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Curious what you guys make of this... Just signed up for TeslaFi, charged to 100%. My car has been massively above average degradation since new, its a 2019 dual motor. Looks like its showing ~266 at 100% with 34,500 miles. It was around 288 with a few thousand, steadily dropped since. Maybe two...

Are you trying to set up the key, or pair the bluetooth for the other functionality? If you're trying to pair to the phone, you need to be in the bluetooth page for the phone to be visible to the car.

When I first got the car a bit over a year ago, the auto wipers were absolutely awful. They worked maybe 5% of the time, suddenly went full blast in perfect weather, wouldn’t work at night, when the glass was wet when entering, or in light rain. Now they’re OK most of the time, but my biggest...

The fact that they’re preheating the battery so readily now, leads me to assume they have both confidence in the motor design enough that it can tolerate the abuse, and they feel it’s advantageous enough for the battery to warm it although it adds discharge cycles.

I find it’s easier to control the vehicle on slick conditions with low regen. The trouble is, if you need to lift your foot to apply friction brakes, the regen will come on stronger than the tires are capable of tolerating, break loose, and the vehicle is unsettled. If this happens around a...

That sounds entirely normal. You should watch some videos on how bad it was a year or two ago...

I usually just scream "POWWEEEEERRRRRRRRRR" as the peal is matted.

I suspect its intended for a bit of both human comfort as well as reduced interior degradation. If they were terrified the car would melt when it gets hot, they wouldnt let you turn it off. I assume its more of a good idea, but not absolutely required. Reduced thermal cycling on the interior and...

There is no reason to suspect leaving the mobile connector plugged in will damage it. I'd assume right now tens of thousands of them are plugged in and sitting idle without worry.

That's pretty common if someone feels you endangered their life. Dude could just be a jerk though.

I suspect this is extremely common, and how the vehicle is designed to operate. My car does this, and has since new. My brothers car and a Leaf I had prior did as well. It's extremely likely just caused by the backlash in the axle splines, and nothing of considerable concern.

I mentioned in a previous thread I had 9K on the car when the tires were down to the wear bars. I forgot that I put around 3K of those with winter tires. The winter tires were new, and won’t be good for another season. So I’m thinking twice the life of snow tires isn’t terrible for an all...

I got about 9K out of the stock tires before they were on the wear bars, so 15k sounds good. It depends a great deal on how you drive. Most places will check the alignment for free. If its out, its not out by much to make it this long.

Mine does it too. I assume it has something to do with the brake booster design, it does not appear to be ABS engagement. I had a leaf that did something just like it when the battery was cold.

Can you feel a slight click in the brake pedal at the same time? Is this a single occurrence that happens just the once, at the first heavy braking event?

What you're plugging the car into is NOT a charger, its an extension cord with ground leakage detection. The charger is inside the car, so the highest rate possible is limited by the car. The onboard charger is rated at 11.5kW, sometimes it will show 12kW. The 22kW rating on the plug at a stall...

Ray has it. The only way the car knows the current it can pull is from what connector is shoved into the mobile connector. If you use a 14-50, the car is going to assume it’s plugged into a 50A outlet and will allow the full 32A. It has absolutely no way to know otherwise. There’s nothing anyone...

That's happened occasionally on my car, with every version since they implemented stop signs.

My car has done this a bunch since 2020.20.12, never had it happen before. The entire audio system randomly crashes, the car will make no audio of any kind. Sometimes the cellular connection goes out as well, and it corrects itself in a few minutes. Sometimes the radio shows its playing, but no...

The car makes a lot of odd noises. The A/C makes a relatively loud buzzing and whooshing sound from the hood area when its running hard. The car also makes a 'clunk clunk' when the high voltage turns on, and a 'thud' when the high voltage turns off. In winter, if the battery is being preheated...

The A/C compressor on the model 3 is a variable speed one, like most every other EV, but unlike ICE. This means if you leave the car in AUTO mode, and the cabin is hot, the compressor is going to ramp up to full speed to try and cool down the cabin. This is why it fades away as the car cools...

Did the car have a hot battery or was it recently supercharged?

My phone got an emergency alert while driving, and the car decided to blast it at 100% volume for some reason. It was super loud.

No, it should have no impact on your rated range. It does not change the efficiency of your vehicle in any way, unless you accelerate at higher power than you used to. Even if you hammer it every light, it's not going to be a noticeable impact compared to that same behavior without the...

The issue is lack of use. The pads only pull back from the rotor a tiny bit when you let off the pedal, and the rust makes the rotor grow in thickness. Lay on the brakes a few times and its solved for a bit. This is a good idea in any vehicle where the brakes don't get used frequently, ICE or...

Yeah, you won't get anywhere remotely near the rated range driving in a bunch of short trips over a week or two. The rated range is only achievable on long continuous drives. The car uses a lot of energy sitting around. Your car is fine, you can accelerate full throttle every stop and it won't...

It literally makes no difference in efficiency unless you drive differently. Slower acceleration is a bit more efficient, but its really not a big deal generally. If the battery is warm, accelerating at halfish throttle is a very minor impact over accelerating super slow. Full throttle, and a...

Tesla has never offered a performance variant of the Model 3 equipped with a 990 rear motor. Most likely, the hardware identifiers they use would have a different string on the 990 vs the 980, or call out the motor part number directly. Most likely telling the car its a performance model is much...

Most likely, what that box is doing is 'tricking' the car into thinking its a performance variant. This likely inst possible with the 990 motor since its not a supported config. So it's very possible they really have no clue if the 990 is different, they just know it won't work. It's possible...

400 miles a week is no problem at all. The range is quite reasonable, and its easy to hit ratings when its warm outside. Just be aware very cold weather has a big ding on range, but for the most part its not such a big deal if you have at home charging. Out of your options, Model 3 is a vastly...

This is more complex than you might initially expect. The early cars from Tesla historically have been problematic. This certainly includes Model 3. People with the early VIN's are at much higher risk of experiencing issues. Tesla most certainly does make constant changes that typically resolve...

Warm weather, HVAC off, flat ground, I can get 100-120wh/mi in my AWD at 20-30 MPH. This is absurdly impractical, but id expect an SR could crack below 100 under ideal conditions without going downhill. You need to go really slow, with aeros inflated to ~50 PSI, and have the car warmed up for a...

If you check the app while this is happening, whats the indicated cabin temp?

Maybe they changed the charger, or they're just talking about an external inverter?

Yes, basically everything you plug in that does not have a physical power switch consumes some non zero power when it’s not being used. The UMC takes something like 1-2W, it’s been posted somewhere before but I don’t recall the exact number. Relative to the energy the car consumes when it’s...

The pyro fuse is for the high voltage traction battery. This only powers the high draw stuff, like the motor, heat, and a/c. The doors, windows, radio, and screen are powered by the 12v battery like a regular car. Hooking a jump pack up to the jump leads behind the front bumper cover tow hook...

At least with the wall connector, when the car is done charging the relay opens and mains voltage is no longer present. The car does not use wall power when the car is idle. It will kick the charger back on when the SOC drops down a bit, and then it stops again when it’s at the set level. I...

The major issue with ICE vehicles is the thermal cycling they’re subjected to. The fluids in EV’s don't get super hot all the time. Fluid leaks are certainly common on old ICE cars, but the trouble is the oldest a Model S can be really isn’t that old. So it’s a bit problematic to compare at this...

I’d say the J1772 charger you’re using is most likely the issue. Try another public charger and see if that works. The next most likely candidates are the J1772 adapter, and then the car, but I don’t think it’s either of those. I’d say it’s an issue in the handle for the J1772.

The car reads the cabin temperature at a sensor under the center screen. It’s going to take a while before the surfaces inside the car are close to the same temperature. If the car is putting out warmish air, it means that’s the heating required to maintain the set point. If you get in after 5...

The biggest impact, by a wide margin, is the battery aging. The motor does ‘degrade’ to some extent, but it could be effectively considered to be zero until failure, at least in terms of mechanical output vs electrical input. PM motors are at higher risk of power loss, but it’s still basically...

2020.12.5 is most likely the latest available version for your location at this time. The only public version available after that is 202.12.6, and it just started rolling out. They usually slowly release it from west coast to East, so expect it to hit your car sometime soon.

If you put the tires in the back seat, you can fit the wheels in the trunk and passenger seat. It might be more challenging with boxes depending on the size.

I’d imagine those are the stock aero covers, and they’re not showing a different cover color than what’s available. However, they probably don’t want them to be dark enough that on some devices and brightness settings you can’t really see them.

Maybe. But they sometimes do audits and figure this stuff out.

I managed to find a set.

Yeah, I agree it would be a cool option. I believe JB or someone at Tesla once spoke briefly about why they decided against V2G. I assume there’s a very sensible reason, but it’s probably just cost and most wouldn’t use it.

The state of charge meter depends on temperature, the car can consume energy sitting idle overnight, and it does sometimes overrun the set charge percent by a little bit for some reason. If you set the charge to 60%, it might have charged to 60% when the battery was a bit warm, then it stopped...

Extreme weather is probably the best example of why it’s very possible to run the battery to zero. Range is very, very bad when the weather is awful. Luckily it’s super uncommon to need to go long distances in -20C weather, through deep snow, with a lot of precipitation so you must keep the...

The odds the car was intentionally delivered to you with a plug in a tire is not something I’d bet on. 10k miles is plenty to run over something. Either way, there’s no way to prove it. It does look more like a nail to me, but I’d be curious to see if it really is a rubber plug.