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AC/Heater Blower removal

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Hello

Someone can tell me how much resistance it’s correct between two pols (conector) in the blower?
I mean if put the two poles from the multimeter in to the two pols in the blower how many ohms?

I’m not fine information in internet about that.

👍👍👍Thanks to this forum, I take out the blower.👍👍👍

Mine motor it’s not working. At the connector comes 12,6v continually and when i change the speed, voltage it’s going down progressively to 10,4v.

I thing that’s it’s correct because the resistance it’s working… but I want to be 100% sure that the problem it’s the blower before I buying it.

Thanks!
I put directly 12v in to blower and works.

Any idea what is defect?

Thanks
 
The bearing in the blower motor of my '13 S was on its way out. I could hear high pitched chirping from the bearing that immediately went away went turning off the HVAC. I did not replace the regulator. Sourced a replacement blower from eBay. The Tesla service manual for this job is woefully inadequate, so I thought I'd share a couple observations from my work. You have to remove the passenger side upper foot well trim to access the blower. The manual specifies that there are two T15 screws, which is accurate, except that the left side screw is hiding behind the left foot well trim. That can be removed by pulling, it's just secured with a bunch of clips. Dropping the upper foot well trim reveals the blower motor. I did not remove the glove box for this work as having access to that part of the system is unnecessary for replacement. The Philips screws for the blower (three for the motor itself, one connecting the duct to the motor) are fairly accessible, however the manual unhelpfully says that you should be able to maneuver the blower around the foot well duct to remove. I have no clue how someone could do this. I removed an additional duct screw on the right side to give a bit more flexibility to the duct (seen in the first picture). I still could not get the blower past the duct because there isn't enough room between the duct and the foot well for the blower to fit through. To give myself more real estate to work, I removed the right side foot well trim (held in with pegs and a single clip, just pull but be prepared to break some of the pegs). Then I folded the carpet back. Lastly, I removed the 4 screws attaching the metal foot plate and removed the plate altogether. This gave loads of room to work. The blower practically fell out after this as it has a clear path downwards. If I were doing this job again and I removed the trim, carpet, and plate to begin with, I could do the whole job in about an hour. As it was, it took about two while trying to figure out how to remove the blower. Reinstall the blower first, then reattach everything in reverse order.
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Just posting for future reference, for anybody wanting to replace the blower motor alias320’S post is very helpful. I believe mine will be as well.

I will add:

I bought the blower for $53.25 from the service center as I wanted original Bosch part.

I did not even open the glove box let alone dismantle anything related to it.

I completed this in 35 minutes and it was very easy.

I had to remove the lower left side footwell panel it unclips as alias320 mentions. This reveals the second torx to remove upper footwell panel. My model S has ambient lighting so beware of the small connector to unclip behind the upper footwell panel if you have ambient lighting. Don’t forget to clip back in.

I did not need to remove carpet, right side footwell panel or the lower metal foot panel plate as alias320 indicated.

Instead, I removed both screws holding in the hvac duct that impedes extraction of the blower shown in the first photo in alias320’S post and pushed/shifted the duct towards the passenger door by about 2” which disconnects it allowing free movement.

This allows for plenty of room to basically drop out the blower.

Only challenge I had was screw at rear side of blower motor towards front of car, but I used a 3/8” ratchet with a screwdriver bit to get it quite easily.

To reconnect the HVAC duct I was able to align it with its mating surface by aligning my sight with a small opening to the left side of the passenger upper footwell panel where you can see the HVAC duct has a matching shaped connector to push into, it is a simple friction fit with no clips. I was lying down upside down in the passenger footwell looking up towards the left side of the glove box.

Finally no chirping!!! And upon inspection of the blower I extracted it is very clearly the source of chirping as you ever so slightly rotate the fan and hear a very familiar squeak!
 
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Raroia,​

Useful stuff. Can cofirm the method works.
I want to add. The chirping is from the place where brushes touch the rotor (pic). The copper track gets scratched badly for some reason. I polished it using a drilling tool, sand paper and polishing paste (no after photo). This fixed the problem, at least for a few months, it's the second time I'm doing this. I can't find a new blower in my country and don't want to buy used. To remove the white fan 2 long screwdrivers can be used as a leverage.
The connector is hard to detach, the photo shows where to pinch it. The duct may be tricky to reconnect, the photo shows where to look, the loose duct goes over the stationary one.
I wouldn't call the work very easy, requires some agility.
 

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Thank you. Are these instructions accurate?
  1. Remove lower left side footwell panel (panel clips)
  2. Remove upper footwell panel (T15 screws)
  3. Remove HVAC duct (1 Phillips screw)
  4. Remove HVAC blower (3 Phillips screws)
I believe so yes, bu you should refer to my earlier post in this thread. I wrote that while I was doing it so it should be very accurate... Has been a while and cannot remember exact steps beyond what I wrote in my guide posted.