12v Switched?

[todd2fst4u]

Take a pic of the pins and tell me what you have going to what

Pin 86-center console switch wire (brown)
Pin 85- ground (I’ve tried ground different places)
Pin 30- 12v constant (blue center console 12v or red VCleft wire)
Pin 87- use this pin to power accessory

 

[Idkorcare]

I was wanting a pic just to double check but you check resistance so you got the right pins, I dont know. When you figure it out its going to be something stupid.

im using something similar to this to power a voltmeter PC236-1C-12S-X 10 Amp Sub miniature PCB Power Relay SPDT, 12 volt coil But i bet the current draw is similar but if its just a radar detector it looks strong enough. Or something like this to trigger a stronger relay BR-1050: Bestar Electric : Reed Relays SPST-NO 0.5A 12VDC 1.05KOhm Thru-Hole : Electromechanical

 

[todd2fst4u]

Does your relay have a resistor or diode built in between pins 85 and 86?

 

[Idkorcare]

Flyback diode - Wikipedia

Pretty sure it would still work either way or at least not causing your issue, pretty sure my relays dont have diagrams on them or have been rubbed off over time

 

[todd2fst4u]

Flyback diode - Wikipedia

Pretty sure it would still work either way or at least not causing your issue, pretty sure my relays dont have diagrams on them or have been rubbed off over time

This sounds very similar to my problem.
Insufficient current to drive automotive relay?
My relay isn’t receiving enough current to power the coil. I’m unsure how to fix this issue besides trying a different relay that requires less current. I don’t see this spec listed when purchasing relays however.

 

[hamtonp]

I'm using VCLeft for my radar, dash cam, remote amp, and trigger for my lighting. On 16.2.1, there is a delay to turn off but it does actually turn off. The delay is around 30 seconds or so. I think it also turns off when I immediately walk away and the door locks.

My bad. I didn't see the comment eXntrc made was in reference to while charging. I haven't noticed because I've been using the superchargers. I guess I will wire a switch to manually turn the devices off for now.

 

[todd2fst4u]

I’m using a red wire from VCRight to trigger my relay and everything is working properly. This wire switches on when the brake pedal is first pressed and off when getting out of the driver seat.

 

[todd2fst4u]

I was able to get a relay working on the center console storage led circuit. I bought a bunch of different relays on Amazon to find one that worked. These 2 both worked correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CJ05WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QYc5EbC34W4WV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B60BQFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rZc5EbVMVGEAN

 

[Idkorcare]

Pretty sure the old relay I used was a normal DEI instead of that mini so maybe the brand played a roll lol, glad you got it working. I never did try any of my other relays but they were all DEI from way back when I used to install car alarms/ stereos.

 

[eXntrc]

I just wanted to follow up on post #28 in this series by @Ingineer. He suggested tapping the 30A feed to the rear amplifier if you have premium sound. But today I finally popped out the carpet again and tested that wire right at the amplifier. To my dismay, this wire also does NOT power off when you get out of the car. It appears this stays on until the car goes to sleep, like every other accessory wire.

I have three major problems with using any wire that stays on till sleep:

1. Heat - My JL HD1200/1 amp has reached 125 F just sitting in the trunk without anything playing. Since the amp has the same power output when the voltage is 12.5v as it does when the voltage is 14.4, I'm guessing anything over 12.5v is just shed as heat. The Tesla supplies 13.5 to 14.
   
   
2. Vampire Drain - Obviously if the amp is sitting there generating heat then it's also draining the battery.
   
   
3. Cannot Maintain Vehicle Power Error - This amp has a huge current draw when it powers on. Which is why we designed the "trickle charging" circuit show in my Power Article. The trickle charging circuit needs to delay when the amp comes on on slightly, otherwise you can get the Cannot Maintain Vehicle Power error. When this happens, the only way to clear the error is to wait for a full sleep cycle or do a hard reset, which requires time and the use of a socket wrench.

So I really need a switched circuit that powers off quickly. I could go with the small brown wire and relay method @Idkorcare mentioned in post #48 and #49, but something about that approach worries me and I'm not sure why. I think maybe because the wire is so tiny in gauge. I know I will hook it up to a relay, but I'm hesitating with this approach. For those who have done this, what 12v source did you pass through the relay? Did you use the regular accessory wire?

I also haven't tried the wire @todd2fst4u linked to in post #67 yet. Primarily because I'm worried about it being yet another undocumented wire that Tesla could just change on us at any moment. Does anyone know what this wire in VC_RIGHT connects to?

 

[todd2fst4u]

I’m using a relay on the center console light switch circuit to power on my audio equipment. For the constant 12v for the relay, I used the blue center console 12v socket wire. I figure the car can handle the load here without problems. I’m only using it to power a radar detector, turn on my amps, and power the ambient leds.
I ended up using this relay.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B60BQFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rZc5EbVMVGEAN?&tag=tmc064-20
The wires for the coil on this relay are also very tiny like the center console switch wires. It only needs 30mA to switch the relay.
I have half the relay wired to the center console light switch circuit. This turns on my audio equipment and ambient leds when I open the door. The other half of the relay is wired to the VCRight red wire. This turns on my radar detector when I press the brake pedal. All of these wires are “undocumented” by Tesla. Even the penthouse 12v under the rear seat. One shouldn’t worry you more than another. If Tesla changes the behavior of the VCRight wire in the future, its not a big deal. I can swap the radar detector to the center console led switch circuit.

 

[Idkorcare]

Im still pulling power off VCLeft using a relay off the console light and agree that its seems weird using that for trigger but i think part of that was prior people using the console light like a switch, so open the console to turn the light on to turn something else on but the brown wire is basically accessory power. Just toss a 1 amp fuse on it if you are worried about it messing with something.

for your #3 problem how are you triggering the amp relay/solenoid and turning your amps on? Im still using GTO since it adds to the delay of the amps kicking on and im pretty sure GTO is also triggering the amp relay/ solenoid. When i used the old vcleft to trigger the relay I got that error because how the car wakes up from sleep.

actually, let me check that tomorrow, i know im using GTO to turn the amps on but the relay might be on door trigger still, but either way GTO has more of a delay kicking the amps on and gives it longer to charge up slowly.

 

[todd2fst4u]

The brown center console led switch circuit wire can be accessed in the VCLEFT footwell area. It’s a thin gauge brown wire in a large bundle. There is identical brown wire in the bundle so you’ll need to use a multimeter to test.

 

[Watts_Up]

If you installed the ODB2 cable and device to use the Scan My Tesla app,

you can get 12 V accessory source from the ODB2 plug (Pin 4 & 5 Ground, Pin 16 Power + 12 V)

 

[todd2fst4u]

If you installed the ODB2 cable and device to use the Scan My Tesla app,

you can get 12 V accessory source from the ODB2 plug (Pin 4 & 5 Ground, Pin 16 Power + 12 V)

Is this switched or constant 12v? Pin 16 in a standard OBD2 connector is constant 12v. Is the Tesla OBD2 different? Finding a constant 12v isn’t the issue here, switched 12v is more difficult because the car has the ability to wake itself after you leave it.

 

[Watts_Up]

Is this switched or constant 12v?
Pin 16 in a standard OBD2 connector is constant 12v. Is the Tesla OBD2 different?
Finding a constant 12v isn’t the issue here,
switched 12v is more difficult because the car has the ability to wake itself after you leave it.

I think this is what I understood from this tread, the OP was looking for a 12 V source which is off when the car goes to sleep?

If that the case, then yes the ODB2 device is shutting down when the car is asleep.

It's why I mentioned "12 V accessory source", in the same way as in a traditional ICE car, when you turn on the ignition key.

But the plug is still active when Sentry in on.


Note: I connect this way my Blackvue dashcam DR900S which is connected to the cloud.

So I received a notification every time the car wakes up or goes to sleep.

 

[todd2fst4u]

I think this is what I understood from this tread, the OP was looking for a 12 V source which is off when the car goes to sleep?

If that the case, then yes the ODB2 device is shutting down when the car is asleep.

It's why I mentioned "12 V accessory source", in the same way as in a traditional ICE car, when you turn on the ignition key.

But the plug is still active when Sentry in on.


Note: I connect this way my Blackvue dashcam DR900S which is connected to the cloud.

So I received a notification every time the car wakes up or goes to sleep.

This is the same behavior as using VCLeft after the 16.2.1 update, the center console 12v socket, or audio sensing (GTO).
It’s not ideal because power is still be delivered if sentry mode is being used. Audio equipment, radar detectors, and other accessories don’t need to be powered on during sentry mode are wasting battery power.

 

[Watts_Up]

This is the same behavior as using VCLeft after the 16.2.1 update, the center console 12v socket, or audio sensing (GTO).
It’s not ideal because power is still be delivered if sentry mode is being used.
Audio equipment, radar detectors, and other accessories don’t need to be powered on during sentry mode are wasting battery power.

I didn't thought about it aspect. This is a good point.

However, in the case of the Audio, I wonder if you still have the audio signal from the central display (FM, Streaming, YouTube, or Netflix...) when Sentry is activated? If there is no audio signal, then the audio amplifier should not consume too much energy?

Note: In my case, I use a Dashcam in complement of the Tesla Sentry recording.
So I receive an alert in case of an incident and I can also check anytime the video recording.

After 5 minutes this dashcam goes to Parking mode recording.
This could be a feature that accessories, such as radar detectors could have to save energy?

 

[Idkorcare]

The amps being on isnt to much of a problem just wasting energy but it more of an issue for people using the power for radar detectors or lighting because they just stay on running. Still wont kill the battery but you dont really want all that stuff turning on and off randomly or staying on for for no reason

 

[baba]

My english is not that great and have a bit hard to keep up what you talk about.
Is VCright the way to go with a relay to get the swiched? And is it still swiched after the 2020.20 update?

I’m using a red wire from VCRight to trigger my relay and everything is working properly. This wire switches on when the brake pedal is first pressed and off when getting out of the driver seat.
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