Aftermarket subwoofer - Model Y

[C-Bus Y]

Let me start by saying this thread isn’t to discuss the benefit of adding extra low end to your audio experience in a Tesla Y. You either enjoy hearing & feeling extra bass in your music or not, it is preference and the reason we all mod our vehicles differently.

I am designing my setup with the goal of modest bass gains, retaining as much usable space as possible, and stealth appearance. Will use a small class D 500W rms amp and an existing JL Audio shallow mount 10TW3-D4 dual 4 ohm 10” subwoofer from my previous vehicle. Fantastic little subwoofer with surprising capability. Will have a remote bass knob somewhere easily accessible by the drivers seat. Plan is to tap into the factory subwoofer speaker lines and use as both a remote turn on for the amp and signal. Reading about some issues when using a 12V switched source in a Tesla drawing power vs using existing speakers as a turn-on source. Not sure yet if I will remove the factory sub or simply turn down the low frequencies on the factory EQ.

There are a few threads about adding a subwoofer in a model 3 and where to tap into power, ground and signal. Also read about someone replacing the actual 8” factory sub with a new one and adding an amplifier. Not sure how the new subwoofer matched the box requirements...

Has anyone added an amp and subwoofer in the hatch area to a model Y?

Probably not a lot of volume upside just yet but it would be amazing if someone built a custom box that is either molded to the sub trunk floor OR the small pocket areas on either side of the hatch. My preference is a ported box but may end up going sealed for simplicity. Not interested in personally building a box but will do the install.

Looking forward to following this thread and will update it as I start to make progress.

 

[C-Bus Y]

Took some measurements of the sub trunk/hatch area and 14” height is just a hair too tall. 18.9” by 13” by 6” using .75” wood could fit nicely with this speaker and yield .5 Cu Ft of net internal space.

JL audio also makes a prefab unit that could fit very nice in the sub trunk area. Their rectangle box seems too large.

CS110TG-TW3

Will reach out to a box builder that has been used in the past to see how much it would cost to build a box to this spec.

 

[2020]

I would be interested to see where you draw power. I had to tap the 12v cigarette lighter in the back trunk area for my radar/laser shifter. I originally tapped directly into the 12v battery in the frunk, that didn't last long since after 2-3 weeks the battery died out.

 

[C-Bus Y]

I would be interested to see where you draw power. I had to tap the 12v cigarette lighter in the back trunk area for my radar/laser shifter. I originally tapped directly into the 12v battery in the frunk, that didn't last long since after 2-3 weeks the battery died out.

Been reading a lot about this and people seem to have success where they use speaker signal to trigger the amp to turn on. My amp happens to have this capability but some speaker to RCA converters (LOC) can also do this.

 

[Kobicue]

As much as Iove the premium sound, i too would like some extra oopmh. My previous car had custom audio and it was banging.

 

[52 16 57 39]

Yes yes yes!

I’m not looking to win competitions or rattle the neighbors - but a bit extra bass w a standard/drivers remote knob up front would be amazing.

 

[INeedMoreBass]

I'm in the process of weighing my options for my Model 3 currently. Regarding keeping vs tossing your OEM sub: I don't think your OEM sub will get even close to the volume on your aftermarket. I'd recommend removing it to save on that extra weight (although I guess it's not that much weight). And selling that OEM sub and amp on eBay or whatever will help offset the cost of your aftermarket system.

 

[C-Bus Y]

Any instructions out there on accessing the factory sub? Would likely keep and return to stock down the road. Aftermarket subs don’t increase value when selling a vehicle, likely hurt value.

 

[N1L CO2]

The factory sub is mounted behind the trim on the right side of the trunk. You will also find the factory amplifier there. You will need to removed the sill plate, trunk floor panels and a couple of other pieces of trim to get to it. They are all held down with various clips but do take your time with them as they tend to break easily.

 

[DennyL]

I upgraded my factory sub. JL Audio 8W3v3 fit near perfectly. Will power it with a Helix M One amp.

 

[N1L CO2]

Wow, a very clean install. I like the ABS plastic backing plate you made for the woofer. Are you sure the Helix amp won't draw too much juice from the tiny 12V battery? How will you bypass the factory amp? Did you already make a harness?

 

[DennyL]

Wow, a very clean install. I like the ABS plastic backing plate you made for the woofer. Are you sure the Helix amp won't draw too much juice from the tiny 12V battery? How will you bypass the factory amp? Did you already make a harness?

The Helix M One size of a small book. My installer was sure it won’t take much power. I will check how he bypassed the factory amp.

 

[C-Bus Y]

I upgraded my factory sub. JL Audio 8W3v3 fit near perfectly. Will power it with a Helix M One amp.

Very nice, when the install is complete you will have to give us your impressions on sound vs factory sub! Also interested in where you mounted the remote volume knob.

Still working on a few options for my setup.

 

[DennyL]

Very nice, when the install is complete you will have to give us your impressions on sound vs factory sub! Also interested in where you mounted the remote volume knob.

Still working on a few options for my setup.

 

[DennyL]

I just finished comparing the stock enclosure with the the 8W3 to two 10TW3. I can say there is a difference from stock to 8W3. I tested Selena Gomez Same Old Love track, I can hear and feel it kick pretty noticeably. Not earth shattering with some background coming from 12W6s and 12W7s in my Civic Hatchback back in the days. But for what’s it’s worth if you are looking to not build a box, it’s much better than stock for sure.

Now to my two TW3, using same amp it hits significantly for dang sure. Not to the point my Broadway real view mirror folding downward like it did in my Civic hatchback.

my two cent I like how the 8W3 sounds, maybe I just need to fine tune my 10TW3s.

Hope that helps you make your decision.

 

[DennyL]

For those that are interested here is my bass setup.

JL Audio 10TW3 setup in parallel at 2 ohms

JL Audio 8W3v3 4 ohms

Helix M One X - 400 Watts 4 ohms for the single 8W3v3 or 700 Watts 2 ohms for the two 10TW3
Helix V Eight DSP MK2 for my front speakers.

I am switching between to two subwoofer configuration using terminal block.

 

[mcmcn]

Danny, the back 'box' with the two 10's is awesome, was it custom made or is it available online somewhere?

 

[DennyL]

Danny, the back 'box' with the two 10's is awesome, was it custom made or is it available online somewhere?

Many places can custom make it and I can send you the exact specs if you want someone to build it for you.

 

[keith4909]

Nice set ups. I’m curious why not use the existing stock amp with the 8w3. I saw a used sub on eBay and I think it said power handling was 160w. Maybe I’m misinformed. I understand that pushing more power is good but on jl audios site says that sub is best powered by 75-250w. I only ask because I would be excited if I can just upgrade the speaker?

 

[DennyL]

Nice set ups. I’m curious why not use the existing stock amp with the 8w3. I saw a used sub on eBay and I think it said power handling was 160w. Maybe I’m misinformed. I understand that pushing more power is good but on jl audios site says that sub is best powered by 75-250w. I only ask because I would be excited if I can just upgrade the speaker?

Because the JL Audio 8W3v3 is single voice coil. The stock amp is wired dual voice coil to the sub and you will probably have to go with a Kicker or Memphis that has dual voice coil at 4 ohms. Plus the stock it’s rated at 80watts, my amp is pushing 400 Watts to the JL sub at 4 ohms. I wanted more kick.