Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

2013 P85 Rear Drive Unit Rebuild - Looking for Mechanic

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I think my RDU in my 2013 MS p85 with ~252k miles on it may need to be rebuilt. Car just in last week or so started making a hum and a 'lub dub' sound around 20 mph down to about 8 mph. I believe this is the original DU to the car.

Is there anyone in Ohio or the surrounding states that could reliably rebuild it? I thought i would check before potentially sending it out to QC Charge in CA.
 
I think my RDU in my 2013 MS p85 with ~252k miles on it may need to be rebuilt. Car just in last week or so started making a hum and a 'lub dub' sound around 20 mph down to about 8 mph. I believe this is the original DU to the car.

Is there anyone in Ohio or the surrounding states that could reliably rebuild it? I thought i would check before potentially sending it out to QC Charge in CA.

Rebuild cost likely depends on what failed. Could be rusty rotor/stator or trashed rotor bearing causing reluctor wheel contact. All consequences of a coolant seal leak. Pull the speed sensor and check for leak (not easy to raise the rear of this car). If coolant leak caused and LDU making noise, I'd stop driving to avoid frying your inverter (coolant eventually reach inverter and damage it).

If sound is from gears. worn rotor spline etc... Then probably gets more expensive needing to salvage for those parts.

Did a full LDU rebuild DIY website with procedures and common parts sourcing info. If you know anyone someone who can drop the subframe and pull the LDU (quite challenging if no lift and lift table). Rebuild is not too bad beyond that. PM me for guidance if you locate someone with descent auto repair experience even if never done EV before. Any auto mechanic that has changed transmission valvebody before can handle this with proper procedure guidance. I can walk them through the process and tricky steps.

 
do they do drive unit repairs?

checked my email from 057 from back in November 2022:

"Unfortunately, we do not repair / replace drive units. We do perform upgrades, but not swaps."

Sourcing the coolant seal is a challenge. Only openly available source is Aliexpress no name brand (ebay seal shipped from Ukraine appears to be the same. Its what me and a couple of guys are running in our recently rebuilt LDU). QCC doesn't sell their seal. I've heard of a shop with some Tesla stock somehow (probably not scalable solution. Tesla's seals in last few years seem to fairly prone to leaking anyways)

Under this sourcing limitation, I doubt there will be many LDU rebuilders (I've been actively contacting seal manufacturers to increase sourcing without success so far) Recent Tesla reman LDU prices seems to be about $7k available at your nearby SC. Rebuilder can't do it for way cheaper along with shipping adder. I believe QCC is ~$5k + car ship or ~$3k + LDU ship. We haven't seen any Tesla LDU add seal leak collateral damage mitigation (weep hole, seal vapor migration channel)
 
  • Informative
Reactions: cwerdna
So here is a video (more just for audio) i took yesterday. cell phone in trunk. A few cycles of up to 25+ mph down to 5mph or so with only regen braking.

Any idea if this is the DU or something else (axle)?


Hard to tell but I've always found it challenging to diagnose driveline and suspension noise even in person.

There are 3 different speeds in the rear end. Induction motor runs 10:1 to tire rotation. LDU has a intermediate gear thats about 3:1 to tire rotation. And finally the differential, axle, hub, tires are all at 1:1 to tire rotation. See if you can tell which ratio is the noise in relation to tire rotation. From your sounds to 25mph, seems like per tire rotation.

I recently had a rear tire that made whomp whomp sound. Rotated it to front and now the sound is in the front. Might try to tire rotation if can't rule out the tires.
 
Hard to tell but I've always found it challenging to diagnose driveline and suspension noise even in person.

There are 3 different speeds in the rear end. Induction motor runs 10:1 to tire rotation. LDU has a intermediate gear thats about 3:1 to tire rotation. And finally the differential, axle, hub, tires are all at 1:1 to tire rotation. See if you can tell which ratio is the noise in relation to tire rotation. From your sounds to 25mph, seems like per tire rotation.

I recently had a rear tire that made whomp whomp sound. Rotated it to front and now the sound is in the front. Might try to tire rotation if can't rule out the tires.
Good call. I'll call Costco and see about a rotation and report back.

any idea if the DU sticker badge is viewable once the midshield comes off? I'm going to try and pull it today so check speed sensor.
 
Is there a Tesla service center nearby to help with diagnosis?

If you have the speed sensor checked by any mechanic for contaminated coolant then you'll know more regardless of the noise.
I think we have some half decent weather here today so i am going to get some 2x12s and add them under the rear tires to pull off midshield and pull speed sensor. I'm hoping to see an updated DU sticker in there as the car has ~ 252k miles on it.
 
I think we have some half decent weather here today so i am going to get some 2x12s and add them under the rear tires to pull off midshield and pull speed sensor. I'm hoping to see an updated DU sticker in there as the car has ~ 252k miles on it.

Only drive up the 2x12s (couple layers will do although not very roomy so have to lay on floor/cardboard wo a creeper. Avoid jacking up one side at a time to put on 2x12s. Read here on why


On pulling speed sensor, read the tip here

 
  • Like
Reactions: Alabaster
Only drive up the 2x12s (couple layers will do although not very roomy so have to lay on floor/cardboard wo a creeper. Avoid jacking up one side at a time to put on 2x12s. Read here on why


On pulling speed sensor, read the tip here

interesting about jacking one side at a time. I have done this several times (one wheel at a time) say for changing front suspension parts. Perhaps that is a bad idea?

what about 2, 2x12's stacked (so 4-ish (3.5) inch ramp) and drive up on them with air suspension on high setting (then enable jack mode)? That should make plenty of room to get in there to check speed sensor. I could then place a jack with puck under one side in theevent suspension decided to go (and save me).

OR, just use two jacks, one on each side of the rear of the car. Or invest in some Rennstands.
 
interesting about jacking one side at a time. I have done this several times (one wheel at a time) say for changing front suspension parts. Perhaps that is a bad idea?

I think fine on cement floor (done it myself many times) Wide wood boards is where friction increases.

what about 2, 2x12's stacked (so 4-ish (3.5) inch ramp) and drive up on them with air suspension on high setting (then enable jack mode)? That should make plenty of room to get in there to check speed sensor. I could then place a jack with puck under one side in theevent suspension decided to go (and save me).

OR, just use two jacks, one on each side of the rear of the car. Or invest in some Rennstands.

With air suspension (I don't have), I read people have put in jack mode and put regular jack stands (probably shorter one, or stack of something solid) under the lift pads and take off jack mode to change tires. Drive up 2x 2x12s would yield sufficient clearance as well.

Since I've been pulling speed sensor every 500 miles to check seal longevity, here is my go to solution


Rear_Undertray_and_Diffuser.MI00.jpg

any idea if the DU sticker badge is viewable once the midshield comes off?

Facing top on the speed sensor side. Maybe able to get it with a articulating mirror?

 
I think fine on cement floor (done it myself many times) Wide wood boards is where friction increases.



With air suspension (I don't have), I read people have put in jack mode and put regular jack stands (probably shorter one, or stack of something solid) under the lift pads and take off jack mode to change tires. Drive up 2x 2x12s would yield sufficient clearance as well.

Since I've been pulling speed sensor every 500 miles to check seal longevity, here is my go to solution


View attachment 894912



Facing top on the speed sensor side. Maybe able to get it with a articulating mirror?


wow, so i don't have to take off the plastic clips and every single bolt? Will try that (this will be my first time taking it off).

Never thought to check clearance while car was in high/jack mode and then placing jackstands under it. Tires are rotated on same side just front to back?
 
wow, so i don't have to take off the plastic clips and every single bolt? Will try that (this will be my first time taking it off).

Have to pull them all off the first time. Was just noting to not put all back for frequent repeat pulls later (like I'm doing trying out coolant seals and monitor leak longevity)

Never thought to check clearance while car was in high/jack mode and then placing jackstands under it.

Can't find where I read/saw that. Maybe just drive up 2x 12x2s :)

Tires are rotated on same side just front to back?

I do front/back rotation Tesla Model S Tire Rotation and Tire Care Tips (teslarati.com)
Tesla owners manual says side to side If staggered sized tires Tire Care and Maintenance (tesla.com)
 
@howardc64 any chance this may be a brake issue? I don't feel any wobbling during braking so guessing not but thought it may be worth mentioning.

I pup the car in the 'very high' mode and it had 7" or so of clearance so i dont think that method is going to work with adding jackstands under it (at least with the ones i have). just thought i'd let you know.
 
@howardc64 any chance this may be a brake issue? I don't feel any wobbling during braking so guessing not but thought it may be worth mentioning.

Certainly a possibility. A bent dust shield could make contact. Besides regular brake for stoping while driving. There is the parking brake on the rear rotor as well with its own pads. Thats the motorized sound you hear when you park or put in D or R. Parking brake is only close or open but there are brake pads on them.

Mechanics also raise up the driving wheel and run the drive train to isolate drive train noises (I think need to put into dynotest mode on this car to disable traction control). But I've been too scared to do that haha. But theoretically safe if the rear of RWD car is on jackstands (maybe tire off as well?)

Howards Model S - Parts & Diags (google.com)