Alignment numbers on My Model S

[S-ALSET]

I just came back from Tires Plus, I have the free alignment program for life. And this time I requested the numbers after the work was done.
Here they are, I hope someone can shed some light on these I have no idea what to look for. I do know that the tread in the inside of the rear passenger tire was completely gone. and that 21% seems pretty high and not corrected from the "before measurements"...
Should I get some N2itive camber arms? I did read somewhere in TMC that the alignment could be done almost to 100% with the stock arms.

Any comments and suggestions are really appreciated!

 

[GHammer]

Go and get your lifetime money back and take it somewhere else. That is a horrible rear alignment. Your problem is the huge negative toe on the rear (.13 deg left, .21right). Rear toe should be very close to zero, no wonder your inner tread is worn. Don't worry about camber arms untill you fix that rear toe.

 

[Sweed269]

You have a lot of camber in the rear and the toe looks okay. Fixing the camber takes aftermarket parts.
The rear inner edge is going to wear at an accelerated rate.

 

[GHammer]

You have a lot of camber in the rear and the toe looks okay.

How is large, out of spec negative toe okay?

 

[Sweed269]

Rear toe should be in or -.20. The red bar is wrong.
I too prefer and recommend -.05 to .00 toe in all the way around.

 

[GHammer]

Rear toe should be in or -.20. The red bar is wrong.
I too prefer and recommend -.05 to .00 toe in all the way around.

No, negative toe (toe out) should never exceed .05. Any more than that will surely kill the inner tread.

 

[Sweed269]

Your right. Toe out will make for a unstable car.

 

[AAKEE]

As GHammer says, negative toe and negative camber does not mix well.
It does’nt look that well in my eyes, that protocol.

Negative camber will ”walk on the inside” and negative toe will make the tyre try to strive outwards ending up with the tyres inside skidding/creeping when they can not continue outwards

Negative camber will normally wear more on the inside, but toe in can compensate for this, at least partly.

Looks like a S Palladium, these should have sufficient adjustment range to reach a accceptable amount of toe (in).

My car (S 2023) had toe out all around the car and had began to destroy the inner of the rears shortly after delivery.

This is N2itive recommended settings.
(I do run completely stock links yet but will go N2itive if needed)

Set the car in the height you plan to drive most.

Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.10°.

Total Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.20°

Rear Toe: 0.05° to 0.35° We recommend 0.10° to 0.20°

Total Rear Toe: 0.20° to 0.40°

I had all the numbers from n2itive with me and had them to set the car up very precise according to this.
My car is set in low and I slways drive in low (except very short part like road constuction etc.)

-Front is +00°05’ on each, +00°10 in total ( Positive, so toe in)
-Rear is +00°15’ on each, +00°30’ in total (again, positive, toe in).

 

[supermac]

You dont have to live with high camber and crazy tire wear. Get your rear toe straight in low.. where the car normally drives. Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber? - MACSBOOST.com.

 

[Kohley]

As GHammer says, negative toe and negative camber does not mix well.
It does’nt look that well in my eyes, that protocol.

Negative camber will ”walk on the inside” and negative toe will make the tyre try to strive outwards ending up with the tyres inside skidding/creeping when they can not continue outwards

Negative camber will normally wear more on the inside, but toe in can compensate for this, at least partly.

Looks like a S Palladium, these should have sufficient adjustment range to reach a accceptable amount of toe (in).

My car (S 2023) had toe out all around the car and had began to destroy the inner of the rears shortly after delivery.

This is N2itive recommended settings.
(I do run completely stock links yet but will go N2itive if needed)

Set the car in the height you plan to drive most.







I had all the numbers from n2itive with me and had them to set the car up very precise according to this.
My car is set in low and I slways drive in low (except very short part like road constuction etc.)

-Front is +00°05’ on each, +00°10 in total ( Positive, so toe in)
-Rear is +00°15’ on each, +00°30’ in total (again, positive, toe in).

I agree with these alignment specs, you don't want toe out. On a road course, a little toe out in front will make the car initially turn in quicker in the corner, I used to run 1/16 to 1/8th out on shorter road courses in race cars, but this will wear the front tires more on the street. In the back you don't want toe out, it can make the car step out in back too quickly when entering the corner quickly. For camber, 1/2 degree to 0 is plenty in front and back, you will get better straight line traction versus -1.5 to -2 degrees, and that much added camber only helps cornering at the limit anyway, most don't go there. Some toe in and 1/2 degree or less camber will help tires last longer, this is the way to go.

 

[AAKEE]

I run 1.5 degree negative camber rear on my M3P (lowered ~ 35mm with the stock camber arms) No tyre destruction issue, but off course slightly more wear on the inside but even distribution over the whole with.

I did get a new set lf summer Tyres + rims to my MSP.
245/40-20e-Primacy for low rolling resistance, so far they have rolled 1000km only but by the look of the thread area its good. No mad wear on the inner wall like the stock 21” had from the bad stock alignment. The stock 21” has not weared strange after the alignment byt still looks strange after the initial drive with negative camber + toe out.

If needed I will change camber arms (or maybe space out the stock ones) but as the half shafts was vibrating before i felt worried to make top much mods ( that might get Tesla on other thoughts for warranty).

 

[Kohley]

I run 1.5 degree negative camber rear on my M3P (lowered ~ 35mm with the stock camber arms) No tyre destruction issue, but off course slightly more wear on the inside but even distribution over the whole with.

I did get a new set lf summer Tyres + rims to my MSP.
245/40-20e-Primacy for low rolling resistance, so far they have rolled 1000km only but by the look of the thread area its good. No mad wear on the inner wall like the stock 21” had from the bad stock alignment. The stock 21” has not weared strange after the alignment byt still looks strange after the initial drive with negative camber + toe out.

If needed I will change camber arms (or maybe space out the stock ones) but as the half shafts was vibrating before i felt worried to make top much mods ( that might get Tesla on other thoughts for warranty).

I run the stock 19s on my plaid without the hub caps, I like the look, although 20's and 21's do look better. i don't want it any stiffer so will stay with the 19's, running 38 psi for best ride, almost full comfort, but full sport in advanced. It still has good enough turn in and grip for the street in spirited driving. My track set up would be much different for fastest lap times.

I do appreciate your expertise around battery usage, very helpful, thanks for sharing your knowledge!