12v Switched?

[todd2fst4u]

Thank you for that information as well @Idkorcare , maybe I'll have to forward these findings to my installer and maybe i'll be the guinea pig and see what happens. I'm also planning on eliminating the remote wire completely and using the signal from the headunit to turn on the amps. I'm afraid the properties of the brown wire might change in the future and we'll be back to square one...maybe i'll just get this all done at once and see how it goes

The likelihood that Tesla changes the way the brown wire behaves is very slim since it controls the center console led. If they change it, it means they want the led to remain on even when no one is in the car.

 

[Graycie]

The likelihood that Tesla changes the way the brown wire behaves is very slim since it controls the center console led. If they change it, it means they want the led to remain on even when no one is in the car.

I tried looking for that brown wire today by VCleft. There’s actually 3 brown wires in that harness and I did find the one that was switched but the weird thing was once I tapped the 12v relay to the brown wire, the voltage dropped to ~6.3v. Without the relay it’s ~13.4v....any recommendations? The relay doesn’t trip once I tap into the wire as the 6.3v isn’t enough to activate the coil...

 

[Idkorcare]

Read back thru this conversation, todd had the same problem and turned out to be his relay.

 

[Graycie]

Read back thru this conversation, todd had the same problem and turned out to be his relay.

Thank you! I’ll just tap the signal from the centre console

 

[Idkorcare]

Well you can try it but todds issue was his relay and ended listing a couple he tried that worked.

 

[Graycie]

Well you can try it but todds issue was his relay and ended listing a couple he tried that worked.

I did see his post about the smaller voltage relays. I’ll see if I can get my regular 12v relay to work first, if not then I’ll need to order another one

 

[todd2fst4u]

I did see his post about the smaller voltage relays. I’ll see if I can get my regular 12v relay to work first, if not then I’ll need to order another one

It doesn’t matter if you tap the circuit at the center console or in the footwell, it’s the same circuit either way. If you’re getting a voltage drop when connecting to the circuit, you’ll need a different relay.

 

[eXntrc]

ill make a couple suggestions. 1. You want your ground as short as possible.

The picture you posted was from my first "loose test". The final ground point was actually the same ground point used by the stock amplifier:

This is the same ground point others have used. If you still feel this is not a good ground point, let me know. The whole ground wire is about 3 feet long. It was about the shortest path I could come up with.

2. this one might be a little more tricky with your set up but you want to get the amp input sensitivity as low as possible buy making the DSP and LC2I doing more of the work.

My level settings were covered in Part 7 - DSP. The LC2i has a very hot (2 volt) output. I actually have to leave this fairly low or I clip the input on my DSP (the MiniDSP 2x4). I do have both the Input and Output of the MiniDSP set as high as I can set them.

This allows me to set the gain on the HD1200/1 fairly low.

I think it's worth mentioning again that the amp is generating heat even when nothing is playing.

If you still feel I should reconsider my ground, I'm open to it. And if you have any other ideas on the heat I'm absolutely open to hearing those too.

Thanks!

 

[eXntrc]

I also used an Epicenter instead of a DSP to correct the sub levels

Not to start a debate (and it's certainly not my intention to argue), but I just wanted to mention that the Epicenter does not accomplish the same goal that I chose a DSP for. Epicenter attempts to restore missing bass, but I chose a DSP to try and remove unwanted extra bass. I honestly don't know anything about the equalization in the SR+, but the Premium Sound system has a factory boost at 50 Hz that cannot be eliminated with the 5-band on-screen equalizer. This makes some songs waaaay too boomy. I used the parametric abilities of the DSP and a calibration microphone to compensate specifically for this and equalize the sound stage to a desired house curve.

For those interested, I cover both of these in:

Part 7 - DSP
Part 8 - Calibration

 

[Idkorcare]

The pic was just using your photo to try and point out where i grounded mine, 3 ft is fairly short. On my SR + without the bracket for the factory sub amp that tab alone “looks” like a horrible ground to me but for you its also grounding thru the bracket at 2 other points so your prob ok.

maybe just try unplugging the rcas on the amp or turning the gain down just to see if it affects temps. If you can comfortably hold your hand on it your probably fine, its goin to have a thermal protection if it gets to hot anyway.

 

[Idkorcare]

Not to start a debate (and it's certainly not my intention to argue), but I just wanted to mention that the Epicenter does not accomplish the same goal that I chose a DSP for. Epicenter attempts to restore missing bass, but I chose a DSP to try and remove unwanted extra bass. I honestly don't know anything about the equalization in the SR+, but the Premium Sound system has a factory boost at 50 Hz that cannot be eliminated with the 5-band on-screen equalizer. This makes some songs waaaay too boomy. I used the parametric abilities of the DSP and a calibration microphone to compensate specifically for this and equalize the sound stage to a desired house curve.

For those interested, I cover both of these in:

Part 7 - DSP
Part 8 - Calibration

Nah your good , what I ran into is lack of consistency in the sub frequencies across various genres of music that the epicenter seems to have resolved for me.
Originally I was using a fairly small box that worked great in my Volt being a hatch but sounded horrible trying to keep up with all the mids and highs. New box helps but going from rock to rap something was always off and epicenter if anything made it more consistent. I probably could have accomplished that with a dsp but havent used one in years I really regretted selling a car years ago with one in it lol. Its a fun toy, turn on classical music, turn a knob and suddenly the subs are pounding.

I wouldnt be surprised if the SR+ has a different curve on the lower end, cant imagine you would want the bump on the door woofers.

ill read back thru your blog when I get a chance.

 

[baba]

Im sorry but im very confused.
Can some one tell me were to connect so I can get the 12v swiched for my accessories led light.

I really don't understand much of all you talking about, just need pictures or video on "how to" and ill fix it the rest!

Is it VCright to go with as the video on YouTube or is it the brown cable in VCleft?

 

[Graycie]

Im sorry but im very confused.
Can some one tell me were to connect so I can get the 12v swiched for my accessories led light.

I really don't understand much of all you talking about, just need pictures or video on "how to" and ill fix it the rest!

Is it VCright to go with as the video on YouTube or is it the brown cable in VCleft?

You can go with either. The red wire in vcright looks a lot like the vcleft wire and I have a feeling that it has potential to change properties in the future similar to what happened in vcleft. But like @todd2fst4u said, the likelihood of the brown wire changing properties in slim, therefore I used that as my switched source. You’ll need to wire in a low resistance relay or else the computer will reduce voltage by ~50%

 

[todd2fst4u]

That PDF has the statement:

If greater current capacity is required, refer to CD-19-17-001, “Model 3 12V Power Circuit for Third-Party Accessories”.

Any chance there is a copy of that document to learn from?

 

[ftlum]

Hi All. Could someone post a picture (or indicate on an existing picture here) where the brown wire is located that’s being used to trigger their relays? I’ve got a 2018 model 3 that will be using VC Left as the main 12v power— I’ve done that part and now need to wire the relay part, as well as find a good place to put the ground (the footwell/ door bolt I tried makes worrisome crackling noises when I looses that bolt, so I think I need another place for the ground). Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!

 

[todd2fst4u]

Hi All. Could someone post a picture (or indicate on an existing picture here) where the brown wire is located that’s being used to trigger their relays? I’ve got a 2018 model 3 that will be using VC Left as the main 12v power— I’ve done that part and now need to wire the relay part, as well as find a good place to put the ground (the footwell/ door bolt I tried makes worrisome crackling noises when I looses that bolt, so I think I need another place for the ground). Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!

The brown wire you’re looking for is located in the same area as the thick red wire in this photo. There are multiple identical brown wires in this bundle. You’ll need to test with a multimeter for the correct one.

 

[eXntrc]

There are multiple identical brown wires in this bundle. You’ll need to test with a multimeter for the correct one.

Or open up the back side of the center console near the AC vents for the rear passengers. The brown wire going to the arm rest is the only one you need. It's in the bundle up front too, but as todd2fst4u mentioned, there is no easy way to isolate it in the bundle. You'll need to test.

 

[ftlum]

Thanks. I’m not sure if I recognize where this picture is— is it below the level of the leg airbag, and near where the door would swing open? And just to clarify— would the brown wire be tapped above the white tape?


Also, where do people attach the ground wire? The bolt deep in the footwell / door area that looked promising, but kept making electrical noises when I tried loosening it (despite turning off the power at the touchscreen).

thanks again!

 

[corndog]

Is there any reason no one is using the red power wire to the stock rear amp as their switching signal? I checked it last night. It turns on about 5sec after the HV battery powers up, and turns off some time (a minute or so) before the HV turns off. I want to use this to trigger my power relay. Seems a lot easier than running wires from the front of the car, and (as far as I can tell) does the same job. (new amp on/off will be auto from high level speaker signal)

 

[BKool]

Hey guys, I'm looking to provide a switched 12V to my amplifier. From my understanding, one of the three brown wires that is bundled with VCleft (thick red wire on driver's side) provides the switched 12V. For my application, since I'm only looking to provide my amplifier with a remote turn on signal (not to power a radar) I can simply tap that brown wire and connect it directly to the amplifier remote turn on without needing a relay? Please correct me if I am wrong but the amperage on a remote turn on is very low so it would not require a relay.