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Air Conditioner Recharge Cost, DIY?

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SabrToothSqrl

Active Member
Dec 5, 2014
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4,154
PA
The A/C on my 2019 X has gotten progressively worse in the last few weeks. I thought maybe it was just hot, but it's cutting out more often. From the symptoms, I'd have guessed it needs a fill up on whatever the version of Freon is now, but does this seem kinda high to anyone else? It's 2,000 miles out of warranty, so that's awesome.

I'm fairly good at auto and engine repair, and happy to save $650 here if anyone has any ideas...

thanks!

Screenshot 2023-07-26 at 17-52-13 tesla_invoice70f48210-89e1-435b-b7c2-5eef239c31d6.pdf.png
 
A properly sealed system should not need to be topped off. More than likely there is a small leak. The problem is if there is a small leak you probably have some air and moisture in the system. So to do it right: If there is any refrigerant left, you need to properly evacuate it, find the leak, fix the leak, draw a vacuum make sure the leak is fixed and to evacuate the moisture, then refill. You can actually do all of this except for the proper capture. But you will need to get a vacuum pump and a set of gauges and get the right amount of refrigerant in the system.

For work like this you don’t have to take it to Tesla. You can find another shop around that is trust worthy.
 
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Not certain what the Model X fans/condenser situation looks like, but on the Model 3, they're prone to getting jammed up a bit with leaves, grass and other light road debris that can cause reduction in air flow over the condenser and reduce its performance especially on really hot days. I'd say just take a quick look under there and see if you can verify good air flow in that area. Maybe you'll get lucky and you just sucked up a plastic bag or something, it may not even cause increased fan noise.
 
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This is not DIY work.

If there’s a leak it needs to be fixed instead of just trying to add more refrigerant.

Doing it right means evacuating the system completely to recover the refrigerant, finding and repairing the leak if there is one, then drawing a complete vacuum before refilling with the proper amount of refrigerant and non-conductive oil. All of which requires special equipment.
 
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It is absolutely can be DIY, cause i've done it (R134a tho), not any different than ICE cars.
Its much easier if u have a fancy AC machine that does recovery/vacuum/charge etc but can do with separate vacuum pump n cans of freon.
Idk when they switched to R1234yf but ck ur label under the hood to be sure.
If there was no dye in the system it might be hard to find a leak, so 1st step is to recharge with dye n check later. Sniffers are not reliable in my opinion.
If ur AC still turns on n runs, there should be no air in it due to constant pressure in the system but that's irrelevant.
Its always good to vacuum then re-charge for leak ck n proper amount.
Do use ND11 oil, or any hybrid/dialectic version.
 
I should have some time tomorrow to check for any obstructions to the condenser. It seems that when I can hear/feel the compressor running, it blows cold, then when I don't, it blows 'not cold'. My 1995 Tahoe would also stop the compressor, I assume when the refrigerant pressure got too low.
No errors on the dash though...

If I recall correctly, the A/C in my X was always kinda loud when on max, and I don't hear it like I used to. (I think)?

$650 just seems like a LOT to me for this... and that a 2019 car shouldn't be leaking refrigerant...
 
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Well, I got, and paid, the big fat bill from Tesla. A/C works now, but reviewing the estimate and final invoice leads me to believe they knew what this was ahead of time.

some 12v wiring that controls when the compressor comes on became loose/damaged/etc. This, from what I'm reading, appears to be the root cause. Which is something they listed above in the estimate. The car had no coolant leak. I'm guessing it's a design flaw, but good luck proving it on my end.

so there went a ton of money for a loose wire that they clearly knew about in advance... so... awesome?

So, if YOU have this symptom, of the A/C only being cold some of the time, and want to remove your frunk and chase some parts/wiring, maybe that's something worth saving $600 to you... had I known this or was more familiar with the wiring, I'd at least have given it a shot...
 
Well, I got, and paid, the big fat bill from Tesla. A/C works now, but reviewing the estimate and final invoice leads me to believe they knew what this was ahead of time.

some 12v wiring that controls when the compressor comes on became loose/damaged/etc. This, from what I'm reading, appears to be the root cause. Which is something they listed above in the estimate. The car had no coolant leak. I'm guessing it's a design flaw, but good luck proving it on my end.

so there went a ton of money for a loose wire that they clearly knew about in advance... so... awesome?

So, if YOU have this symptom, of the A/C only being cold some of the time, and want to remove your frunk and chase some parts/wiring, maybe that's something worth saving $600 to you... had I known this or was more familiar with the wiring, I'd at least have given it a shot...
Could u post screen cap of invoice? does it clarify which wiring they were looking at?
I'm sure it'll be helpful to someone...
 
Your system can be DIY repaired. IME working in transport refrigeration, doing it yourself leads to noncondensibles in the system and the start of it’s downfall.
It’s not rocket science but it’s not tieing your shoes either. If you can find the leak, how are you at silver brazing in tight spots without burning anything? You’ll also need a micron gauge to verify that you have fully dehydrated and and sealed the system.
Sure it can be DIY, and if you’re selling it just top it off. I think most people will only use a gauge manifold and wrongly accept the vacuum reading.
 
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Per Invoice:

Preformed an evac and recharge, found no leaks. Refrigerant level was slightly lower then spec.Found broken a wire on the high side refrigerant line. Repaired wiring and tested HVAC system.Verified proper operation.



I had never been impressed with my car's AC, but maybe it had been an issue much longer than I realized, as after repair, it's devastatingly cold, as it should be...

Often my car will sit in the hot sun all day long, then I'll try to cool it down, and it would work, it would just take a while. I'll be interested to see how much more quickly it cools down now.

For a while, I'd have to turn my climate temp down, then up, then down, then up on longer trips. but never had that issue in my wife's car, or other cars. I'm guessing the AC just wasn't coming on when it was being told to.

Hopefully this fixes that as well.
 
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Per Invoice:

Preformed an evac and recharge, found no leaks. Refrigerant level was slightly lower then spec.Found broken a wire on the high side refrigerant line. Repaired wiring and tested HVAC system.Verified proper operation.



I had never been impressed with my car's AC, but maybe it had been an issue much longer than I realized, as after repair, it's devastatingly cold, as it should be...

Often my car will sit in the hot sun all day long, then I'll try to cool it down, and it would work, it would just take a while. I'll be interested to see how much more quickly it cools down now.

For a while, I'd have to turn my climate temp down, then up, then down, then up on longer trips. but never had that issue in my wife's car, or other cars. I'm guessing the AC just wasn't coming on when it was being told to.

Hopefully this fixes that as well.
Thanks.
My guess would be its the High pressure sensor wiring that is needed to prevent over pressure n also what activates cooling fan
Without fan AC performance would definitely be poor... but usually its more noticeable while standing, cause when driving u have natural air flow to cool condenser...
 
Thanks.
My guess would be its the High pressure sensor wiring that is needed to prevent over pressure n also what activates cooling fan
Without fan AC performance would definitely be poor... but usually its more noticeable while standing, cause when driving u have natural air flow to cool condenser...

I would see improved performance while moving, at least with the limited testing of a few stop lights...
performance was also better the colder it was outside.
 
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I just thought of something. Tessie records interior temp. Usually I set it to 72/74, but with the AC not working right, I'd have to adjust it often, but keep in mind, I wanted to keep it that temp...
this is before the A/C was fixed:

1691089909542.png


very odd patterns, with a lot of fluctuation.

1691089952528.png
 
Now look at the chart, after the A/C was fixed (shorter trip, but might have more data next week).

1691090056852.png

it gets to temp, and just holds it.

damn I wish I reported this while it was under warranty. I thought the temp changes were just in my head. UGH.

98 to 74 degrees in 2 minutes. Well, at least thanks to Tessie I know there is a significant improvement. (not to mention my level of sweat).
 
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Maybe try the portable refrigerant kits at auto zone. They are around $60-150 and the YouTube videos help a lot. Everyone says that it's a closed system and all that. And that's true but sometimes it's near impossible to find the leak. I'd would top it off first and if it works for at least a year, you know that you don't have a significant leak.