WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
"Anyway, this was escalated up the chain today."
Did you find out if Tesla has District Service Managers, and did you talk to them??
I have the Associate Service Manager of the region involved.
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"Anyway, this was escalated up the chain today."
Did you find out if Tesla has District Service Managers, and did you talk to them??
I find that when ambient is in single digits I need to manually turn on rear heat to get the cabin almost evenly warm. Front only leaves many very cold drafts.Since it has gone below 0 here I have also noticed this on right thigh. It’s seems to be LCD screen gets very cold and holds the cold longer than anything else in the cabin. On longer drives it goes away. Short drives doesn’t.
Still waiting for my MSLR so I don't have a car to experiment with but, for those with this cold drafts issue, is the setting of the rear passenger heating settings turned on and blowing? I don't know if the rear temp and fan can be controlled from the front screen. On my 2014 BMW there is are independent controls for temp and fan in the rear that when set correctly make a difference in the front. Also, is the storage compartment of the console cold inside? Thanks!I find that when ambient is in single digits I need to manually turn on rear heat to get the cabin almost evenly warm. Front only leaves many very cold drafts.
yeah, interesting that the heat pump makes a lot more noise when pre-heating the car but then quiets down once you open the door and get in. They seem to prioritize quiet once you are in the car.Yes, the rear can be controlled from the front. We are -15 to -18 C this week and with the rear heat off it is totally cozy up front. I wonder if these issues being reported are due to door seals. For sure that would create the cabin temp imbalances people are experiencing. When it is that cold, my heat pump sounds (from out side of the car) like it is going to disassemble itself but in the cabin is very quiet.
My Hummer has a heated windshield. I was unaware any other cars had them. Hopefully the nicer cars do it better than AM General did, as the wires are VERY noticeable - I would say it'd be a major turn off in a vehicle I would drive every day.Wow, your post got me searching around. Never knew heated windshields existed (with the wires and all). That said, I think it's kind of a non-issue with the windshield defroster being so powerful - just kick off the defrost in the app 5-10 minutes before you need to leave, and you're usually good to go.
Just as another data point…..My VW e-Golf had a heated windshield.My Hummer has a heated windshield. I was unaware any other cars had them. Hopefully the nicer cars do it better than AM General did, as the wires are VERY noticeable - I would say it'd be a major turn off in a vehicle I would drive every day.
Ray, did the car have a heat pump ? I am thinking that BEVs without a heat pump need to heat the windshield electrically whereby with a heat pump, the car has a more traditional HVAC system meaning there is a temperature controlled air supply that can be routed to various needs.Just as another data point…..My VW e-Golf had a heated windshield.
Just as another data point…..My VW e-Golf had a heated windshield.
Scroll compressors should not be making these noises. Cavitation inside any pump can make noises as you describe.Yes, the rear can be controlled from the front. We are -15 to -18 C this week and with the rear heat off it is totally cozy up front. I wonder if these issues being reported are due to door seals. For sure that would create the cabin temp imbalances people are experiencing. When it is that cold, my heat pump sounds (from out side of the car) like it is going to disassemble itself but in the cabin is very quiet.
That makes sense. I wondered if it was a scroll compressor and it is definitely while pre-warming the car so it is probably trying to create maximum heat to heat the cabin and more importantly, the battery. I am going to pay more attention as it could be fan noise as well.Scroll compressors should not be making these noises. Cavitation inside any pump can make noises as you describe.
I have the Associate Service Manager of the region involved.
No heat pump in mine. But if I recall correctly, the upgraded model had one.Ray, did the car have a heat pump ? I am thinking that BEVs without a heat pump need to heat the windshield electrically whereby with a heat pump, the car has a more traditional HVAC system meaning there is a temperature controlled air supply that can be routed to various needs.
Was going to add a Dwight Schrute meme here, but our forum is throwing server errors. Alas, for vanished opportunities.
In all seriousness: I would have left the airbag out and gone through with a service appointment, just to press home the point. Unreal.
I worked at Kelloggs in Lancaster as a maintenance mechanic till retirement..That makes sense. I wondered if it was a scroll compressor and it is definitely while pre-warming the car so it is probably trying to create maximum heat to heat the cabin and more importantly, the battery. I am going to pay more attention as it could be fan noise as well.
PS : just noticed your sig. My wife is from Lancaster and we just sold a house we had there last year.
Even smaller world. I worked for Kelloggs in London Ontario from 86 to 96 as a Process Engineer. Yes I am watching it closely.I worked at Kelloggs in Lancaster as a maintenance mechanic till retirement..
Yes, keep an eye and ear on this. Have noticed this sound before? Personally, I would let Tesla know about this for the record or repair under warranty.
Great info. This would be perfect for the new MacBook Pros then, as they are power sippers for general usage (~10W).Not sure where to put this, but in case anyone is interested, the front USB-C ports are 36W and the rear USB-C ports are 27W. I suspect that means 9V 3A max in the rear and 12V 3A max in the front. But, both charged my laptop OK. At least for my Lenovo X1 Carbon, anything at or below 30W is fine, but will slowly discharge the battery while on Zoom calls. The laptop uses more than 30W when in heavy use. Normal use, it will still charge and operate.
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Hmmmmmmmmm. Maybe due to the glass roof transferring heat out, causing temp differentials and thus drafts but...I find that when ambient is in single digits I need to manually turn on rear heat to get the cabin almost evenly warm. Front only leaves many very cold drafts.
I remember an issue a while back in the thread about someone hearing rattles from the A-pillar, and turned out to be a loose speaker connection. I know it's not the exact same area but close-ish.Has anyone experienced a slight creek/rattle coming from what sounds like the top of the windshield on the drivers side?
I just got my model s and there is a faint but constant rattle when the car is moving coming from what sounds like the headliner in the corner where the windshield and the glass meet. I have tried touching/pressing around on the headliner and sun visor area but cannot get the sound to stop so it seems either under the headliner where I can’t touch or it’s actually a noise coming from somewhere else that sounds like coming from a different area.