That is a fussy little bugger, isn't it? I have to use my Coil glasses, although that doesn't help my shaking sausage-fingers.
Can't see anything in that...As far as getting root is concerned, here's my "progress":
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It was an update, not a very useful update, but an update none the less... I haven't gotten anywhere useful as far as getting root is concerned, but am still working on it... Even if I had, I wouldn't be posting details of how it was achieved just proof that it was achieved.
It basically is stating "I haven't fallen off a cliff, been run over by a bus, or been kidnapped by Tesla..."
... yet...
ElectricLove
Member
Excellent, I've got my salvage Model S off the auction block here and going through a similar process! I'll post more photos and explorations later after I get to spend some time with her...
Current status is; replaced pyrofuse, jumped HVIL safety loop, will turn on and go into D/R but will not charge... RED light and locked port... So sad, it was "almost" easy (electrically)...
If any of you guys who were mentioning airbags have any side-curtain airbags, let me know! I also need them... But that is the only ones I need, the rest are intact...
Current status is; replaced pyrofuse, jumped HVIL safety loop, will turn on and go into D/R but will not charge... RED light and locked port... So sad, it was "almost" easy (electrically)...
If any of you guys who were mentioning airbags have any side-curtain airbags, let me know! I also need them... But that is the only ones I need, the rest are intact...
ElectricLove
Member
Definitely no damage to the ESS, damage was relatively light and on side, did not effect skirts, only doors and fenders (and at that, only barely). Wiring appears to be all intact, the vehicle WILL go into drive/reverse and move on its own power but not charge.... I'm thinking a fault in the HVIL loop that goes to DC/DC, Chargers and HVAC perhaps? Potentially these symptoms could be from a leakage to ground on that ESS-BUS which is causing it to turn off...
If I could get root access I'd be able to diagnose it really quickly, so far I can establish communications with everything but can't get passed finding the information needed to access via SSH, I need to figure that part out to really be successful with this car (especially when Tesla will refuse servicing unless I have it go through their inspection)...
If I could get root access I'd be able to diagnose it really quickly, so far I can establish communications with everything but can't get passed finding the information needed to access via SSH, I need to figure that part out to really be successful with this car (especially when Tesla will refuse servicing unless I have it go through their inspection)...
ElectricLove, I have an anonymous source of information I'd like to share with you via PM, but the forum is telling me I can't send you a PM.
ElectricLove
Member
@ElectricLove, without diag mode, I think it would be difficult to find out the root cause of that. If possible, bring down the battery and check its wattage. Did you also check all the fuses?
ElectricLove
Member
ElectricLove
Member
All fuses were tested fine, except for F92, the 30A fuse inline with pyrofuse, that fuse is blown... Going to jump this fuse and pyrofuse and test again today after 12V battery is charged back up... I'm wondering though, anyone know where the Rear safety cut loop is?
Just behind the left rear door, ahead of the left fender well. We're advised to use a circular saw to cut into the aluminum of the rear door frame to sever the connection.
That said, earlier cars didn't have them, this was introduced in 2014 and later cars. Open the left-rear door and you should see a sticker attached to the car's body (not the door) that tells first responders where to cut.
ElectricLove
Member
Oh, so if the first responder doesn't cut through the body to cut the loop, it would still be intact, yes?
ElectricLove
Member
So, I think I've got the symptoms more "nailed down", there is actually no drive system fault in place (other than Airbag warning and Parking Assistance warning, both sensible) UNTIL I press open charge port and then as soon as I press "unlock charge port" there are a few clicks and the system "goes down", more errors pop up that pertain the drivability of the vehicle and also declare that it won't charge... Something is happening when the car goes to initialize the charging process, this something is blocking the car from charging and also making the car go into a protected mode altogether...
Anyone with ideas to try? I'm sorta stuck now with trying to figure this out...
Anyone with ideas to try? I'm sorta stuck now with trying to figure this out...
I would say that *should* be still intact, provided that the impact didn't occur on the driver's side rear of the car. If it did, there could have been some damage that pulled the loop loose or severed it..
In other news:
Looking at some wiring diagrams my hunch that a lot of faults thrown actually just surround the DCDC converter not working seems to be accurate, only way to find out is by actually fixing the DCDC problem.
That said, getting the touchscreen video cable working would be really helpful for that, so I have to wait for some connector tabs to arrive in the mail.
Looking at some wiring diagrams my hunch that a lot of faults thrown actually just surround the DCDC converter not working seems to be accurate, only way to find out is by actually fixing the DCDC problem.
That said, getting the touchscreen video cable working would be really helpful for that, so I have to wait for some connector tabs to arrive in the mail.
ElectricLove
Member
I put mine into factory mode as well... Revealing a lot of 12V problems, but the battery is already jumped out with some solid lithium ones... I'm thinking the DC/DC on mine is also having problems? Charger is seeing less than 12V from it and I think this is the problem my car is having... Checked all HVIL points and secured everything, also checked isolation resistance (both manually and in diag screens) which is fine... I did, briefly though, see the 12V battery being charged by the car (according to diag it was pushing 20-30A into the battery)...
