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Discussion in 'Model S' started by artsci, May 28, 2017.
Do you have UHFS? Isn't above that where the amp is?
While getting ready to install the kit in my Model S this morning, I thought it would be nice to pair the remote controls with the switcher box while sitting comfortably at my kitchen table. This seemed to work (unless pairing memory is lost without power to the switcher box): Powering the switcher box with the 12 volt remote control battery (27A) (for this I used the set up in the pictures below) and pressing the learning button (red LED in the switcher box stays lit), then pressing the D button on the remotes (red LED blinks and goes off). Pushing the D button then lights up the red LED. Reassemble the box and the remotes and hopefully all is well.
Just a note, any 433mhz remote control can be used with the switch. Also, you don't have to use the "D" button, you can use any button during the learning step to program the switch.
Also, other 1 channel 433mhz remotes like below will also work, if you want something different or uses button cell batteries:
US $4.97 8% OFF|2018 New 1CH RF Transmitter ,433MHz 1 CH Channel Wireless RF Relay Remote Control Switch -in Switches from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Also, if anyone wants to add an access hole for the pairing button to their case:
Installation finished! I am happy to report everything works great! For me, 2016 Model S (facelift) AP1, it was moderately difficult. The Hardest part was freeing up enough cable from the MCU to plug into the switcher box were I wanted to place it. Actually, that was 99% of the difficulty.
Using the canbus kit is great. Please enlighten me if I am wrong, but if using the menu hold technique to switch cameras, the remote controls are really not necessary? I could not actually make the remotes change anything...
I even used the 12 volt power terminals to power my beloved Pedestrian Horn.
Thank you all for this great project and for all the great advice. Next, the Model X, but I will probably wait for some detailed video instructions. Yeah, I am a chicken.
I'd like to see where you put the camera on the facelift bumper and how you did it, since it's not removable.
I bent the bracket of the camera and slightly enlarged the existing mounting hole of the bracket. This allowed me to reuse one of the screws from the plate bracket and mount to an existing screw location. PA doesn’t require a front plate, so this will likely only work if you don’t have your front plate holder installed.
I have a post on one of these threads showing pictures how I mounted mine on my '17. In the grille, its attached to the top of the bumper and recessed to the rear. I used the two front license plate mount bolt holes that tucked back up into the rear of the grille.I Gooped the camera on to a piece of flat soft plastic I had and drilled holes in the ends to match the front plate mount that I had removed 5 minutes after getting the car home. Then with the camera mounted on the plastic, I bolted it on the car. This allows me to remove the camera if I need to - which I don't.
I don't have pictures though of how I installed the camera on the X. The X had the law license plate mount that protruded a bit from the front and just about an inch or so above the lower splitter. I removed The Law and put it in a vise and bent it up and out, so when reinstalled it, was higher than before. I tested the height of The Law to insure it was higher and didn't interfere with the view of the camera. Then used heavy Velcro (like you showed us in Post #39) to mount the camera. on the lower splitter.
Its interesting how that with the camera mounted on the S, tucked back towards the grille and on the upper part of the bumper (above the splitter), the camera's field of view is almost the same as with the same camera mounted on the X's splitter tucked back to the edge of the paint of the splitter.
Here's what it looks like on my '17 S
Pairing memory is not lost when power is removed. I installed mine last week and I connected the + and - to the same wires that power the cigarette lighter so there will be no additional load(vampire drain) to the 12v battery when the car is off.
Just used some automotive trim foam adhesive. I may have to add a shim of some sort to get the view exactly what I want.
Oh... My remotes do in fact work and function as the menu button does.
For anyone that has installed theirs in a Model X (AP2.5), are the install instructions pretty much the same as in this video of the install on a Model S? Thanks!
Yes. Go backwards in this thread until you find my post about installing in the first X that anyone has reported. Instructions are the same, except threading the cable from the fender out towards the door. The trick is to remove the sleeve on the cable housing/connector to thread it through a small hole, then re-assemble.
This applies to the S as well. (I'll show it if I ever get around to editing this darn video... hopefully tonight!)
While I have not installed my camera and switcher yet I did want to call out an issue with V9 SW that you may not have noticed and could cause some confusion:
I noticed today that if the car is in reverse and the camera is showing while backing, any change in the display will remove the camera popup. So for example you press the app icon or do something with the music. I find this to be unsatisfactory and will report it to Tesla via the feedback. I think if the car is in reverse the rear camera should ALWAYS display.
I just bought a bunch of these one-channel, 433mHz remote buttons to use for both my front camera switch and my pedestrian horn (see link in my sig). I can mount these in discrete areas so they're always ready to use without fumbling for a remote control in the console or yacht floor area. I'll post again when I get them and let you know how well they work. Or if you can't wait and want one yourself: 1 channel 433mhx remote button
I plan to install them on the upper inside "roof" of the cubby hole/drawer area so they're out of sight, but easy to reach.
If you have a few extra of these one button remotes (and can instruct me how to program them to my pedestrian horn) I would love to buy some off you!
I added a shim to angle my front camera just right.... here's the view:
Sure thing. Very easy to program both the front camera switch and the pedestrian horn. Both devices can learn the codes for several remote controls, so it won't clobber the existing remotes you have programed for both (or homelink).
I'll let you know when I get and test them.
Oh, awesome thanks!
I was able to find it and I've linked it below for convenience.
Also, pairing instructions for the box:
Mods: Is there any way to make a wiki page for this since all the information is scattered throughout this thread and makes it difficult to find?
If anyone is looking to purchase a camera switch kit, I have an unused, brand new spare unit that I no longer need. Please PM me if you're interested in purchasing.
On an unrelated note, during installation, I came across an unused, male, two-pin connector with green and black wires hanging loose in my driver side kick panel - does anyone know what this connection is for?
New AP2 install video finally uploaded! It's long (I didn't do a great job editing :/), but I broke it down into hopefully helpful bookmarks:
01:10 - Remove Frunk Trim
02:48 - Fish Front Camera Wire
06:13 - Removing the HSD Connector Housing
06:40 - Fish HSD Cable Through Door Panel
08:05 - Frunk Cable Management
09:36 - Mount Front Camera
10:34 - Route HSD Through Door Gasket
12:40 - Remove Glovebox
17:03 - Route HSD Cable Over APE
18:40 - Install CAN Bus Interface
20:32 - Remove MCU Cubby
22:05 - Connect +V GND R to Camera Switch
24:06 - Connect HSD Wires to Camera Switcher
28:05 - Install Remote 27A Battery
29:49 - Pair Remote to Camera Switcher
30:34 - Add Remote to Homelink
32:04 - Reinstall Glovebox
35:12 - Reinstall Interior Trim
36:35 - Reinstall Frunk Trim
Thanks @robby for the help filming the CAN Bus Kit segment!