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Vendor 3m Crystalline Window Tint

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We are proud to offer the best window tint available!
  • The ultimate in high technology, offering clear film technology with outstanding heat rejection to create the perfect film for your Tesla
  • Maintains car's original appearance: lightly tinted films allow 40% to 70% of the sunlight into your car
  • Improves comfort: rejects up to 97% of the sun's IR rays and rejects up to 60% of the heat coming through your windows
  • No signal interference: Crystalline films are non-metallized
  • Interior protection: blocks up to 99.9% of harmful UV rays to reduce fading of your car's interior
  • UV/Skin protection: provides SPF of over 1000, a Skin Cancer Foundation recommended product
  • Never turns purple: guaranteed for the life of the film

Here is a link for more info.


Here are samples of the two shades we use.
DSC02800_zpscdc010db.jpg


DSC02809_zpsaa8db7f3.jpg


This is the install being done on the windshield using 70%.
DSC02827_zpsa3f4031c.jpg



Here are some before and after pics. Windshield and Panoramic Roof received 70%.All other windows received 40%.

BEFORE:
DSC02781_zps47737bfb.jpg

AFTER:
DSC02838_zps5575091d.jpg

BEFORE:
DSC02789_zpscbd100f1.jpg

AFTER:
DSC02835_zps6692efda.jpg

BEFORE:
DSC02790_zps04db6013.jpg

AFTER:
DSC02836_zps7a0f668a.jpg
 
I would caution anyone putting 3M Crystalline tint on a Model S because the film reacts badly with the factory finish/coating on the rear window.

I absolutely LOVE all the work you do on Model S's out there. I wish I could learn more about audio installs you've done, but when it comes to tint, I did my research and came to the same conclusion that 3M Crystalline was top of the line and the film I wanted.

We are proud to offer the best window tint available!
  • The ultimate in high technology, offering clear film technology with outstanding heat rejection to create the perfect film for your Tesla
  • Maintains car's original appearance: lightly tinted films allow 40% to 70% of the sunlight into your car
  • Improves comfort: rejects up to 97% of the sun's IR rays and rejects up to 60% of the heat coming through your windows
  • No signal interference: Crystalline films are non-metallized
  • Interior protection: blocks up to 99.9% of harmful UV rays to reduce fading of your car's interior
  • UV/Skin protection: provides SPF of over 1000, a Skin Cancer Foundation recommended product

I don't doubt any of of that, which is why I originally went with it. While this all looks good on paper, the reality is that it has an unfortunate cosmetic appearance on the rear window.

  • Never turns purple: guaranteed for the life of the film

And that's the killer. It actually does look purple. Every Model S I've seen with 3M Crystalline tint looks purple on the rear window, and that is not a good look. Purple-looking tint = makes it look like a horrible tint job. Especially bad on a car that costs $100k. I paid a lot for this film, only to have it taken off later and I replaced it with a different manufacturers film.

The first two photos were my car with the 3M Crystalline. The 3rd photo are TSportline's two cars, which both have 3M Crystalline and also both exhibit the purple rear window. The 4th photo are two other MS owners with this tint and both purple. I had mine replaced with a non 3M film (madico charcool to be exact, wasn't chosen for any particular reason other than to make it "non-purple").

Two photos of my P85 w\ 3M Crystalline 40:
purple01.jpg


purple02.jpg


TSportline's two MS with 3M Crystalline 40:
purple03.JPG


Two more owners with 3M Crystalline 40:
purple04.jpg


Replaced my 3M Crystalline 40 with Madico Charcool 20%:
madico20.jpg


Now my car looks great and I have a dark black rear window without that purplish look (which looked particularly horrible when paired with black paint).

So basically I have a few questions. With all your experience, have you seen this effect before? Does every single MS you do with 3M Crystalline 40 look like this too? Why does it happen? While the film is supposed to be very high quality, it certainly gives off a horrible look and makes it look cheap. I basically wasted $600 on this film just to have it ripped off and replaced. Is there anything that could be done to fix this? The reason I ask that is because I read somewhere of one other owner actually double-tinting. Ie doing one layer of a non-3M tint so that the "non-purple-look" gets established, and then putting 3M Crystalline 40 on top of that tint so that you get all the good qualities of that technology.

Anywho, sorry for the long post. Obviously you can tell I was a little aggravated by having to go through this on my car and wasting money so just trying to learn more about it and help educate others about the potential cosmetic problem the film has (purple tint+black car...I felt embarrassed driving around in it until I had the film replaced with something else!). If you're new to 3M Crystalline as an installer and you haven't done any MSs with it yet, hopefully this post helps you learn more about this problem too.

-Dennis
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Cowby
Nice! I think 70% on the windshield and 40% on all the interior glass surfaces would keep the cabin cool on bright sunny days.

I had 40% Crystalline installed on the sides and rear the first weekend after taking delivery in June. I only did a few commutes without the tint, but the heat reduction was immediately noticeable in an AZ summer.

I'm considering getting the windshield done before it heats back up -- it's technically not legal in AZ, but 70% is not noticeable. I held off originally since it wasn't clear back then if the windshield cracking issues had been resolved and didn't want to have the windshield crack and have to replace the tint in just a few months. But no cracks after 9k+ miles and very few reports of cracking on post-April production...
 
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Reactions: markn455
I had 40% Crystalline installed on the sides and rear the first weekend after taking delivery in June. I only did a few commutes without the tint, but the heat reduction was immediately noticeable in an AZ summer.

I'm considering getting the windshield done before it heats back up -- it's technically not legal in AZ, but 70% is not noticeable. I held off originally since it wasn't clear back then if the windshield cracking issues had been resolved and didn't want to have the windshield crack and have to replace the tint in just a few months. But no cracks after 9k+ miles and very few reports of cracking on post-April production...

Did yours turn purple?
 
Both front and rear glass on MS have a unique material and coating which is purple in hue. Crystalline, which is not ceramic, and Ceramic tints tend to enhance that illusion. By switching to a non-ceramic tint, like the madico charcoal, one loses considerable amount of heat rejection and IR rejection. Not sure which one is better. Taking a few steps down in material performance and quality vs. getting the "look" you're after. Either way, the owner should make that decision. I just wanted to clarify that the tint isn't making the glass purple, the glass is already purple, crystalline and ceramic tints just embellish that visual hue because of their chemistry and technology.
 
I just got my Model S tinted this past week. I went with 3M crystalline for the side windows and a ceramic tint (the shop had Solar Gard) for the rear window. I do not notice a purple hue with the ceramic tint. I actually asked the shop to apply small pieces of each side by side for comparison.
 
I have the 3M Crystalline in the side and rear windows...you're right, on the rear window there's a strong purple/orange hue when you catch it in the right sunlight, but I really don't mind it. Until I read this thread, I never associated it with a 'cheap' tint. My car is grey, so it's less emphasized I guess, but either way, I don't mind it, especially for the benefits it provides....the car still gets hot when it's parked outside all day, but it cools to 70 is just a few minutes, and stays there without having to work quite as hard. Here's a photo I took that really shows the coloration.

photo.JPG
 
Just had my 2013 MultiRed windshield tinted by MasterShield in Palm Desert - Previously I had A Blue 80 Pinnacle on the windshield - the problem for me was it always seemed to have a slight haze to it, my wife concurs - I picked up a rock and it damaged the windshield badly enough to require replacement, which was done by Tesla Palm Desert (Cathedral City) - I then looked into retinting with the A Blue 80 and also investigated the 3M Crystaline 70 - from my perspective the 3m was much clearer, so I went with that - it was a little more expensive but the clarity is worth it - the folks at MasterShield did a great job - thanks Liz and team - I couldn't be happier - PS - they also do Xpel wraps at competitive prices -
 
70 percent on the windshield will help a lot with heat rejection with crystalline. There's not really a legal/effective front windshield film out there, but as far as clarity and effectiveness, a 70/40 split with crystalline is great.. It's almost Az summer, tint as much as you feel comfortable with! (legally)


As far as

I had 40% Crystalline installed on the sides and rear the first weekend after taking delivery in June. I only did a few commutes without the tint, but the heat reduction was immediately noticeable in an AZ summer.

I'm considering getting the windshield done before it heats back up -- it's technically not legal in AZ, but 70% is not noticeable. I held off originally since it wasn't clear back then if the windshield cracking issues had been resolved and didn't want to have the windshield crack and have to replace the tint in just a few months. But no cracks after 9k+ miles and very few reports of cracking on post-April production...

- - - Updated - - -

It should be cooler with the crystalline as well. I notice a difference in clarity and effectiveness, switching from blue 80 to crystalline.

Just had my 2013 MultiRed windshield tinted by MasterShield in Palm Desert - Previously I had A Blue 80 Pinnacle on the windshield - the problem for me was it always seemed to have a slight haze to it, my wife concurs - I picked up a rock and it damaged the windshield badly enough to require replacement, which was done by Tesla Palm Desert (Cathedral City) - I then looked into retinting with the A Blue 80 and also investigated the 3M Crystaline 70 - from my perspective the 3m was much clearer, so I went with that - it was a little more expensive but the clarity is worth it - the folks at MasterShield did a great job - thanks Liz and team - I couldn't be happier - PS - they also do Xpel wraps at competitive prices -
 
let me say a few words ...

I would caution anyone putting 3M Crystalline tint on a Model S because the film reacts badly with the factory finish/coating on the rear window.

I absolutely LOVE all the work you do on Model S's out there. I wish I could learn more about audio installs you've done, but when it comes to tint, I did my research and came to the same conclusion that 3M Crystalline was top of the line and the film I wanted.



I don't doubt any of of that, which is why I originally went with it. While this all looks good on paper, the reality is that it has an unfortunate cosmetic appearance on the rear window.



And that's the killer. It actually does look purple. Every Model S I've seen with 3M Crystalline tint looks purple on the rear window, and that is not a good look. Purple-looking tint = makes it look like a horrible tint job. Especially bad on a car that costs $100k. I paid a lot for this film, only to have it taken off later and I replaced it with a different manufacturers film.

The first two photos were my car with the 3M Crystalline. The 3rd photo are TSportline's two cars, which both have 3M Crystalline and also both exhibit the purple rear window. The 4th photo are two other MS owners with this tint and both purple. I had mine replaced with a non 3M film (madico charcool to be exact, wasn't chosen for any particular reason other than to make it "non-purple").


Replaced my 3M Crystalline 40 with Madico Charcool 20%:


Now my car looks great and I have a dark black rear window without that purplish look (which looked particularly horrible when paired with black paint).

So basically I have a few questions. With all your experience, have you seen this effect before? Does every single MS you do with 3M Crystalline 40 look like this too? Why does it happen? While the film is supposed to be very high quality, it certainly gives off a horrible look and makes it look cheap. I basically wasted $600 on this film just to have it ripped off and replaced. Is there anything that could be done to fix this? The reason I ask that is because I read somewhere of one other owner actually double-tinting. Ie doing one layer of a non-3M tint so that the "non-purple-look" gets established, and then putting 3M Crystalline 40 on top of that tint so that you get all the good qualities of that technology.

Anywho, sorry for the long post. Obviously you can tell I was a little aggravated by having to go through this on my car and wasting money so just trying to learn more about it and help educate others about the potential cosmetic problem the film has (purple tint+black car...I felt embarrassed driving around in it until I had the film replaced with something else!). If you're new to 3M Crystalline as an installer and you haven't done any MSs with it yet, hopefully this post helps you learn more about this problem too.

-Dennis

Hello Guys I wanted to chime into this thread to provide some information that will clarify a lot of questions.
Typically *purple tint* has always been associated with *cheap tint* mainly because when the window film generation began the film was colored with a Dye. With time the Dye failed to the UV and heat from our Sun. The effects caused the film to turn purple and in some cases a red/purple color. Technology has come a long way since then and now only if you use a DYE based film (most standard films) you will typically not have to worry about film turning into a purple mess on your windows. Films made of carbon or ceramic are now year ahead of ever turning purple since the color is from a natural pigment and not a DYE. Madico uses an IR absorbing DYE for its High end Wincos film and its Charcool film is a higher quality Dye based film with about a 5 to 10 year lifespan.

Crystalline is a completely new innovation as 3M is a true pioneer in engineering especially in the window film industry. Crystalline is made of over 200 layers sandwiched together creating a *trap* for light and heat within its layers. All of this in something no thicker than a post it note. The purple sheen associated with Crystalline is not a bad purple. It is actually another 3M innovation. This special coating does something very special. This coating is the barrier that protects us from the IR/UV rays that account for many skin type diseases, reactions, and blemishes. This coating is Proprietary and unique to 3M crystalline only.

Yes the purple may not be appealing to many ... so there is answer ... you could have your vehicle layered with 3M Colorstable (much better product than Wincos Charcool) and then have a layer of lets say 60 or 70 Crystalline on top of that. I took a little while for the unique color of the Crystalline to be on my like list and now when I see cars on the road and I see the unique 3M Crystalline color I know that the person driving that car made a great decision. So if the color is an issue but you want the best protection on the market ... ask your installer to do Colorstable first then Crystalline. Either way your 3M authorized installer should be able to help you with this. By no means lay a Dye film or anything other than a ceramic or Carbon base film before applying Crystalline as the inferior dye film will shorten the life span of your crystalline install.

If you have any questions please feel free to pm me.

Note to the OP did not mean to intrude just noticed no one has taken the time to share the correct information about the products you sell and or represent. I believe it is our duty as representatives of the brand to educate the public in order to make a good decision.

Cheers.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Pkmmte
Hello Guys I wanted to chime into this thread to provide some information that will clarify a lot of questions.
Typically *purple tint* has always been associated with *cheap tint* mainly because when the window film generation began the film was colored with a Dye. With time the Dye failed to the UV and heat from our Sun. The effects caused the film to turn purple and in some cases a red/purple color. Technology has come a long way since then and now only if you use a DYE based film (most standard films) you will typically not have to worry about film turning into a purple mess on your windows. Films made of carbon or ceramic are now year ahead of ever turning purple since the color is from a natural pigment and not a DYE. Madico uses an IR absorbing DYE for its High end Wincos film and its Charcool film is a higher quality Dye based film with about a 5 to 10 year lifespan.

Crystalline is a completely new innovation as 3M is a true pioneer in engineering especially in the window film industry. Crystalline is made of over 200 layers sandwiched together creating a *trap* for light and heat within its layers. All of this in something no thicker than a post it note. The purple sheen associated with Crystalline is not a bad purple. It is actually another 3M innovation. This special coating does something very special. This coating is the barrier that protects us from the IR/UV rays that account for many skin type diseases, reactions, and blemishes. This coating is Proprietary and unique to 3M crystalline only.

Yes the purple may not be appealing to many ... so there is answer ... you could have your vehicle layered with 3M Colorstable (much better product than Wincos Charcool) and then have a layer of lets say 60 or 70 Crystalline on top of that. I took a little while for the unique color of the Crystalline to be on my like list and now when I see cars on the road and I see the unique 3M Crystalline color I know that the person driving that car made a great decision. So if the color is an issue but you want the best protection on the market ... ask your installer to do Colorstable first then Crystalline. Either way your 3M authorized installer should be able to help you with this. By no means lay a Dye film or anything other than a ceramic or Carbon base film before applying Crystalline as the inferior dye film will shorten the life span of your crystalline install.

If you have any questions please feel free to pm me.

Note to the OP did not mean to intrude just noticed no one has taken the time to share the correct information about the products you sell and or represent. I believe it is our duty as representatives of the brand to educate the public in order to make a good decision.

Cheers.

FWIW I never questioned the quality of the film nor its technology. I kept the film on the side windows and only replaced the back. For me, I did not want a "purple looking" rear window on a black car which to me "looked" a cheap tint even though I personally knew it was a great brand.

I had heard about some people layering a different tint first and then the crystalline on top of it but I didn't want to waste money if that didn't work and there just wasn't enough data I could find on the layering subject. Typically I thought that was "not recommended".

The odd part is that my side windows do *not* look purple with the crystalline. The only reason I would assume it looks that way on the rear is just some coating that must be on the rear window but not on the sides and that coating must have a way of amplifying the color of the crystalline.

Like you, I can easily spot cars with crystalline due to the color. Particular on the rear windows of Mercedes and Tesla's. I'm just with the side whose opinion is that the color itself doesn't look good but that's obviously very subjective. Some people can't even notice it at all. I guess I'm particular about things like that.

Still a great product. If I were to do it all over I'd either do the layering or consider photosync. I did not go the photosync route before because it's too new and once again I just couldn't find any real data on it. But the crystalline I could find loads of high reviews all over the net and I'm all about the technology of it. Just make it darker lol
 
FWIW I never questioned the quality of the film nor its technology. I kept the film on the side windows and only replaced the back. For me, I did not want a "purple looking" rear window on a black car which to me "looked" a cheap tint even though I personally knew it was a great brand.

I had heard about some people layering a different tint first and then the crystalline on top of it but I didn't want to waste money if that didn't work and there just wasn't enough data I could find on the layering subject. Typically I thought that was "not recommended".

The odd part is that my side windows do *not* look purple with the crystalline. The only reason I would assume it looks that way on the rear is just some coating that must be on the rear window but not on the sides and that coating must have a way of amplifying the color of the crystalline.

Like you, I can easily spot cars with crystalline due to the color. Particular on the rear windows of Mercedes and Tesla's. I'm just with the side whose opinion is that the color itself doesn't look good but that's obviously very subjective. Some people can't even notice it at all. I guess I'm particular about things like that.

Still a great product. If I were to do it all over I'd either do the layering or consider photosync. I did not go the photosync route before because it's too new and once again I just couldn't find any real data on it. But the crystalline I could find loads of high reviews all over the net and I'm all about the technology of it. Just make it darker lol

I just want to make sure no one took this personal ... My intent was to use what was already here and try to clarify any misunderstanding that could be perceived from not understanding how technology has changed. Some of us here are up to date and some are not .. this was to help everyone as a whole but I do apologize if I referenced your posting to directly.

My Main concern is that Dealers and installers of this product should have been able to explain the product and how its going to look and perform pre install so the customer has a good idea o how it is going to look and perform after the install and eliminate any surprises. The reason the rear window looks more *purple* than the rest is all in the viewing angle. The different angles, lighting conditions and film shade chosen will show the coating more or less. Every case is different. Layering is ok as long as the films used are both of great quality and the window seals permit an extra layer of film with no issues.

I hope this clarifies what the intent was and my apologies if anyone took this personal or was offended. That was not the case. If there is any info I can help with please feel free to PM me.

Cheers
 
Just had my 2013 MultiRed windshield tinted by MasterShield in Palm Desert - Previously I had A Blue 80 Pinnacle on the windshield - the problem for me was it always seemed to have a slight haze to it, my wife concurs - I picked up a rock and it damaged the windshield badly enough to require replacement, which was done by Tesla Palm Desert (Cathedral City) - I then looked into retinting with the A Blue 80 and also investigated the 3M Crystaline 70 - from my perspective the 3m was much clearer, so I went with that - it was a little more expensive but the clarity is worth it - the folks at MasterShield did a great job - thanks Liz and team - I couldn't be happier - PS - they also do Xpel wraps at competitive prices -

Thank You Man123
We here at MasterShield are here to help with answers to your questions regarding Window Films and Paint Protection. Liz is always here to show you how we can help you and your Tesla. Block the Heat, Protect you Paint, keep your Tesla Cool and looking New everyday. We can install Crystalline on your windows and Windshield. We are your Tesla information store.