For me the story is a bit different, right now at 100% charge I get about 267 miles.
Do you know what your current rated range at 100% translates into in real life miles?
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For me the story is a bit different, right now at 100% charge I get about 267 miles.
Do you know what your current rated range at 100% translates into in real life miles?
This isn't really a meaningful question, since the answer can be so varied. The 267 miles is really all we need (given the other data he's given - namely that he's done 100%->1% discharges and he still gets the same 100%). That's the available energy estimate which is what matters.
All else being equal, he'll be able to get 15% fewer real life miles than a new vehicle. Meaning exactly the same drive (with consistent Wh/mi throughout the drive, of course, otherwise the % difference in real-life miles would be different if there were a big hill at the end or something).
This isn't really a question with a useful answer, since the answer can be so varied. The 267 rated miles at 100% is really all we need (given the other data he's given - namely that he's done 100%->1% discharges and he still gets the same 100%). That's the available energy estimate which is what matters.
All else being equal, he'll be able to get 15% fewer real-life miles than a new vehicle. Meaning exactly the same drive (with consistent Wh/mi throughout the drive, of course, otherwise the % difference in real-life miles would be different, if there were a big hill at the end or something).
Sounds like this was a continuous 100% to 1% discharge (no park)
Story checks out:
267rmi * 230Wh/rmi * 0.99 = 60.8kWh
Note the use of the 230Wh/rmi constant (it is arguably as high as 234Wh/rmi but I've never seen that) - shows that the 245Wh/rmi constant that some people insist on is only for the charging event (as detailed above).
A new battery should give you 310rmi*230Wh/rmi = 71.3kWh. (With 234Wh/rmi it would be 72.5kWh)
(This number doesn't have anything to do with the actual battery capacity of course - it is a scaled (by about 0.955) version of the capacity - but it does show you the relative degradation - which of course is 15%.)
Keep hoping for that "cannot charge to 100%" message! What sort of driving do you do where you have to routinely do this sort of length drive?
I interpret this a meaning that if you get in the car with 100% battery and drive until it reports 1% and look at the watt hours consumed for that trip that the number is 61 kWh. This implies usable capacity of 61/(1 - .01) = 61.6 kWh. I assume the S LR has a 100 kW hr battery which has about 98 kWh capacity when new in which case your battery has degraded to 62% of its capacity and that is certainly not normal for 6 months ownership.
Now if you are looking at the "Since Last Charge" number this usage has occurred over several days and if you have preconditioned the car etc phantom or other drains may have lowered the SoC but these are not counted by the Trip OD's kWh calculations and it is possible to see a 99% SoC reduction with only 61 kWh having gone into consumption while the car is moving. For this reason battery capacity is calculated from charging data. If you charge from 1% to 100% (please don't do this often) and the BMS reports that only 61 kWh was added to the battery that really means that the capacity of the battery is 61.6 kWh and that really is an indicator of a serious battery problem.
So collect charging data using TeslaFi or a similar app. If you consistently find kWh_added/(End_SoC/100 - Start_SoC/100) is around 61 kW then you have a solid argument that there is a problem and a tech who understands will clearly see it.
Collect some battery capacity data as described above and show it to him. A sample plot would look like this (just look at the little circles for now).
View attachment 460997
The caution that goes with this is that the accuracy of the estimated battery capacity as estimated from a charge is directly proportional to the percent SoC difference between start and end. Thus an estimate for a charge for 10% to 60% is 5 times more accurate that one from a 30% to 40% charge. Try, therefore, to charge at least 50%. In this sample plot the accuracy of each estimate is shown as the vertical bar under the circle which represents the estimate. In drawing the trend line those accuracies are considered. Even with the wild points and none of the fancy math it's clear that the capacity of this battery is about 98 kWh. If all the points were distributed about the 60 kWh line that would be a very strong argument that the battery capacity is about 60 kWh and that either the battery is flawed or the BMS is not reading its status properly. Keep in mind that this data is taken from the car's BMS through the API. It is what the car itself has reported.
Now I recognize that all this is easy for me to say because of 50 years experience doing this kind of data analysis and am aware that someone with no technical background would probably not be able to advance this argument as assertively as I believe I could (but not in Swedish). My suggestion would be to seek the assistance of a friend, colleague or family member who could do the analysis and/or make the argument for you.
Do you know what your current rated range at 100% translates into in real life miles?
Reason for my question:
Such a rapid drop in rated range is very unlikely to be plain degradation, rather it's more likely an issue with the pack.
There are reports here (saw one thread recently) of a condition where the rated range drops precipitously as the battery reaches a low state of charge. Bjorn experienced the same behavior during his first EQC test and it turned out that a battery module was defective and had to be replaced. In the OP's case, there's already a steep initial drop, but that may be masking a larger drop that may become apparent only at a lower state of charge.
As everyone else here, I'm curious about such failure patterns and am interested in learning about them.
Start the video at the 1:25 minute mark, note that at the 3:06 minute mark is where Tesla needed to get approval and did the hard reset to get the numbers back:
Thanks D.Have them try a CAC reset (if they are willing) to see if it is just a calibration issue.
Battery Degradation "fix"? : teslamotors
That varies depending on my driving, high speed highway is around 170 miles.
Sounds like this was a continuous 100% to 1% discharge (no park)
Story checks out:
267rmi * 230Wh/rmi * 0.99 = 60.8kWh
Note the use of the 230Wh/rmi constant (it is arguably as high as 234Wh/rmi but I've never seen that) - shows that the 245Wh/rmi constant that some people insist on is only for the charging event (as detailed above).
A new battery should give you 310rmi*230Wh/rmi = 71.3kWh. (With 234Wh/rmi it would be 72.5kWh)
(This number doesn't have anything to do with the actual battery capacity of course - it is a scaled (by about 0.955) version of the capacity - but it does show you the relative degradation - which of course is 15%.)
Keep hoping for that "cannot charge to 100%" message! What sort of driving do you do where you have to routinely do this sort of length drive?
What is "rmi"? At first I thought it was a typo, but I see it repeated, so it must be intentional. What does the 'r' stand for?
Rated miles. It's just what I use to avoid confusion with quotes of "Wh/mi" (which is actual efficiency).
Rated miles are essentially a measure of energy - there is a constant relationship between Wh and each rated mile (for a given vehicle type & trim).
Wh are measured, miles are measured. Where does the "rating" come in? I don't understand how you are using this term. The rated mileage is just a number you use for approximating based on a specific course.