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Aftermarket Tesla CarPlay and Android Auto Devices

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Finally, got a response from the customer support:
"First unplug the traffic card, use the Bluetooth network into the background, the "Bluetooth settings" of the "Bluetooth network sharing" off, and then restart the device"
Can anyone make sense of the instructions?
I'm guessing they mean:
1) remove the SIM card
2) connect to the T2C, in a browser, go to the settings page to toggle off bluetooth network sharing
3) restart the device
 
@EMEV and @sbtz : Thank you for your responses.
Unfortunately, I had either read and tried solutions provided by the vendor, or contacted other users with the same problem without success.
At this point, I am debating whether to keep it and use iPhone Hotspot or return the product to Amazon which already offered to make an exception to the 30-day return policy.

I do like the CarPlay in my Tesla that this simple hack offers, especially for my old eyes. Waze, ABRP, Plugshare, Chargepoint and other apps that Tesla doesn't offer.
 
@EMEV and @sbtz : Thank you for your responses.
Unfortunately, I had either read and tried solutions provided by the vendor, or contacted other users with the same problem without success.
At this point, I am debating whether to keep it and use iPhone Hotspot or return the product to Amazon which already offered to make an exception to the 30-day return policy.

I do like the CarPlay in my Tesla that this simple hack offers, especially for my old eyes. Waze, ABRP, Plugshare, Chargepoint and other apps that Tesla doesn't offer.

From a practical standpoint, currently there is only this solution (T2C) and the Tesla-Android solution to get CarPlay to work with the Tesla browser/screen (not counting add-on devices). The Tesla-Android is more complex and more expensive to setup than the T2C and given the problems you are facing with the T2C you could probably face the same problems with the Tesla-Android solution. I have both the T2C and the Tesla-Android solution working and from my experiences/preferences for CarPlay-only the T2C is a better solution. Now if you want to have in addition to CarPlay also have game playing from the Play Store and play high quality video on the Tesla then Tesla-Android is the only solution. If you really like CarPlay in your Tesla I would try another T2C to see if it works, assuming you can return the new one you get if it also has problems.
 
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Ok then it seems to be your Bluetooth to CarPlay handshake transfer/connection that is not working correctly. I think on the T2C you can change what WiFi frequency the CarPlay uses - 2.4GHz vs 5GHz - you can try changing that to see if it helps.

Forgot to ask but have you updated the T2C and your iPhone to the latest software/firmware? If not, update both to the latest and then follow all of the seven steps I outlined previously since both updates messes with your T2C and iPhone connection.

Do you have any other car that you use CarPlay on this iPhone? If so, delete the other car Bluetooth and CarPlay connection to test the T2C only. You can re-establish the other car after testing.
Yes, it’s updated to the latest firmware too. No other CarPlay cars, unfortunately. Maybe I’ll find a car dealership, but I certainly don’t want to waste a salesperson’s time (or turn up)

I’m assuming it’s supposed to handoff from Bluetooth to Wi-Fi when CarPlay starts, but it never does. Sometimes it stays up and connects to personal hotspot, but the connection never actually works (in that I cannot browse in my cars browser, even when it shows connected.) it’s like I’m blacklisted from whatever proxy they’ve set up to make this all work.
 
All the behaviors you have been describing are not normal. None of the suggestions have worked. I’ll bet one Internet Dollar Φ it will work normally after you have wiped and restored it.
I’d agree, and might try this weekend. Just seems kind of ridiculous come to that though, to get this product to work. I guess it is literally a hack to get CarPlay. With my luck, one of my backups would carry over the odd behavior.
 
With my luck, one of my backups would carry over the odd behavior.
What I'd actually do is test it after the wipe but before doing the restore. So wipe it, set it up as "new" and test the T2C. If it doesn't work then there is something seriously wrong with your phone since it is factory restored. If it works then restore from your backup and test again.

What will this prove?

1) Is the problem with your phone hardware (or possibly firmware)?
2) Is there something in your backup image that when restored re-introduces the issue?

This gives you choices - if (1) maybe go to Apple Genius Bar. If (2) you have a choice to set up as new and install your apps and files manually since your system image and backup have something wonky stored in them. Every 2-3 years I set up "as new" since the cruft that collects through the various system updates and the phone hardware upgrades eventually triggers some obscure bug.

And of course Option #3 - fck it, send it back and forget T2C ever happened.

My bet? T2C will work perfectly when you set up as new and will continue to work after you have restored from your backup.

25% chance these won't fix it.
 
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My T2C works as well as expected, but I've been trying to live with the Tesla native software for a week. It hasn't been the end of the world, and it has it's own cool feel to it. I have a 45 minute commute and tend to play one thing, like an audio book for the whole trip, so it is almost easier to just hit play with the bluetooth than to mess with the T2C. But if I want to switch to something else, that's where the annoyance comes in. And lack of Waze on the highway could prove costly one day.

But I'm not completely dissatisfied with the native Tesla experience surprisingly. If they just added an Audible app, I don't think I'd miss CarPlay as much. That being said, using the phone to provide the entertainment suite in the car is still the best idea ever, and should not be left to die. Rivian, Tesla and GM have all decided to get rid of CarPlay/AA, not a good thing especially if this sickness spreads.
 
My T2C works as well as expected, but I've been trying to live with the Tesla native software for a week. It hasn't been the end of the world, and it has it's own cool feel to it. I have a 45 minute commute and tend to play one thing, like an audio book for the whole trip, so it is almost easier to just hit play with the bluetooth than to mess with the T2C. But if I want to switch to something else, that's where the annoyance comes in. And lack of Waze on the highway could prove costly one day.

But I'm not completely dissatisfied with the native Tesla experience surprisingly. If they just added an Audible app, I don't think I'd miss CarPlay as much. That being said, using the phone to provide the entertainment suite in the car is still the best idea ever, and should not be left to die. Rivian, Tesla and GM have all decided to get rid of CarPlay/AA, not a good thing especially if this sickness spreads.
I believe Rivian comes with CarPlay and Tesla never had it?
 
What I'd actually do is test it after the wipe but before doing the restore. So wipe it, set it up as "new" and test the T2C. If it doesn't work then there is something seriously wrong with your phone since it is factory restored. If it works then restore from your backup and test again.

What will this prove?

1) Is the problem with your phone hardware (or possibly firmware)?
2) Is there something in your backup image that when restored re-introduces the issue?

This gives you choices - if (1) maybe go to Apple Genius Bar. If (2) you have a choice to set up as new and install your apps and files manually since your system image and backup have something wonky stored in them. Every 2-3 years I set up "as new" since the cruft that collects through the various system updates and the phone hardware upgrades eventually triggers some obscure bug.

And of course Option #3 - fck it, send it back and forget T2C ever happened.

My bet? T2C will work perfectly when you set up as new and will continue to work after you have restored from your backup.

25% chance these won't fix it.
Great point. Did a "Erase All Content and Settings" reset this morning and am here to report the results - will update this as I go:

1) Performed a reset
2) Did NOT do a restore - so this was essentially a fresh phone.
3) Tested the T2C w/o SIM - CarPlay success!
4) Tested the T2C w/ SIM - CarPlay success!

So as almost everyone expected, there was something going on specific to my phone. Now I wonder what it was, and why/how it even worked for a while a couple of days ago (and why it stopped working). Now on to restore from a backup to see if it continues to work...

EDIT: I am happy to report that post-restore, everything is still working as expected. For for those who search for this in the future, these are the lengths you may have to go to (factory reset) to get nagging issues to go away. Now let's see if it stays working and whether it's worth the trouble. (Frankly, now that I've experienced CarPlay, I wasn't missing out on much for my personal use-case, but I really just wanted to get it to work.) Thanks everyone, for your suggestions and motivation to just get this done.
 
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On a different but T2C related topic I discovered it’s possible to run CarPlay in full screen using the various full screen Tesla web sites out there. While this gives an amazing gigantic maps experience it has several limitations - primarily that audio switches over to the browser and the Bluetooth audio stream is lost. I couldn’t work out a way to get it back because of the second issue - you lose all the Tesla UI so you can’t switch inputs (voice control doesn’t work either).

Fun to experiment though - photos attached ...
 

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Today I was riding down the highway with Waze running and my screen went to the black set up screen twice. I didn’t do anything both times, and Waze came back automatically.
Was it just for a couple of seconds? Mine does that too - I think they have a bug in the unit where it stops streaming occasionally - I couldn’t work out the trigger for it. I also found the maps run slower the longer you use it - they may have a memory leak too. Hopefully gets fixed in an update.