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Well, in Canada you don't actually own your car (or anything else for that matter). We have zero property rights. We possess things only by approval of our gov't for as long as they see fit. So in effect, the gov't took a loss!

Suspension travel will be limited because its IFS IRS. The CV joints articulate only so far.

Why not use portal hubs?

Sure. I currently own a aluminium Ford. There are tons of threads to help with that. Just making people aware that insulation is needed. And the frames of conventional trucks are steel. So bolting hitches,camper tie downs and winch mounts do not require anything special.

Whatever options you choose, anything bolted to the stainless body of the CT will have to be insulated if it is not made out of stainless steel. Otherwise you will be creating another battery of sorts and corrosion will occur. This could be a real pain when mounting winch mounts and receiver...

Have you owned a modern diesel? No stink, no noise. The CT will compete against half tons anyway.

"Real cold"? In Toronto? Toronto is the banana belt of Canada.

You can do that yourself with the ignore feature.

Except for the most popular one. The pickup. Which is a class 3.

I do. I pull my FJ40 on an 18 foot car hauler. To the Black Hills and back last year 11.4 mpg. I've done this trip twice now with the new truck and it has been very consistent. Missing from my pic is my KLR650 and welder/tools but you get the idea.

The article I posted said class 2B - 3.

https://ww.electrek.co/2019/12/13/tesla-cybertruck-medium-duty-vehicle-carb/ Class 3? Then it competes with my new F450. I haul a 5400 lb truck camper and tow 10,000 lbs at the same time. And travel 500 miles between stops with this load. Telsa would be better served making the CT smaller.

If they are the same weight neither should be able to pull each other. Just stand on the brake.

Sleet won't dent cars.

Nothing will happen to the converter at a dead stall. If you have a powerful truck you start snapping u joints and other bits.

I am a big fan of small trucks. The CT cannot replace my F450 however it could replace the 2 Ford Rangers we have. A CMT could haul my bikes around and make a much better commuter. I do not commute in the massive F450 for obvious reasons but the Rangers are very suitable. The current crop of...

I see what you mean. The cradles and subframes on a unibody actually add rigidity to the structure. Especially the engine cradles.

As a bodyman, subframe is either a rollaway or a bolt on. We do not consider front rails as "subframes". As they are part of the structure. This is defined by the manufacturer and the insurance company, not me. If I'm pulling lower rails or front rails straight these are considered part of the...

Most unibody vehicles do not use subframes.

Even unibody vehicles used stressed skin. The rear quarters are a great example.

If the CT get any internal bracing (lower sills, firewall, rear bulkhead) in effect it becomes a unibody. Or some hybrid in between.

I also haul a lot of bikes. Expensive bikes that I like enclosed. With a topper on my Super Duty trucks this was no problem. I assume something similar should be available for the CT. Not a fan of slots in the bed. I can imagine them getting bent up, filled with frozen mud and ice etc.

That would be less than ideal for many owners. But perhaps the 1/2 ton crowd doesn't ditch their tailgates as frequently as the heavy duty trucks do. I'm sure they are thinking about it though.

Roll up tonneau covers do not work in the land of ice and snow. They freeze shut. Not even the roll or fold up variety work well in the winter. And at -35 the last thing you want to do when working outside is piss around with frozen equipment. It's either leave the bed open or use a topper. I've...

Please don't make this smaller. An 8 foot bed on a long wheelbase is a stable towing platform that can also haul whatever you want. Make it bigger if anything.

Anybody with a dually knows you don't load over the side.

How does the tail gate detach? And when you remove it what lighting do you have?

With this type of design its going to be extremely expensive to repair. The crush zones act as they do so the force of impact is not transmitted to the occupants, The CT will have crush zones and "frame rails" like a unibody in the sills and possibly over the doors. Front and rear crush zones...

For sure. I'm a fan of the ALH though. I have a 2013 TDI but I don't think I would trust it in the post apocalyptic world.

They are not using less anything regarding the material. The sheet steel is so think they have to score it to bend it. This is going to be a 7000 lb truck. And that is not a bad thing. You can't pull heavy with a flyweight vehicle. Not safely anyway. I'd like to see this truck be able to pull...

If a model X weighs 500 lbs more than an F150, you think a bigger vehicle with a stronger body made of heavier material, bigger motors, wheels, tires, brakes, battery and everything else, will be 500lbs lighter than a model X?

Why have any of that? Diesel. A 2000 or so VW should do just fine.

Call it what you want. My F450 is positioned at class 3 trucks. But we all know what it is.

The CT is a 3/4 truck. It's going to weigh around 7000 lbs.

You are going to bag an air bagged truck? 5th wheel trailers are for 3/4 and heavier trucks. 1/2 ton trucks are less than ideal for this task.

The 19.5 is a different beast. Ford recommends 80 psi in the steers and 80 psi in the rears. There is no safety bead in the 19.5 so that plays a big part. On the plus side these G rated tires can last well over 100,000 miles. And then you can get them cut again.

Well, the tailights located in the tailgate does not meet DOT standards. Those have to be body mounted on all trucks with a tail gate. It will also need mirrors. And a spare tire.

Right now, it can't. If it is redesigned, then maybe.

This is a bizarre thread. If you need a truck you need a truck. And if you bought one you obviously need one! The Tesla is still a prototype. We don't even know what the final rendition will be yet. The tail lights are still mounted on the tail gate and there are no mirrors. It's going to...

Historically, trucks have been under rated and overloaded. All the manufacturers know that some people are really going to beat on these things. How that will work out with the CT remains to be seen as it's an all new platform. After watching that video with the Model X towing that little camper...

Agree with that. I run 100 psi in my 19.5's when I have a 5000 lb camper in the back. I pump them up to 110 if I have the camper on and I'm towing a trailer with another truck on it. Empty at those pressures can feel like a skateboard.

lol you're violently agreeing with me on the base premise but we disagree on the details. Base variant of the F450 base trim is 8600lbs ( I know there's a larger one that weighs more obviously that's what you got) but you claimed 10000, that's where the 1400lbs of bolt ons come in. and Sorry if...

Yes. That is also a good way to grenade CV joints and other expensive bits! Been there done that. Too many times unfortunately :(

OK. For some reason I though it was specified as a 3500 lb payload.

*shrug* 1400lbs of bolt on accessories isn't really that unusual on one of those. GVWR is 14000lbs on the F450 My truck weighs 9800 pounds. As it came from Ford. There is no way a 7000 lb vehicle of any sort is going to pull it if I apply the brakes. My truck will be putting 10000 lbs down to...

There will be no 3500 lb payload without dual rear wheels. When you add then weight of this truck (8000 lb?) occupants and a 3500 lb payload you are well into G rated 19.5 tires. Well beyond the typical F rated DRW tires and certainly beyond a typical 1 ton SRW E rated tire.

Now thats a load Failed math huh?

Any Ford truck? Really? I have a new F450 that begs to differ. All 10,000lbs of it. It's all about weight. The CT wouldn't be able to put enough traction down to move my truck.

One thing to remember when designing a TC is the CG is the same when it's off the vehicle. Meaning you should be able to jack it up, drive the truck out, lower it down and live in it. All without the camper tipping over. You should be able to sleep in the cabover when the camper is off the truck...