Excuse my ignorance, but with respect to placing the subwoofer in the rear foot well, is the subwoofer mounted in a box with the Tesla supplied cover placed over the foot well area hiding the sub, or is the subwoofer mounted in a round cutout in the cover of the foot well? Are you able to stack cargo on top of the rear foot well area without messing up the sound (or puncturing the sub)? Is the sound transmitted through the left-hand opening of the foot well? I know that low frequencies are generally omnidirectional but I'm still a little confused.
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aftermarket audio upgrade
- Thread starter maxjamie
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- Model S User Interface
with regards to aftermarket sub in the rear footwell, yes it'd be a custom made box to fit in the footwell. if it's firing up I would not put anything on top of it to cover it (which means taking out my all weather mat). it's possible maybe to port it and have it fire to the bottom left where theres actually an opening. in the latter case then i'd be fine to cover it and put stuff on top of it. in both cases, I would actually build it to be removable. plus i'd dynamic the entire trunk.
with regards to OEM subwoofer, this is the exact custom made box they use for the OEM subwoofer:
it's hidden in the right side of the trunk.
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yobigd20, thanks for the explanation. I have also seen pics of the NVX sub that is mounted in the left-hand side of the trunk and thought it was clever in that it would allow the cargo area to be usable (weather mat or filled up with cargo). But again, it seems that there is no cover over the sub speaker itself and could easily get punctured.
you could easily get any aftermarket grill and drill it in to protect it. they come in all shapes and sizes.
Tacket
Member
Mine is in stock box (Fosgate powered 10" sub) and covered by the oem tesla cover + aftermarket trunk mat. It is still plenty loud.
Tacket
Member
Went straight off battery. I'm having an issue of no sound out of right front speaker. Wire taps have been checked. This happened briefly right after installation too. The theory is I may need a line level converter. Thoughts?
you need to provide more details about the modifications you made. if you added an amp yea I have no clue how you did it *without* using a line level converter....
the MS has no line outs, the only way to provide audio input to an amp is to use a line level converter. when you say 'wire taps', what exactly did you do?
I had a custom enclosure made that fits a JL 10" W3 sub with a JL Audio amp. Very clean, and a nice grill painted w/ clear coat that compliments the car. Al & Ed's in Huntington Beach used my car to make the enclosure so they have the template now. Call JT over there and tell them Kris sent you and he will take care of you for a great price.
I have the standard system and it sounds AMAZING compared to the factory sound, and even better than the upgraded audio I heard in a loaner car the other day. Also, I have a remote bass adjustment right under the dash so you adjust on the fly if needed.
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AL & ED's in Huntington Beach used an AudioControl L2CI that tapped into my rear speakers and then sent a signal to a JL Audio amp, which feeds my JL 10" W3 sub.
Without this AudioControl box, it didn't sound very good. That box made a world of a difference and the car sounds amazing now.
I have the standard system and it sounds AMAZING compared to the factory sound, and even better than the upgraded audio I heard in a loaner car the other day. Also, I have a remote bass adjustment right under the dash so you adjust on the fly if needed.
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AL & ED's in Huntington Beach used an AudioControl L2CI that tapped into my rear speakers and then sent a signal to a JL Audio amp, which feeds my JL 10" W3 sub.
Without this AudioControl box, it didn't sound very good. That box made a world of a difference and the car sounds amazing now.
smsprague
Member
I'm not sure what the cost of the box would be, that would be a question best answered by JT @ Al & Ed's Huntington Beach.
I do know that the whole setup cost me right about $1,500 installed. That was all parts and labor out the door.
I originally wanted them to install the NVX package, but JT told me he could do a much better custom system with JL audio gear and better looking and sounding enclosure. The NVX setup is almost $1K, so I got this custom installation done for $500 more and that even included installation, I'm happy.
I do know that the whole setup cost me right about $1,500 installed. That was all parts and labor out the door.
I originally wanted them to install the NVX package, but JT told me he could do a much better custom system with JL audio gear and better looking and sounding enclosure. The NVX setup is almost $1K, so I got this custom installation done for $500 more and that even included installation, I'm happy.
Oh no doubt about that. JL is the best hands down. I personally wouldn't put any other sub in a car. You made a great decision.
Yea the confusing part to me is why (and how) anybody would even attempt to hook up a sub here without splitting the factory speaker outs into a line level converter and out into an amp and then into your woofer. You can't just take a factory speaker wire and run it directly into a sub...it just doesn't work that way. It would sound worse than horrible plus it could damage the components. If I saw a shop attempt that I would stay farrr away.
Apparently you can, if your amp has balanced inputs I believe. It just won't sound that great. That's why we went the AudioControl L2CI route and when everything is dialed in, the JL sub really adds so much to the stock system it sounds 1,000X better. My wife went from completely hating the stereo and wishing we had gone with the premium version, to loving it so much that our BMW with the Logic 7 system (which was her favorite of any car) sounds like crap to her (and to me as well!)
It makes me wonder if the Premium Tesla stereo simply has an amp feeding the little junky 8" sub in the back and thats the only improvement. The standard stereo with this JL amp/sub really outshines the premium sound upgrade as far as I can tell, and I consider myself an audiophile..
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Thanks dude, you really can never go wrong with JL. I am sure the NVX is fine in its own right, but I have never heard of them so I wasn't happy with spending $1K for a box/amp from a company with little to no personal experience or track record to speak of.
This is all pretty exciting news... I was worried about my upcoming order which has standard sound (December Delivery date). I'd like to go with JL and get an enclosure built or maybe see if I can nestle in a pre-made JL enclosure in the little cubby there. I don't have full dimensions yet though.
As for inputs directly from speaker lines, it's not a matter of balanced versus unbalanced inputs, it's if it has speaker level inputs. Most amps do have this feature. However, the amp might not too good of a job with the reduced quality of the signal from your stock stereo. I did a little looking and grabbed this quote from Crutchfield's page for the AudioControl LC2i:
"Some factory radios dial down the bass as you turn up the volume to protect their speakers. The problem is, they don't give it back when you upgrade to a nice set of aftermarket speakers. AudioControl packs the LC2i with their AccuBASS™ circuitry that reverses the factory bass rolloff, giving you the bass you need to enjoy your music to the fullest. Place the LC2i between your factory system and your bass amp, and you'll hear a huge difference in bass response."
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]So essentially, yes it's a speaker level to line level converter, but it has some smart algorithms to adjust for the [/FONT][FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]shenanigans[/FONT][FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] your stock stereo does to the low frequencies which are supposed to be going to cheapie speakers. Others have said it gets around the voltage feeding the amp being too low, which would likely result in a poor gain structure.
Geek Alert!
For the curious... balanced audio signals require 3 wires (+, - and ground (shield)) versus unbalanced which is like an RCA cable that's just signal plus ground/shield. Balanced signals are great when you have to run a low level analog signal over long distances since it rejects interference. Balanced systems sends both the regular signal, plus the inverse of the signal (a signal that is 180 degrees out of phase of the original). If any noise, EMI,etc. is introduced into the signal the noise affects both signals in the same direction (both up or both down).
[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]
When the two signals reach the destination, the negative is inverted, to make it positive again, then they are summed. The noise introduced on the signal now has a positive and exact opposite negative component and when summed cancels itself out leaving only the real signal without distortion. Yeah, complicated and tough to understand. I'm not much good at car audio, but am an AV design engineer for presentation systems. We run all line level runs more than about 20-25ft using balanced audio lines to avoid nastiness.
So next up is determining where I should get an enclosure or if I should make one myself. That NVX one is nice but like everyone says, it's about 2x the price that it should be. It's silly. Just because we own a Tesla doesn't mean we like throwing money away.
Also, does anyone have the dimensions of the well on the right in the trunk? Would something lik[/FONT]e the JL Audio CS110-WXv2 (18-3/4w x 12-1/8h x 7-3/4d) fit without trouble? Sure would be easier.
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
As for inputs directly from speaker lines, it's not a matter of balanced versus unbalanced inputs, it's if it has speaker level inputs. Most amps do have this feature. However, the amp might not too good of a job with the reduced quality of the signal from your stock stereo. I did a little looking and grabbed this quote from Crutchfield's page for the AudioControl LC2i:
"Some factory radios dial down the bass as you turn up the volume to protect their speakers. The problem is, they don't give it back when you upgrade to a nice set of aftermarket speakers. AudioControl packs the LC2i with their AccuBASS™ circuitry that reverses the factory bass rolloff, giving you the bass you need to enjoy your music to the fullest. Place the LC2i between your factory system and your bass amp, and you'll hear a huge difference in bass response."
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]So essentially, yes it's a speaker level to line level converter, but it has some smart algorithms to adjust for the [/FONT][FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]shenanigans[/FONT][FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] your stock stereo does to the low frequencies which are supposed to be going to cheapie speakers. Others have said it gets around the voltage feeding the amp being too low, which would likely result in a poor gain structure.
Geek Alert!
For the curious... balanced audio signals require 3 wires (+, - and ground (shield)) versus unbalanced which is like an RCA cable that's just signal plus ground/shield. Balanced signals are great when you have to run a low level analog signal over long distances since it rejects interference. Balanced systems sends both the regular signal, plus the inverse of the signal (a signal that is 180 degrees out of phase of the original). If any noise, EMI,etc. is introduced into the signal the noise affects both signals in the same direction (both up or both down).
[/FONT]
When the two signals reach the destination, the negative is inverted, to make it positive again, then they are summed. The noise introduced on the signal now has a positive and exact opposite negative component and when summed cancels itself out leaving only the real signal without distortion. Yeah, complicated and tough to understand. I'm not much good at car audio, but am an AV design engineer for presentation systems. We run all line level runs more than about 20-25ft using balanced audio lines to avoid nastiness.
So next up is determining where I should get an enclosure or if I should make one myself. That NVX one is nice but like everyone says, it's about 2x the price that it should be. It's silly. Just because we own a Tesla doesn't mean we like throwing money away.
Also, does anyone have the dimensions of the well on the right in the trunk? Would something lik[/FONT]e the JL Audio CS110-WXv2 (18-3/4w x 12-1/8h x 7-3/4d) fit without trouble? Sure would be easier.
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
upgraded rear speakers to Infinity's - what a difference!
hi guys,
I swapped Infinity speakers into the rear doors and the sound is amazing.
following Teslatap's detailed instructions, I purchased infinity 6.5 inch, 2 ohm speakers that had dimensions similar to the stock. I bought the universal adapter kit that he mentioned, but once I looked at things, I decided to use the tesla mounts.
I removed the tesla midwoofer at the adhesive edge, and the Infinity fit perfectly. It is, however, about 1/4 inch thicker, so you either have to leave the door panels slightly open in the front lower corner, or could cut the door panel opening, or use the universal kit.
these speakers have a great tweeter than can be aimed and has a 0, +3 dB button. I wired to the stubs of wire from the tesla midwoofer so no changes were made to the car wires.
the difference in sound is really remarkable. I can hear words in songs and understand lyrics that I never did. I also installed a sub in the back which is self enclosed and has a built in amp that takes speaker level inputs. With the sub and the new speakers, I have been wanting to go for drives just to listen to the stereo
I noticed, however, that the bass was also better enough that I could have passed on the sub; but there's never enough bass, right?
below are pix that show the installation. it's easy to get the door panels off, just make sure not to pull any wires loose. there are 3 clips to undo before setting the panel aside.
so now, for $300 plus my installation time, my Tesla sounds great.
thinking about a dash cam next.
hi guys,
I swapped Infinity speakers into the rear doors and the sound is amazing.
following Teslatap's detailed instructions, I purchased infinity 6.5 inch, 2 ohm speakers that had dimensions similar to the stock. I bought the universal adapter kit that he mentioned, but once I looked at things, I decided to use the tesla mounts.
I removed the tesla midwoofer at the adhesive edge, and the Infinity fit perfectly. It is, however, about 1/4 inch thicker, so you either have to leave the door panels slightly open in the front lower corner, or could cut the door panel opening, or use the universal kit.
these speakers have a great tweeter than can be aimed and has a 0, +3 dB button. I wired to the stubs of wire from the tesla midwoofer so no changes were made to the car wires.
the difference in sound is really remarkable. I can hear words in songs and understand lyrics that I never did. I also installed a sub in the back which is self enclosed and has a built in amp that takes speaker level inputs. With the sub and the new speakers, I have been wanting to go for drives just to listen to the stereo
I noticed, however, that the bass was also better enough that I could have passed on the sub; but there's never enough bass, right?below are pix that show the installation. it's easy to get the door panels off, just make sure not to pull any wires loose. there are 3 clips to undo before setting the panel aside.
so now, for $300 plus my installation time, my Tesla sounds great.
thinking about a dash cam next.
I chose to replace all the speakers and make custom speaker rings - and yes, MudFud, it's a whole new world of sound just by replacing few parts.
If you want you can take a look at my setup on my website Teslafied | Tesla Model S Modifications
If you want you can take a look at my setup on my website Teslafied | Tesla Model S Modifications
Looks good...a couple of questions...
- Were you upgrading from the standard sound, or premium?
- If the latter, did you replace the existing sub?
- The gap on the door would kill me, with the uni-mounts, you're fairly sure they'd be a perfect fit?
- Why'd you choose the rear doors rather than front? Just curious...to move the sound stage back towards the middle/rear of the car?
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