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DC to DC converter does not go bad that fast.. check your pyrofuse. I have seen incidents where this fuse can cause such alerts..
I have a factory new pyrofuse installed, and the dcdc converter is literally not getting a hwid assigned to it upon boot. There's something to troubleshoot there, what specifically I won't know until I fix my video cable. (Which I have been working on, but nothing successful yet).
ElectricLove
Member
I did use a good pyrofuse...
YAY! As of last night I got it charging again, it was a combination of 3 things happening simultaneously that I just finally got solved all at the same time:
1. Insufficient 12V power (charging circuit 12V was dropping to 11V-ish upon charge port opening); removed the standard 12V battery (I'm sure its been said a million times but HORRIBLE location), used jumpers to a Lithium 12.8V pack and also used my 10A 12V charger, all simultaneously to really "juice" it!
2. HVIL problem; jumped out the old pyrofuse previously, found the 30A fuse in-line with pyro was also blown, so now I jumped both out, I just got replacement pyro so I installed this last night (just plugged it in at least) but left that small portion of the circuit jumped out.
3. Cut wire loop was inappropriately previously repaired/wired... They wired from 1-4 and 2-3, no idea why the vehicle was still able to drive off the trailer when it was towed to me (though very thankful since I don't have a forklift lying around!); put in a replacement loop (which is wired 1-3 and 2-4)...
After these 3 things were made "right", all is well! Charged it up on my HPWC at 80A (was reclaiming 56 miles per hour of charge!) and vehicle is now sitting with 230+ miles range in the pack... YAHOO! I slept much more easy last night knowing she is going to be ok!
OK, now on to solving my other salvage TESLA's problems! heehee...
YAY! As of last night I got it charging again, it was a combination of 3 things happening simultaneously that I just finally got solved all at the same time:
1. Insufficient 12V power (charging circuit 12V was dropping to 11V-ish upon charge port opening); removed the standard 12V battery (I'm sure its been said a million times but HORRIBLE location), used jumpers to a Lithium 12.8V pack and also used my 10A 12V charger, all simultaneously to really "juice" it!
2. HVIL problem; jumped out the old pyrofuse previously, found the 30A fuse in-line with pyro was also blown, so now I jumped both out, I just got replacement pyro so I installed this last night (just plugged it in at least) but left that small portion of the circuit jumped out.
3. Cut wire loop was inappropriately previously repaired/wired... They wired from 1-4 and 2-3, no idea why the vehicle was still able to drive off the trailer when it was towed to me (though very thankful since I don't have a forklift lying around!); put in a replacement loop (which is wired 1-3 and 2-4)...
After these 3 things were made "right", all is well! Charged it up on my HPWC at 80A (was reclaiming 56 miles per hour of charge!) and vehicle is now sitting with 230+ miles range in the pack... YAHOO! I slept much more easy last night knowing she is going to be ok!
OK, now on to solving my other salvage TESLA's problems! heehee...
Well done. Now look at the logs in Factory mode to understand what else is wrong....
Yes, the #1 source of confounding faults is by far human induced. You aren't expecting 2 wires in a connector to spontaneously swap themselves!
FYI, a bad IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which is a little module mounted on the negative post of the 12v battery, can cause the DC-DC to not appear to work. It's also normal for the DC-DC to not return a HWID.
FYI, a bad IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) which is a little module mounted on the negative post of the 12v battery, can cause the DC-DC to not appear to work. It's also normal for the DC-DC to not return a HWID.
Replaced the video cable, and am having mixed results, when it is not seated firmly, I get a black "nothing" with the backlight lit, but touching the various UI points will still operate various functions of the car. So if I push where the AC button would be the AC turns on, volume buttons, same deal.
When it is seated firmly we get "RAVE MODE":
At the moment, electrical tape is what is holding the replacement FFC cable to the connector, I have found what the precise connector is on mouser, and ordered replacements so I can get a more secure connection, but until those arrive this is the best that I've been getting thus far.
Also on order, managed to convince the original manufacturer of the video cable to send me 2 samples... shipping was unfavorable, but if it's the exact same cable, and it gets my MCU working again... probably worth spending a little extra on that than buying a whole new MCU...
Anyone else have ideas?
Against my better judgement, I'm tweeting this link to Elon... hopefully he gets a laugh.
When it is seated firmly we get "RAVE MODE":
At the moment, electrical tape is what is holding the replacement FFC cable to the connector, I have found what the precise connector is on mouser, and ordered replacements so I can get a more secure connection, but until those arrive this is the best that I've been getting thus far.
Also on order, managed to convince the original manufacturer of the video cable to send me 2 samples... shipping was unfavorable, but if it's the exact same cable, and it gets my MCU working again... probably worth spending a little extra on that than buying a whole new MCU...
Anyone else have ideas?
Against my better judgement, I'm tweeting this link to Elon... hopefully he gets a laugh.
ElectricLove
Member
That series of colors is exactly what happens when you totally remove and reinstall the MCU. However it is supposed to go through all the colors and then finally boot up at the end (at least this is what happens when I do the process). Being that yours is going through the screen self-test it may be the case that you actually have a good connection and the lack of image has to do with a corrupt gpu driver or gpu hardware or something like that...
That's what I said, but WK057 suggested that if I was able to get UI interactivity that it was video cable related. He suggested poking the area that would be the camera input, and the FPGA would display the camera regardless of GPU output.
It makes more sense that the GPU driver is corrupted as I was interacting with the APX mode port prior to getting factory mode.
Parts that have arrived but aren't installed:
Replacement suspension knuckle & wheel hub (new brake disk needed to be sourced yet).
Left Headlight & Fog light
Whole bunch of parts came on Friday:
Replacement sliding pano-roof glass.
Replacement Radiator Support
Replacement Left-Hand condensor & fan
Parts on the way:
Bumper cover replacement
Brake Caliper
Passenger Knee & Dash Airbags
Replacement wheel rim & tire
Left Fender Replacement.
Higher Quality FFC Cables
My room is now a sea of bubble wrap...
Pano-roof glass won't actually be installed until we are closer to salvage inspection ready. Only bought it because one was going for insanely cheap.
Radiator Support, condensor, fan will be installed once we move the car to the shed. We will move the car to the shed when new wheel rim & tire arrive.
Connector snaps came, but upon closer inspection of the existing ffc cable one of the pins rubbed off when I tried to transfer the backers... in the future I won't transfer the backers.
Replacement suspension knuckle & wheel hub (new brake disk needed to be sourced yet).
Left Headlight & Fog light
Whole bunch of parts came on Friday:
Replacement sliding pano-roof glass.
Replacement Radiator Support
Replacement Left-Hand condensor & fan
Parts on the way:
Bumper cover replacement
Brake Caliper
Passenger Knee & Dash Airbags
Replacement wheel rim & tire
Left Fender Replacement.
Higher Quality FFC Cables
My room is now a sea of bubble wrap...
Pano-roof glass won't actually be installed until we are closer to salvage inspection ready. Only bought it because one was going for insanely cheap.
Radiator Support, condensor, fan will be installed once we move the car to the shed. We will move the car to the shed when new wheel rim & tire arrive.
Connector snaps came, but upon closer inspection of the existing ffc cable one of the pins rubbed off when I tried to transfer the backers... in the future I won't transfer the backers.
LVDS FFC Connectors - Molex
I'm pretty confident this is the connector in question, if only I can find an FFC cable to use with it...
I'm pretty confident this is the connector in question, if only I can find an FFC cable to use with it...
So we're looking to move the car into our backyard shed.
That's where all the fun tools are at, and also allows me to work on stuff day/night without worry of weather.
Then also, there's the lack of a need to use a car cover to keep the car "out of sight" to prevent a particular neighbor from reporting us.
So to do this, we need the car in "tow mode", but that's a bit complicated to accomplish when your MCU is not displaying anything and you don't have the touchscreen GUI memorized well enough to just poke the buttons without the GUI displaying.
HOWEVER! I found alternative ways to just put the car in neutral. This released the parking break (I could hear it disengage). So now we can most likely tow it.
Put on a tire, but noticed the supension is a little off... then realized this is because the control arms are disconnected from the left knuckle.
Also noticed that the left suspension knuckle is not bent, but CRACKED (considering the thickness of the metal of these things, that's some impressive force).
Since it's a bit of a hassle to replace such a knuckle, going to try and tow it with the broken knuckle, and then do a bunch of major replacements/repairs in the shed/shop.
Got a replacement left fender... y'know the side damage underneath the A-pillar doesn't look as bad when it's hidden behind a fender
Recently the car's been having some trouble starting up among other things, given that the car has been saying "replace the 12V battery" it's proably the 12V battery, and sure enough when you let the car sit without a constant battery charger hooked up the Battery is only producing 3V which I didn't even know a lead-acid battery could get that low.
So for the moment, going to re-charge that battery so that we have enough power to last us the tow, but then afterward I got myself a 1.2kW 12V power supply that will provide the car some more reliable juice than what the battery has been attempting.
That's where all the fun tools are at, and also allows me to work on stuff day/night without worry of weather.
Then also, there's the lack of a need to use a car cover to keep the car "out of sight" to prevent a particular neighbor from reporting us.
So to do this, we need the car in "tow mode", but that's a bit complicated to accomplish when your MCU is not displaying anything and you don't have the touchscreen GUI memorized well enough to just poke the buttons without the GUI displaying.
HOWEVER! I found alternative ways to just put the car in neutral. This released the parking break (I could hear it disengage). So now we can most likely tow it.
Put on a tire, but noticed the supension is a little off... then realized this is because the control arms are disconnected from the left knuckle.
Also noticed that the left suspension knuckle is not bent, but CRACKED (considering the thickness of the metal of these things, that's some impressive force).
Since it's a bit of a hassle to replace such a knuckle, going to try and tow it with the broken knuckle, and then do a bunch of major replacements/repairs in the shed/shop.
Got a replacement left fender... y'know the side damage underneath the A-pillar doesn't look as bad when it's hidden behind a fender
Recently the car's been having some trouble starting up among other things, given that the car has been saying "replace the 12V battery" it's proably the 12V battery, and sure enough when you let the car sit without a constant battery charger hooked up the Battery is only producing 3V which I didn't even know a lead-acid battery could get that low.
So for the moment, going to re-charge that battery so that we have enough power to last us the tow, but then afterward I got myself a 1.2kW 12V power supply that will provide the car some more reliable juice than what the battery has been attempting.
HyperMiler
Member
Thought I had one already taken, but as it's dark out I'll take another one for you, but the mis-alignment most likely has to do with the control arms not being properly inserted.
Stated in the beginning, if people want more frequent updates, the IRC channel is the best source. The, uh, "unique personalities" on this forum aren't really all that encouraging.
Revealing that info publicly would be a bad idea for many reasons.
---
As requested an update:
Mostly been focusing on repairing the video connection I broke while tinkering with the MCU.
In order to repair the connection, I have to solder 30AWG wire to 0.3mm traces and do so about 30 times. Bought replacement connectors, and it certainly is time consuming.
The setup:
Broken connector connections:
First wire:
Halfway of soldering wire to traces:
Present Status:
Oh, also I modified a power supply to provide more current so I'm not constantly buying and replacing dead 12V batteries:
Oh! I discovered the absence of safety cut loop in frunk, so that needs to be replaced too.
I feel it would be dishonest if I didn't mention my slither.io addiction:
And the fact I binge watched House of Cards from episode one thru the end of season 4 in recent past...
Oh! I discovered the absence of safety cut loop in frunk, so that needs to be replaced too.
I feel it would be dishonest if I didn't mention my slither.io addiction:
And the fact I binge watched House of Cards from episode one thru the end of season 4 in recent past...
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