You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
The neutral goes on the bottom? We tested with a volt meter. Don’t have an amp meter, wasn’t aware that those are readily available other than the somewhat cumbersome clamp type.
Yes, wired correctly then, and did that voltmeter testing routine to get the 120, 120, 240 readings. Thanks.Ground is top and is rounded. Neutral is below. (Assuming orientation Tesla recommends.) Hot legs on either side.
One leg to the other will give 240V. Leg to Neutral 120V. Other Leg to Neutral will be 120V as well.
May want to double check that the 14-50 adapter from Tesla is fully plugged into the UMC. Unplug adapter and then put it back in. It should be flush around the edges. When checking just make sure to unplug from the wall outlet and the car first.
Also check if the lights on the UMC are flashing any warnings.
The neutral goes on the bottom? We tested with a volt meter. Don’t have an amp meter, wasn’t aware that those are readily available other than the somewhat cumbersome clamp type.
The SR cars have two 16A inverters and the LR cars have three 16A inverters. Giving you charging rates of 32A and 48A amps respectively.
It's possible one of the inverters isn't working. I believe this issue is logged and people have been able to phone Tesla to determine if one of the inverters isn't working.
Hit the charging/lightning bolt button on the screen while the car is plugged in. I bet you need to hit the + button where it currently says “16amps”. Tap that button until it maxes out, which should be 32 amps.
Did you install this breaker and plug or was it an electrician?
/cough rectifiers
But yes, I agree this is a plausible explanation.
As for other posts in this thread - the voltage is obviously correct because the car says so. So we’re not missing a leg.
There is no such thing as an “amps tester” that will tell you anything useful when the circuit is not under load. When it IS under load, you already have the car telling you it’s drawing 16 amps.
OP needs to rule some things out first though. First by getting that cold weather message to go away and trying again.
If still a problem you need to try another car on your mobile connector and/or try your car at another L2 charging station to start ruling things out.
Here are some pictures. Software setup doesn’t seem to be an issue?
I will add that:
1. this is a brand new car, less than 2 weeks old
2. The charge port does feel “loose” and that there’s a lot of clicking when I plug in and it never quite seems secure when I let go of the cable and walk away
3. I have had to supercharge a couple times, and that’s never been a problem charging at 200+ mph.
many insights based on that?
The picture in post #9 confirms the car is set to 32/32 amps but only drawing 16.As asked above, did you check the Tesla screen to see if the car is being limited to 16A charging?
We need to see the rest of this error message in one of the pictures you posted.
I suspect this is saying “charge port unable to latch, check for obstruction”. This will limit you to 16 amps charging exactly.
Even if the battery is cold it should draw the full 32 amps and use that to heat the battery.
Take a look inside the charge port on your car and more importantly, inside the charge handle on your UMC. You may have some broken plastic jammed way down in there keeping the plug from seating in the receptacle.
At some point, calling Tesla is on the list of steps, but I would check to make sure it is latched in properly first. Listen to it as it try’s to latch when you plug it in. I wonder if it sounds funny at all?
As others mentioned, it could be a dead rectifier module in your car too. But I bet it is a latching issue.
View attachment 493662
Great catch!I just re read re OP’s post and he said it clicks weirdly and does not seem solid in the port.
I can nearly 100% guarantee at this point that the issue is the charge cord not latching properly into the charge port and the car is falling back to a “limp home” mode where it limits charging to 16 amps.
All the facts line up! This is not a cold battery issue (but that is a good callout).
No, find out what’s obstructing it.So pull out and re-insert?
So pull out and re-insert?
No, find out what’s obstructing it.
I pulled it out and looked inside the charge port and the charger “wand” and there are no obvious obstructions. When I plug it in, I hear about 5 “cha-chick” clicks sounds before it’s finally done mucking about and the charging starts.No, find out what’s obstructing it.