2022 Tesla X battery dead !! Need help !!

[RodolfoMattei]

My tesla x plaid 2022 have the battery dead completely !!!

The car doesn't open at all, nothing and I've plugged the connector and the wall charger light it's blue, that mean there is no connection with the car.

So, Ive opened the frunk connection the power charger to the both wires at the front of the bump. But the energy was just for to open the frunk, nothing else.

I cant find it the 12v battery, looks like the new models are different.....

And also I've attached the new battery model...I do know I'd it's possible jump that....

I don't know what to do....anyone here had a similar case ?

 

[RSpanner]

oops, that's a 2021 X, may be in the same place as the 2021, maybe not. Model 3 here.

 

[LoudMusic]

There are two service centers near you that open at 8AM Monday. West Palm and Delray.

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www.tesla.com

 

[ngng]

My tesla x plaid 2022 have the battery dead completely !!!

The car doesn't open at all, nothing and I've plugged the connector and the wall charger light it's blue, that mean there is no connection with the car.

So, Ive opened the frunk connection the power charger to the both wires at the front of the bump. But the energy was just for to open the frunk, nothing else.

I cant find it the 12v battery, looks like the new models are different.....

I don't know what to do....anyone here had a similar case ?

12v battery is against the firewall. You can charge it by removing the plastic trim above it. If you need to access the physical battery, you need to remove all the trim and pull the tub. At least on the pre-refresh models:

 

[RodolfoMattei]

oops, that's a 2021 X, may be in the same place as the 2021, maybe not. Model 3 here.

My battery it's like that.....

 

[RodolfoMattei]

12v battery is against the firewall. You can charge it by removing the plastic trim above it. If you need to access the physical battery, you need to remove all the trim and pull the tub. At least on the pre-refresh models:

View attachment 792268

View attachment 792269

It's not like that bro...

 

[Tz00]

The new 12V battery is what you have shown in that second picture. The red cap on the left of it is positive and you can jump it like a normal battery.

See this video (skip to 12:30 in the video)

 

[RodolfoMattei]

The new 12V battery is what you have shown in that second picture. The red cap on the left of it is positive and you can jump it like a normal battery.

See this video (skip to 12:30 in the video)

Perfect bro and works !!

I use that

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/jump-starter/p/noco-1750-amps-lithium-portable-jump-starter/1180529_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:8366688869&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W_Ed9yGO-M6tPJqM5Hp87tJWwvfqO38mlWezQbPxE8WhMYLLgBQngBoCgscQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[sorka]

So it just needed a jump? Was your main battery completely dead or did the 12 volt lithium ion somehow die on it's own without being recharged from the main battery??

 

[Tronguy]

And, chiming in with @sorka here: If the main battery wasn't dead, then there must be a Reason that the 12V battery died.
Yeah, on a new car, occasionally one gets what it technically termed, "infant mortality" when something that shouldn't have left the 12V battery factory did, in fact, leave that factory.

But, there's other things. There's a traction battery -> 12V battery inverter/charger in the car. It might be Not Doing What It's Supposed To Do. There are cables that carry charging current from point A to point B; if one of those cables is loose, same result. Again, this could be a manufacturing defect, either by the cable not getting tightened or the harness having a defect.

Your battery may stay live until the actual cause kills it, again. This isn't like an ICE car where leaving the lights on runs the 12V battery down; in order to get a 12V battery run down, the traction battery usually has to get run down, too. Assuming everything is actually working. Which, obviously, is not the case here.

Finally: In general, with lead acid batteries of any type, fully discharging the battery to the point where it doesn't light a light bulb any more usually means that said battery gets itself damaged in the process. There's six cells, each about two volts (6x2=12) in a 12V car battery. Normally, the cells have some slight variation in charge. When one discharges the overall battery to Zero, at some point, those cells that still have charge start running current through those cells that don't have charge any more, reversing the voltage across the low-charge cell. That often kills the cell, permanently, or damages it so it won't last long. Over the years, I've discovered, typically a month or so after an event like this, that my 12V battery suddenly starts running at 10V (or a bit more) because one of the cells is a deader. The car's battery charger is going to try for 12V, which it isn't going to get to, resulting in overcharging of the remaining working cells.. it doesn't end well.

Get Ye That Car To Tesla For A Thorough Checkup, Under Warranty, And, If They Find Something, Explain That You Had A Zero Voltage Battery. They can check the health of the battery and, if it doesn't look good, replace it.

 

[sorka]

An additional note, the reason this new 12 volt battery is so small is that the newer Tesla's have a direct standby circuit that allows the main battery to drive the 12 volt bus 24/7 without engaging the main contactors. You can normally disconnect the 12v battery and all the systems will continue to stay up and running. You can even drive it like that. The 12v battery is basically just a backup in case the traction battery completely dies.

For your 12v battery to have died, something VERY wrong had to happen.

 

[Tz00]

newer Tesla's have a direct standby circuit that allows the main battery to drive the 12 volt bus 24/7 without engaging the main contactors

Source?

 

[RodolfoMattei]

So it just needed a jump? Was your main battery completely dead or did the 12 volt lithium ion somehow die on it's own without being recharged from the main battery??

1 - yes
2 - yes completely dead, I think the 12v battery also was completely dead because the car had no power at all.
3- the guy plug the positive and negative at the chassi and the car turn on in a second, and them my wall charge connector go back to work.... easy.
4 - the link that ive been sent to you guys here from amazon works pretty well !

 

[RodolfoMattei]

And, chiming in with @sorka here: If the main battery wasn't dead, then there must be a Reason that the 12V battery died.
Yeah, on a new car, occasionally one gets what it technically termed, "infant mortality" when something that shouldn't have left the 12V battery factory did, in fact, leave that factory.

But, there's other things. There's a traction battery -> 12V battery inverter/charger in the car. It might be Not Doing What It's Supposed To Do. There are cables that carry charging current from point A to point B; if one of those cables is loose, same result. Again, this could be a manufacturing defect, either by the cable not getting tightened or the harness having a defect.

Your battery may stay live until the actual cause kills it, again. This isn't like an ICE car where leaving the lights on runs the 12V battery down; in order to get a 12V battery run down, the traction battery usually has to get run down, too. Assuming everything is actually working. Which, obviously, is not the case here.

Finally: In general, with lead acid batteries of any type, fully discharging the battery to the point where it doesn't light a light bulb any more usually means that said battery gets itself damaged in the process. There's six cells, each about two volts (6x2=12) in a 12V car battery. Normally, the cells have some slight variation in charge. When one discharges the overall battery to Zero, at some point, those cells that still have charge start running current through those cells that don't have charge any more, reversing the voltage across the low-charge cell. That often kills the cell, permanently, or damages it so it won't last long. Over the years, I've discovered, typically a month or so after an event like this, that my 12V battery suddenly starts running at 10V (or a bit more) because one of the cells is a deader. The car's battery charger is going to try for 12V, which it isn't going to get to, resulting in overcharging of the remaining working cells.. it doesn't end well.

Get Ye That Car To Tesla For A Thorough Checkup, Under Warranty, And, If They Find Something, Explain That You Had A Zero Voltage Battery. They can check the health of the battery and, if it doesn't look good, replace it.

I will thx for the explanation !

 

[sorka]

1 - yes
2 - yes completely dead, I think the 12v battery also was completely dead because the car had no power at all.
3- the guy plug the positive and negative at the chassi and the car turn on in a second, and them my wall charge connector go back to work.... easy.
4 - the link that ive been sent to you guys here from amazon works pretty well !

So yea, after the main battery dies, the 12v battery will eventually die too eventually power shedding everything but control of the BCM and then it will finally die.

So the real question is do you know why your main battery died? What was the SOC the last time time you parked it or unplugged it and how long was it parked unplugged before you were unable to gain entry?

 

[RodolfoMattei]

An additional note, the reason this new 12 volt battery is so small is that the newer Tesla's have a direct standby circuit that allows the main battery to drive the 12 volt bus 24/7 without engaging the main contactors. You can normally disconnect the 12v battery and all the systems will continue to stay up and running. You can even drive it like that. The 12v battery is basically just a backup in case the traction battery completely dies.

For your 12v battery to have died, something VERY wrong had to happen.

thx man, I will check at tesla service center

 

[RodolfoMattei]

So yea, after the main battery dies, the 12v battery will eventually die too eventually power shedding everything but control of the BCM and then it will finally die.

So the real question is do you know why your main battery died? What was the SOC the last time time you parked it or unplugged it and how long was it parked unplugged before you were unable to gain entry?

Well, let me explain.

I was on my way back from Orlando, and the mile marker was zero and there were 10 miles to go, to get home. I kept driving until I got to my house, I drove the car into the garage, and I didn't put the charging cable right away, after 2 hours when I went to put the cable in, the car was completely dead. When I put the cable, nothing happened, the wall charger connector light remained blue because there was no communication with the car.

 

[sorka]

Well, let me explain.

I was on my way back from Orlando, and the mile marker was zero and there were 10 miles to go, to get home. I kept driving until I got to my house, I drove the car into the garage, and I didn't put the charging cable right away, after 2 hours when I went to put the cable in, the car was completely dead. When I put the cable, nothing happened, the wall charger connector light remained blue because there was no communication with the car.

That would explain it!!!!

 

[RodolfoMattei]

That would explain it!!!!

But @Tronguy , I think he is right ! I need to go to Tesla and check if my battery has been compromised.

 

[sorka]

But @Tronguy , I think he is right ! I need to go to Tesla and check if my battery has been compromised.

It's fine. It shut down with 4kwh of anti brick buffer.