2014 P85D Won't turn on or charge

[Mathewj21]

Hello everyone.

I have a 2014 MS P85D with 69k miles. ON a full charge the range is 238 miles. I haven't had any major issues with the car but before the warranty expired in january of 2023, I took it to Tesla to check the battery to ensure it is in good condition. They printed me an invoice saying it is in good condition and within the range. Based off my full charge range, I would seem that to be true. The other day, we had parked the car and not used it for a few days. It had plenty of charge on it as far as I could remember. I would say will over 150 miles of range The other night we kept getting a message saying the battery charge is very low and to charge the car. Unfortunately we were not going to be home till the next day. I checked the app and it showed the car had 150 miles of range. I could not understand why we were getting the message. The next morning we went to charge the car and it wouldn't unlock the charge port. All the accessories would turn on and operate including the door handles, windows, rear hatch, lights etc. However, none of the screens would turn on. I did the double scroll wheel method countless time for several mins at times. Still nothing. I manually unlocked the charge port and plugged in my wall charger and my mobile charger ad neither is charging the car. We get the blue light only. I really want to see if there is a way to wake this car up just to take some charge. The local TSC is an absolute nightmare to deal with and usually at least 2-3 weeks out for appointments. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Sounds like 12v quit. Charge it up by the posts behind the nosecone, YouTube helps a lot.

 

[Mathewj21]

Sounds like 12v quit. Charge it up by the posts behind the nosecone, YouTube helps a lot.

So this 2014 has the update front bumper. Would I be able to charge it by taking the frunk covers off?

 

[NewbyMaybe]

You can open the frunk?

 

[Mathewj21]

I honestly, didn't try to open it with the remote but I was able to lock and unlock the car, open the rear hatch etc. I will assume the frunk release via the remote should work. If not, I heard there is a manual release in the passenger footwell.

You can open the frunk?

 

[NewbyMaybe]

On the service page there's a notification tab, could be trouble codes there.
Send a pic of the bumper, whoever installed it must have moved the jump posts.

 

[Mathewj21]

On the service page there's a notification tab, could be trouble codes there.
Send a pic of the bumper, whoever installed it must have moved the jump posts.

I can't access the pages since the screens wont even turn on no matter what I do.

 

[Mathewj21]

On the service page there's a notification tab, could be trouble codes there.
Send a pic of the bumper, whoever installed it must have moved the jump posts.

On the app, the only message I see is : Drivabilty Service is required/PULL OVER SAFELY

 

[NewbyMaybe]

If the bumper is from a newer S then it will have a circle that can be popped open with a plastic prybar, there could be wires behind it.

 

[Mathewj21]

So I was able to use mybattery charger andget the screens to come on. I set it to charge at 40amps using the front positive cable conection. These are the messages I’m getting. As soon as I disconnect the charger, the car dies.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Slow charge overnight is better.

 

[Mathewj21]

 

[Mathewj21]

Slow charge overnight is better.

It won’t even charge because it says I manually unlocked the charge port from the trunk

 

[NewbyMaybe]

Slow charge the 12v.

 

[tesluv108]

What was the verdict here? Did the 12 v battery replacement fix your issues or is it a bigger hv battery issue?

 

[Mathewj21]

What was the verdict here? Did the 12 v battery replacement fix your issues or is it a bigger hv battery issue?

After getting an estimate for a 12v battery, HV battery, and front drive unit from tesla, I had the car towed back to the house. I went to Autozone, got a U1R duralast gold battery and swapped it into the car. The car woke up, unfortunately all the BMS codes stayed on. I couldn't physically connect the charger so I manually released the charge port lock. The light turned red. It would not charge. I ended up just gently lowering the lock enough where I could slide the charger in without it triggering the red light and it went it and light up SOLID green. Everything turned off and the green light remained. I have it still connected. When i get home from work I'llinvestigate. As of right now, the car still seems to be imobile. I apologize for the short sentence run down of events. I had explained this at least 5 times to a few other people just not in person so it just aggravating.

 

[NewbyMaybe]

It's good to hear an alternative 12v can work. Did it bolt to the connections easily?

 

[Mathewj21]

It's good to hear an alternative 12v can work. Did it bolt to the connections easily?

Unfortunately not. The terminals on the duralast are meant for "tractor/Lawn" equipment. Require a nut and bolt. THankfully, there is a "U1 terminal to post terminal" adapter on amazon. I temporarily rigged it up just to see if i could get the car to turn on. Once those adapters come in, ill connect everything up properly. Unfortunately, this didn't get the car fully work.

 

[gaswalla]

So you need a new HV battery. This is a very common occurrence a few months after the warranty expires

 

[Mathewj21]

So you need a new HV battery. This is a very common occurrence a few months after the warranty expires

I am convinced tesla rigged up some "update" to basically cause catastrophic failure. The 4 times I went there in the past few weeks, I just saw crates on top of crates of HV batteries. Tons of S/X parked in the same spot with their frunks left unlatched. There were constant deliveries of HV batteries being dropped off and picked up like a revolving door. I am in talks with Electrified garage to try and get this fixed at an affordable level.