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20" Performance Wheel Clearance

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Hi all, pulling my hair out trying to find out if I can take advantage of the current Costco sale on Velox wheels and Michelin tires. Looking to get the 18" wheels on this page called Nirvana: Velox/Costco Wheels Select Wheel

I know all about the 3mm lip on the hub, hoping to solve that with the centric spacers that come with the wheel. My concern is the caliper clearance. Does anyone with the performance brakes and 20" wheels know how much clearance from both the face of the wheel and the side there is from the caliper?

I found this tool to compare how wheels of different sizes will sit relative to the rotor and it estimates the face of these wheels will sit about 11mm closer than the stock 20" wheels:
Screenshot_20191011-185923_Chrome.jpg
 
Hi all, pulling my hair out trying to find out if I can take advantage of the current Costco sale on Velox wheels and Michelin tires. Looking to get the 18" wheels on this page called Nirvana: Velox/Costco Wheels Select Wheel
https://veloxwheel.com/order/select-wheel/?vehicle=36367

I looked at those, briefly, as well, when shopping for my winter set of wheels+tires. I passed, and ordered from TireRack.com instead.

I know all about the 3mm lip on the hub, hoping to solve that with the centric spacers that come with the wheel.

And that is the firs treason why I passed on Velox wheels - they are NOT hub-centric!
Those additional centering rings never seat perfectly well, really need to be installed on the wheel before balancing the tires, and have a tendency to cuff/wear off. BTDT, never again.

My concern is the caliper clearance. Does anyone with the performance brakes and 20" wheels know how much clearance from both the face of the wheel and the side there is from the caliper?

That's not your worry - as long as you get near-stock offset wheel, the spokes will not interfere with the caliper.
The issue with the with Performance calipers is that they are huge, and very few barrels of 18" wheels clear them. I wanted 18" wheels+tires for my winters, and could never get a definitive answer out of Velox as to whether or not their barrels will clear TM3P calipers. That was the second reason I passed on them. y will

HTH,
a
 
As said above, caliper to spoke clearance is not the problem. Caliper to barrel clearance, specifically on the rear caliper is the problem. 18s are hit-or-miss. Flow-formed or forged 18s should have a better chance of clearing due to the thinner barrel wall construction, but without either test-fitting or finding someone else who has installed these wheels it's hard to say whether they will fit or not.

FWIW these are my Konig 18" track wheels. Konig says they don't fit, but they do.

IMG_20190628_191619.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies all, looks like I'll be going with tire rack then. I love the TSportLine wheels but they're a bit more than I was looking to spend.
If you're on a budget take a look at the Konig wheels on Discount Tire's website. I'm running Hypergrams, and a few others are running Dekagrams. Any of their flow formed 18s in a +35 offset should fit. You'd need hub rings, or could run them lug centric. Theyare priced under $200/wheel and are confirmed to fit by several of us.
 
As said above, caliper to spoke clearance is not the problem. Caliper to barrel clearance, specifically on the rear caliper is the problem. 18s are hit-or-miss. Flow-formed or forged 18s should have a better chance of clearing due to the thinner barrel wall construction, but without either test-fitting or finding someone else who has installed these wheels it's hard to say whether they will fit or not.

FWIW these are my Konig 18" track wheels. Konig says they don't fit, but they do.

how many MM clearance do you think that is from caliper to barrel of rim?
 
how many MM clearance do you think that is from caliper to barrel of rim?

It's on the order of 5mm on my Dekagrams. Wheel weight clearance is not a concern. Pebbles getting caught and scoring the caliper is also fairly unlikely, though possible of course.

Basically it's plenty, and the rears are the minimum clearance locations, not the front calipers.
 
As said above, caliper to spoke clearance is not the problem. Caliper to barrel clearance, specifically on the rear caliper is the problem. 18s are hit-or-miss. Flow-formed or forged 18s should have a better chance of clearing due to the thinner barrel wall construction, but without either test-fitting or finding someone else who has installed these wheels it's hard to say whether they will fit or not.

18's fitment has everything to do with wheel barrel design.
Strange as it may seem, there is no standardized wheel barrel shape, so each manufacturer adds folds and barrel diameter variance to their designs as they see fit.
18" designation only indicates that the diameter at the tire mounting surface around the wheel's edge/lip, will be 18".

Therefore, when shopping, you have to check with the supplier if they had test fitted them on a particular car (i.e.: Model 3 Performance) to confirm clearance.

TireRack.com and DiscountTire.com do that.
All other reputable wheel sellers do as well.


If you're on a budget take a look at the Konig wheels on Discount Tire's website. I'm running Hypergrams, and a few others are running Dekagrams. Any of their flow formed 18s in a +35 offset should fit. You'd need hub rings, or could run them lug centric.

Be very careful with the former (hub rings), and absolutely NEVER EVER do the latter (lug centric).

Cheaper wheels are always made with stupid-wide diameter hub holes, then the hub opening is narrowed to each vehicle application with hub-rings. Some are more durable then others. Some are properly hub-centric, others are not. Some are metal, others are cheap plastic - those self destruct with use. All tend to fall-out during installation, and eventually get misplaced, if you swap your wheels in and out. Not great.

You will NEVER get wheels to be balanced without getting them perfectly seated on the hubs, therefore a recommendation for "lug centric" solution is guaranteed to generate wheel vibrations at speed. Avoid always!


how many MM clearance do you think that is from caliper to barrel of rim?

If the caliper clears the wheel barrel (e.g.: 1+ mm), you are good.
The larger the clearance, the easier it will be to install the wheel without scratching the paint. That's about the only consideration.

HTH,
a
 
18's fitment has everything to do with wheel barrel design.
Strange as it may seem, there is no standardized wheel barrel shape, so each manufacturer adds folds and barrel diameter variance to their designs as they see fit.
18" designation only indicates that the diameter at the tire mounting surface around the wheel's edge/lip, will be 18".

Therefore, when shopping, you have to check with the supplier if they had test fitted them on a particular car (i.e.: Model 3 Performance) to confirm clearance.

TireRack.com and DiscountTire.com do that.
All other reputable wheel sellers do as well.




Be very careful with the former (hub rings), and absolutely NEVER EVER do the latter (lug centric).

Cheaper wheels are always made with stupid-wide diameter hub holes, then the hub opening is narrowed to each vehicle application with hub-rings. Some are more durable then others. Some are properly hub-centric, others are not. Some are metal, others are cheap plastic - those self destruct with use. All tend to fall-out during installation, and eventually get misplaced, if you swap your wheels in and out. Not great.

You will NEVER get wheels to be balanced without getting them perfectly seated on the hubs, therefore a recommendation for "lug centric" solution is guaranteed to generate wheel vibrations at speed. Avoid always!




If the caliper clears the wheel barrel (e.g.: 1+ mm), you are good.
The larger the clearance, the easier it will be to install the wheel without scratching the paint. That's about the only consideration.

HTH,
a

a 1 MM clearance will suffice?
so these tesla don't have hub flexing or anything?
the caliper will never touch at 1mm away?