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18" wheel on model Y

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I have a 2024 MYLR with 19" Geminis wearing OEM 255/45R19s. I'm looking for comfort.
There are some takeoff M3 Highland Photons with 235/45R18 Hankooks available.

That seems like just less tire. I can imagine it might be more efficient but definitely less comfortable.
So is the only way to get more comfort by swapping down to an 18" rim getting new bigger tires as well?

tire diameter with more sidewall is the only way tires will get you more comfort. it's a modest gain but is there.
you have about 3/4" (measure from your tires to the steering knuckle) to play with in terms of how much taller a tire can be over the MY stock 255/45/19.
that can be done using 18" wheels as well, but be sure they clear the MY rear brake calipers (front is not a problem).
 
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You can get as much - or more - tire by going to a wider 18 tire with a higher side profile. More comfort with little compromise on handling or stability. Think about where you do most of your miles - not necessarily where Road and Track do test laps. I run 295 45 18 tires on 18"X10.5" forged wheels. Approximately 7 lbs lighter at each corner. Love the set up.
 
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I have a 2024 MYLR with 19" Geminis wearing OEM 255/45R19s. I'm looking for comfort.
There are some takeoff M3 Highland Photons with 235/45R18 Hankooks available.

That seems like just less tire. I can imagine it might be more efficient but definitely less comfortable.
So is the only way to get more comfort by swapping down to an 18" rim getting new bigger tires as well?

You are looking at M3 wheels and some tyres for M3 that are way too small. The 235/60 might be a bit overboard.

On my 2T current ride I run winter 235/60R18 and it is a little bit roly poly compared to 235/55/19 summer

A proven swap is the 255/55R18 combo as pimped by the Tsportline folks. It is nearly as tall as your 235/60.

To my eye it gains a purposeful winter stance with the extra half inch of ride height. Good choice of tyres in 255/55R18.

That's what I would be going with if I could get it past Tesla CS warranty not warranty bullshit. Tesla 750kg load rated forully forged 18's with correct centre and 40offest all over the place for cheap!!! They told me their own rim is considered aftermarket because of 5mm less offset. Whatevs.
 
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You are looking at M3 wheels and some tyres for M3 that are way too small. The 235/60 might be a bit overboard.

On my 2T current ride I run winter 235/60R18 and it is a little bit roly poly compared to 235/55/19 summer

A proven swap is the 255/55R18 combo as pimped by the Tsportline folks. It is nearly as tall as your 235/60.

To my eye it gains a purposeful winter stance with the extra half inch of ride height. Good choice of tyres in 255/55R18.

That's what I would be going with if I could get it past Tesla CS warranty not warranty bullshit. Tesla 750kg load rated forully forged 18's with correct centre and 40offest all over the place for cheap!!! They told me their own rim is considered aftermarket because of 5mm less offset. Whatevs.
Yup...Martian MW05's check those boxes really well in an 18x8.5 or an 18x10.5 if you want something more aggressive on a Y.
 
tire diameter with more sidewall is the only way tires will get you more comfort. it's a modest gain but is there.
you have about 3/4" (measure from your tires to the steering knuckle) to play with in terms of how much taller a tire can be over the MY stock 255/45/19.
that can be done using 18" wheels as well, but be sure they clear the MY rear brake calipers (front is not a problem).
 

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255/55/18 is about all you can muster on a standard offset wheel.
reason: turning radius.
255 tire width just clears fender liners in a static lock-to-lock steering test. In the real world, I get a very minor 1" square rub spot. NBD.

If you want to play with wheel offsets, or wheel spacers and longer lugs, more is possible.
but it's not a calculation many people understand very well.

I just acquired some 18" Model 3 Aero wheels and 255/55/18 tires. Works great, wheels were cheap at $400/set.
So I have 2 sets of wheels / tires.
 
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The other issue with getting funky with tyres and rims is the allowable range of rim width in your chosen tyre viz a viz what that does to the tyre shape. Allowable, visually acceptable and handling capabilities are three different things.

Stretching a tyre out onto a wider rim makes it get a little shorter ie less diameter. Some of the numbers don't carry over to RL from plugging them into tiresize.com.

A mahoosive tyre on a skinny rim does funny things also.
 
The other issue with getting funky with tyres and rims is the allowable range of rim width in your chosen tyre viz a viz what that does to the tyre shape. Allowable, visually acceptable and handling capabilities are three different things.

Stretching a tyre out onto a wider rim makes it get a little shorter ie less diameter. Some of the numbers don't carry over to RL from plugging them into tiresize.com.

A mahoosive tyre on a skinny rim does funny things also.
that's not how radial tires behave. beads have to seat. the casing doesn't stretch or squat.
 
that's not how radial tires behave. beads have to seat. the casing doesn't stretch or squat.
Got a reference for how it all works? I am just going on what my tyre guy tells me. I figure someone with actual rubber in his pores probably knows more than me. I really didn't believe him but when he says stuff like "mathematically it shouldn't but when you put it on an actual rim it does", I have to listen.
 
Got a reference for how it all works? I am just going on what my tyre guy tells me. I figure someone with actual rubber in his pores probably knows more than me. I really didn't believe him but when he says stuff like "mathematically it shouldn't but when you put it on an actual rim it does", I have to listen.


broadly speaking it is not advisable to mount a tire too narrow for a wheel width, or too wide.
Either can induce a bead seat problem - at which point all pressure goes away.
Remember, we no longer have inner tubes.....the bead seat to the wheel is your pressure bond.
 
That would have to include any stick-on wheel weights.

On my 2010 Honda Fit, I had to buy new 17” wheels because the wheel weights on 16” that I had would not clear the upgraded brake calipers.

Sure, you can use clip-on weights… but alloy wheels and clip ons are usually a “no” for a couple of reasons, mostly aesthetics.
Yep, they will corrode eventually, and can lead to slow bead leaks.

I was able to somewhat hide the stick on's behind the spokes.
With some wheels there is only a small width strip where the caliper is actually very close to the inner wheel surface. As in the 18" pic on YP it really depends on the wheels inner surface design.


broadly speaking it is not advisable to mount a tire too narrow for a wheel width, or too wide.
Either can induce a bead seat problem - at which point all pressure goes away.
Remember, we no longer have inner tubes.....the bead seat to the wheel is your pressure bond.
And yet Tesla mounts 275's on a wheel width that most other manufacturers would mount a 295 or 305 :)
 

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Yep, they will corrode eventually, and can lead to slow bead leaks.

I was able to somewhat hide the stick on's behind the spokes.
With some wheels there is only a small width strip where the caliper is actually very close to the inner wheel surface. As in the 18" pic on YP it really depends on the wheels inner surface design.

And yet Tesla mounts 275's on a wheel width that most other manufacturers would mount a 295 or 305 :)
and consequently owners suffer extensive curb rash as a result.