Cool White CSP Chips Conversion Kit Adjustable Beam

No errors, no warnings, no nothing negative.

I guess it is possible in the middle of summer on a long night drive and very hot evening it "might" come back but I don't think so (but I would post back here if so).

On the high beem I did make a cross cut on the dust cover and pulled external the "module" that gets hot but not resistor surface of the sun hot. YMMV.

Hey Matteni,

I finally got around to installing these... but they don't fit. The 3 pronged tabs are too small. These look like it fits the high beam socket. Did I buy the wrong ones? How did you fit these in your low beam sockets?

Thanks,

Henry

 

[drewski]

Hey Matteni,

I finally got around to installing these... but they don't fit. The 3 pronged tabs are too small. These look like it fits the high beam socket. Did I buy the wrong ones? How did you fit these in your low beam sockets?

Thanks,

Henry

the ones in the link are for the High Beams. it's the 9005/HB3 he has in text only that you need for low beams

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Au...F6ZKZZREGRD&psc=1&refRID=YENYFMDBEF6ZKZZREGRD

 

[Matteni]

the ones in the link are for the High Beams. it's the 9005/HB3 he has in text only that you need for low beams

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Au...F6ZKZZREGRD&psc=1&refRID=YENYFMDBEF6ZKZZREGRD

Correct

 

[hanknum]

Damn! I guess I should of actually read through the post...

May 31st was the last day to return to Amazon... anyone want the high beams?

 

[drewski]

Damn! I guess I should of actually read through the post...

May 31st was the last day to return to Amazon... anyone want the high beams?

the high beams can use an upgrade too!

 

[hanknum]

Well, I ended up making the ones I bought fit into the low beam location (I'm a cheap SOB). Anyway, I've got to say, the lighting improvement is drastic. I can also confirm that the Aukee brand that I'm using does not create any errors.

Still kind of bothers me that when converting to LED, some require the installation of an external resistor to avoid errors. LED's are much more efficient (especially when compared to halogen) and adding a resistor just creates more heat and uses the same energy as a halogen to fool the computer. At least I can see at night now...

 

[Steve in SLO]

@hanknum,
Glad you’re seeing well in the darkness. I’m not sure my current solution is optimal. My 9011 bulbs aren’t great and I just bought a set of low beams that Matteni installed in his car, and hoping to avoid external resistors like he did. The 6000k color temperature has me a bit worried, though. Do yours look bright white or bluish?

 

[hanknum]

@hanknum,
Glad you’re seeing well in the darkness. I’m not sure my current solution is optimal. My 9011 bulbs aren’t great and I just bought a set of low beams that Matteni installed in his car, and hoping to avoid external resistors like he did. The 6000k color temperature has me a bit worried, though. Do yours look bright white or bluish?

If you bought the ones Matteni recommended, then you don't need an external resistor... I think they are already built in. The color is white with a hint of blue... not bad. Definitely better than the old yellow of the halogens. When I installed, I just did one side to see the comparison and it was literally night and day... pun intended.

 

[IslandRoadster]

Well, I ended up making the ones I bought fit into the low beam location (I'm a cheap SOB).

Not sure "cheap SOB" goes with "Roadster owner."

 

[Steve in SLO]

Question for Matteni and hanknum: with the Aukee lights you installed, did you put the pigtail with the driver box into the headlight housing and then recap the rear, or did you leave it open to vent heat? On previous installations, I have been able to stuff everything into the outboard side of the low beam and I have plenty of room to recap. I’m wondering if there’s a problem with heat buildup by putting a rubber cap back on or whether it should be fine.
Any advice there?
TIA

 

[hanknum]

Per Matteni, I left the rubber cap off to vent the heat. Matteni said that he initially put the cap back on, but after 20 minutes he would get an error. I have left mine off and done a couple drives at night for an hour and half and no issues. The hard plastic cover in the wheel well seems to do a pretty good job because everything was pretty clean under there.

 

[Gabner]

Thanks for all your hard work fellas!

I'll be ordering the post tecommended drop in replacement LED bulbs. No resistors needed. Leave the low beam rubber seal off to prevent overheating.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V47VVL4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Au...F6ZKZZREGRD&psc=1&refRID=YENYFMDBEF6ZKZZREGRD

 

[Timothy]

How would you compare the Roadster and the Elise to drive?

 

[IslandRoadster]

Thanks for all your hard work fellas!

I'll be ordering the post tecommended drop in replacement LED bulbs. No resistors needed. Leave the low beam rubber seal off to prevent overheating.

FWIW, leaving the rubber seals off also eliminates the unfortunate moisture buildup and condensation that Roadsters are prone to.