2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread

[xAgyex]

This thread is a wealth of knowledge for older model s owners , love it . Please keep updating as you have been .

Definately will continue, as it really helps me know what I have done and also love to give to the community.

 

[xAgyex]

Oh here is the Driver Door Upper Hinge part number for anyone that might need it. And also below is how much Tesla Service quoted me for the part and labor. I think I can replace it myself. I found the part on ebay new for under $100.

ASY-HINGE UPR
FR 6009549-00-F

I was able to get the car over to the service center and they were able to take a look at the door hinge and other items for me. Even though I no longer have a warranty, they checked over the car at no cost. Great service experience this time, since I was able to just wait for them to review the car.

Here is what they stated...See the below image red arrows. Service mentioned that the door hinge itselve is fine, but they think that some how the welds and glue where the red arrows are came lose or cracked. They recommend I take it to a body shop as they think the car was in an accident. I told them that 100% never been in an accident, unless that accident happened before Tesla sold me the car as a CPO. I believe that possibly a really bad hit of a pothole may have caused this issue then. But regardless they stated not to worry about it for now, but if it gets louder and worse then I should take it to a body shop. I highly recommend to everyone with an older Model S to watch out for potholes. I am very good at it, but has been some moments where Auto Pilot just ate a pothole before I could take over.

 

[xAgyex]

I have been getting sunroof squeaking and shuttering when closing. I have had the car into Service multiple times and they lubed it up and still the issue continue. So after working with ReelDeal on my replacement Instrument Cluster, they provided me some of their sunroof lube to try out. I am very happy with this, as I believe that the Tesla Service techs probably weren't cleaning the channels first and then lubricate. So if you have the sunroof squeak and or shuttering, please clean out the old lube and dirt and re-lubricate the channels. NOTE: I did not remove the sunroof. No need to do that.

Tesla Model S Preventative Maintenance — ReelDeal EV - EV Car Parts and Accessories
DIY from ReelDeal. Doc is from Tesla Service.

First, open the sunroof all the way.

Then take a cloth or paper towel with a flat head screw driver and CAREFULLY clean out the channels. This will take sometime to do right.

Next, use some compressed air (max 25 PSI) to blow out any dirt you couldn't reach or get to. Also check the water drain holes in the front corners of the channels.

Next get the new lube and some kind of an application device. I used a sponge brush. You can even use a Q-Tip.

This is what it looks like when I finished lubricating the channels. I only used about half of the tube of lube. No need to over lube.

 

[xAgyex]

At 102,428 Miles.

I finally got my hand on the center console. Found it on FB marketplace for $60. Wow what a deal. Had a missing clip or 2 but worked great.

Used this video to help me install it.
Simply clear the yacht floor area and then put a microfiber towel on the arm rest cup holder (so you don't scratch it up). Then simply press it into place.
Image below is from his video...

Ones the console is in place simply push the sides over the clips with a little force and that's it.

 

[rickyjb]

I have been getting sunroof squeaking and shuttering when closing. I have had the car into Service multiple times and they lubed it up and still the issue continue. So after working with ReelDeal on my replacement Instrument Cluster, they provided me some of their sunroof lube to try out. I am very happy with this, as I believe that the Tesla Service techs probably weren't cleaning the channels first and then lubricate. So if you have the sunroof squeak and or shuttering, please clean out the old lube and dirt and re-lubricate the channels. NOTE: I did not remove the sunroof. No need to do that.

Tesla Model S Preventative Maintenance — ReelDeal EV - EV Car Parts and Accessories
DIY from ReelDeal. Doc is from Tesla Service.

First, open the sunroof all the way.

Then take a cloth or paper towel with a flat head screw driver and CAREFULLY clean out the channels. This will take sometime to do right.

Next, use some compressed air (max 25 PSI) to blow out any dirt you couldn't reach or get to. Also check the water drain holes in the front corners of the channels.

Next get the new lube and some kind of an application device. I used a sponge brush. You can even use a Q-Tip.

This is what it looks like when I finished lubricating the channels. I only used about half of the tube of lube. No need to over lube.

ive been wanting to do this for a while now , great post .

 

[xAgyex]

Wow came on to TMC to find info about the new 2021.4.18.2 (i have mcu2 in my MS 2014 AP1) as since the update yesterday, my car hasnt 'slept' once (verified by...

MoLeVIP, thanks and super glad I can be of some help to any and everyone. For some reason I have not received that update. I am still on 2020.48.37.6. Thanks for that heads up. I will stay clear of that new update.

As for my battery, I live in MD, USA and we have cold winters and hot summers. I recommend you drive your car and don't stress about the battery and charging. The only tip I would give is if you ever charge to above 90% just make sure you drive it right away and don't leave it sitting for a long time. Besides that I drive my down to below 5% regularly, especially because on long road tips that is how I get the higher charging rates at super chargers. So even last week I saw 110kW rate when charger at 8% and my battery was very warm after a long drive where I was punching it a lot =D. But most of the time when I am at 20% SOC or so, I get 70 kW rate if I am lucky. Since I have free supercharging I really don't let it bother me. Also, I took my S in recently and they told me that because I have the older S which used the older batteries and older battery modules (yes same as yours and any S older than 2016), the charging rate and is greatly affected by temperature, so in generally I will get lower charge rates. They also said nothing they can do about it for me. I am ok with that answer. Batteries age its a fact we have to live with for now.

Currently at 102,000+ miles my max range at 100% is 245 rated miles, but using the consumption graph found in the car it estimates I can actually drive 207 miles. I have definitely driven well over 200 miles non stop on multiple long road trips. I honestly love going on road trips with her. If you have any other questions at all please PM me.

 

[xAgyex]

After installing the center console, I realized that I could no longer reach the CANN bus plug to connect my CANN to OBD2 cable for data logging to ScanMyTesla app. So now I have rerouted that CANN bus cable to the right side of the center console. It fits snugly in this new area, and all I have to do now is pop open the top of the side trim next to the center console and then plug it in and call it a day. When I am done I can tuck it back in and put the side trim back on.

So here is some of the details you can get from using the CANN bus to OBD2 adaptor with Bluetooth read and ScanMyTesla Android app. I just like knowing this info. See my previous post for more details...2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread

 

[xAgyex]

At 105,273 Miles.

Switched from my summer 21 inch wheels to my all season tires 19 inch wheels. Replaced 19 inch wheel tires for up coming road trip. I really like these 245/45ZR-19 General G-MAX AS-05 XL tires from tire rack. They have been good so far and really long lasting.

Tire Tread Wear Info after 40,000+ miles

====OLD TIRES===============================
Front Driver
6,6,6,6 = 21 in / 40 PSI

Front Passenger
5,6,6,6 = 21 in / 39.5 PSI

Rear Driver
7,7,7,6 = 21 in / 42.5 PSI

Rear Passenger
6,7,7,7 = 21 in / 40 PSI

====NEW TIRES===============================
Front Driver
9,10,10,9 = 19 in / 39.5 PSI

Front Passenger
9,10,10,9 = 19 in / 39.5 PSI

Rear Driver
10,11,11,10 = 19 in / 42.5 PSI

Rear Passenger
10,11,11,10 = 19 in / 42 PSI
==========================================


I also applied some Road Warrior Plus Paint Protection Film. Used both 8 oz bottles to cover the entire front bumper, hood, fenders, and side view mirrors. This stuff is so awesome, easy to apply and works really well to protect against bugs and rick chips.

 

[xAgyex]

Just some tire wear info update...Highly recommend all Tesla owners have two complete sets of wheels and tires, as you can get so much life out of your tires that way. Between July and Sept 2021 my 21 inch wheels were driven about 3,000 miles and had very little wear. Next summer when I put them back on I will put the front wheels on the rear and rear wheels on the front.

 

[Ron Burgundy]

At 102,428 Miles.

I finally got my hand on the center console. Found it on FB marketplace for $60. Wow what a deal. Had a missing clip or 2 but worked great.

Used this video to help me install it.
Simply clear the yacht floor area and then put a microfiber towel on the arm rest cup holder (so you don't scratch it up). Then simply press it into place.
Image below is from his video...

Ones the console is in place simply push the sides over the clips with a little force and that's it.

$60!? What a deal that was! Congrats.
Love the log of events/maint/...

 

[Jasper7821]

Just found this thread, love it. Thank you.

 

[philip295]

Obviously I can't hear your hinge popping noise. However, I had a very loud cracking noise when I lowered my driver's (RH) front door glass. It took me a long time to find it. I traced it to the outer door skin touching the underside of the mirror bracket. I lubricated it by spraying WD 40 and instantly the noise disappeared.
For some reason, mentioning spraying WD40 gets some people annoyed...

 

[xAgyex]

Obviously I can't hear your hinge popping noise. However, I had a very loud cracking noise when I lowered my driver's (RH) front door glass. It took me a long time to find it. I traced it to the outer door skin touching the underside of the mirror bracket. I lubricated it by spraying WD 40 and instantly the noise disappeared.
For some reason, mentioning spraying WD40 gets some people annoyed...

I will look into this as my passenger window is making a weird noise when lowering. I love WD40 always works and helps me find out where issues are coming from. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Jasper7821]

I will look into this as my passenger window is making a weird noise when lowering. I love WD40 always works and helps me find out where issues are coming from. Thanks for the tip.

Obviously I can't hear your hinge popping noise. However, I had a very loud cracking noise when I lowered my driver's (RH) front door glass. It took me a long time to find it. I traced it to the outer door skin touching the underside of the mirror bracket. I lubricated it by spraying WD 40 and instantly the noise disappeared.
For some reason, mentioning spraying WD40 gets some people annoyed...

My car has a little squeak (only once in a while) after the door shuts and the window raises that 1/4" or so. Any suggestion what to lube?

 

[philip295]

My car has a little squeak (only once in a while) after the door shuts and the window raises that 1/4" or so. Any suggestion what to lube?

I would guess at the glass channel rubber seals. It doesn't sound like the same noise that I had.

 

[rickyjb]

I would guess at the glass channel rubber seals. It doesn't sound like the same noise that I had.

yep , i use wd 40 (search for wd 40 specialist high performance silicone lubricating spray) on all the rubber seals every other time i wash the car.

 

[xAgyex]

My car has a little squeak (only once in a while) after the door shuts and the window raises that 1/4" or so. Any suggestion what to lube?

I would defiantly clean the windows channel with a credit card. Then lubricate all the window seals. I use the below product because its super easy to apply and works really well for me. Best of all keeps windows nice and lubricated through winter so they don't stick when it snows or ices up.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant - Protects And Conditions Rubber Seals On Doors, Windows, Hoods, And Trunks​

 

[Jasper7821]

I would defiantly clean the windows channel with a credit card. Then lubricate all the window seals. I use the below product because its super easy to apply and works really well for me. Best of all keeps windows nice and lubricated through winter so they don't stick when it snows or ices up.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant - Protects And Conditions Rubber Seals On Doors, Windows, Hoods, And Trunks​

Great, thank you very much

 

[xAgyex]

At 109,621 Miles.

So after my long road trip I decided to take my MS in to Service Center, because it was wandering (moving left and right own its on slightly, as though it was catching grooves in the road) too much at high speed for my liking...even when it wasn't windy. Additionally, the front driver side makes weird noise when going over any bumps. Also my Louvers didn't open ever on any super charging session, which was strange because the car was always very noisy when super charging. And on one session I opened the Louvers and noticed my charging rate actually went up. I believe that my louvers not opening is causing slow super charging.

Later Service Center contacted me with the below info:
1. Louvers seem to operate fine for them during thermal test. So they don't see a need to replace them at this time.

2. On test drive they were unable to reproduce issues with wandering of the car. But upon inspection of entire suspension front and rear, they found that all rubber bushings appear torn or broken on front and aft fore links (see below) . They recommend I replace them at $1800 total (parts+labor). Then we will see if the issue continues.

I will updated after I received the car back from Service. Over all I am not upset about this work being required, because I have done a lot of road trips and was expecting some suspension work would be needed.

TIP: Do your best to avoid every darn pot hole. Big or small.

 

[rickyjb]

At 109,621 Miles.

So after my long road trip I decided to take my MS in to Service Center, because it was wandering (moving left and right own its on slightly, as though it was catching grooves in the road) too much at high speed for my liking...even when it wasn't windy. Additionally, the front driver side makes weird noise when going over any bumps. Also my Louvers didn't open ever on any super charging session, which was strange because the car was always very noisy when super charging. And on one session I opened the Louvers and noticed my charging rate actually went up. I believe that my louvers not opening is causing slow super charging.

Later Service Center contacted me with the below info:
1. Louvers seem to operate fine for them during thermal test. So they don't see a need to replace them at this time.

2. On test drive they were unable to reproduce issues with wandering of the car. But upon inspection of entire suspension front and rear, they found that all rubber bushings appear torn or broken on front and aft fore links (see below) . They recommend I replace them at $1800 total (parts+labor). Then we will see if the issue continues.

I will updated after I received the car back from Service. Over all I am not upset about this work being required, because I have done a lot of road trips and was expecting some suspension work would be needed.

TIP: Do your best to avoid every darn pot hole. Big or small.

do you have any alternatives to tesla service in your area ?