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Reversing out of a parking space we heard a very loud sound followed by a grinding/scraping noise from the front right. At first we thought we'd run over something, but there was nothing under or anywhere near the car. Moving the car forwards, the car felt like it first jacked up a bit on the front right, then moved smoothly, but still with the scraping noise. Since we were very close to home we drove home at very low speed with varying degrees of scraping and other noises whenever we went over bumps.

Tesla towed the car to Watertown and are replacing a control arm as I write this the next day.

There have been several reports of this kind of failure happening, so I wonder if they've got a systematic problem.
The exact same thing happened to me on 7/18/19 in my 2017 Model S 90D (16,500 miles) while backing out of the driveway wheels turned left. Tesla replaced the broken fore link on the left control arm and also replaced the intact fore link on the right under warranty. I have reported the control arm failure to NHTSA.
 
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I have just experienced the same lower control arm failure on my 2017 Model S 75D with 19,404 miles. I was backing out of my garage down a curved driveway. Loud crunch.
Tesla is making me pay for the tow to an authorized Tesla body shop for the repair. Still up for discussion as to who is paying for the repairs.
I have had Jaguars and BMWs and I have never had those dealers insist that I pay for a tow and serious mechanical failures under warranty..and that BMW 335i had some serious cooling problems.
Based on the number of posts on this site since 2017, Tesla knows full well this is a common problem. Wonder why they are pretending that it isn't?
 
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Why are they sending you to a body shop for this? This is a mechanical problem that should only be repaired at a Tesla Service Center. If this did result in body damage, it would make more sense to fix the mechanical problem first, then send the car off for body repair.
Good question. Not that this is what happened...… but, there are a few situations where Tesla will point you to an independent approved repair shop. One example is if another car hits a front wheel and causes the damage to the wheel and isn't the result of a failure.
 
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I just joined the broken forelink club. My 2015 S P90D developed an erratic low "thump" sound from the front end while driving home - fortunately on low speed streets. Next day I planned to take it to the service center to have it checked, but while backing out of the driveway, turning the wheel to the right to join the street, it made an ominous crunching sound and shut off. Finally, the car rebooted and I slowly moved up the driveway and stopped. When I turned the wheel to the right, I could see the tire hitting the rear of the wheel well - the car again shut itself off. I called Tesla roadside service, a flatbed came, the car rebooted long enough to straighten the wheels and get the car on the truck. The truck driver said he had seen this before, and that whole wheel wells had disintegrated.

They replaced both forelinks with "Improved" parts. It is frightening to think of what would have happened at 75 mph on the freeway!

I'm not sure how much I trust the repair from what I have read in this forum, but I will certainly keep an ear out for low-frequency thumps - another vigilance task. This should have been a recall. Shame on Tesla . . .
 
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Did you verify yourself that the part number was the updated one? Them performing undocumented work on your car seems super shady.

It's not like service techs haven't been wrong before.

There's no part number stamped or sticker on the control arm. One of their techs looked at and told me it was the updated part and pointed out what the difference was. He said they'd been proactively replacing those parts whenever they're doing work in near the suspension.

I emailed the service adviser right after that and explained to her what he'd said as receipt of the fact that they claimed it was the updated part on the off chance it were to fail in the future because it's not really the revised part.
 
Joined the MX Upper Control Arm club, rubbing noise on turning wheels started a couple weeks ago. Had annual service scheduled for today. Tech listened and looked, said upper control arm on left needs replacing and right while they are at it. Weekend on loaner. Oct 16 90D just turned over 32k -all miles on the small island of Oahu and other than occasional pothole no rough riding...
In last 20 years never had a suspension part problem with Lexus other than punctured dust boot on a shaft link.
 
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Had my control arm break this morning while I was doing 70mph on the PA Turnpike. Talk about a scary situation. Luckily I was in the right lane but the whole front left tire locked up and I was barely able to get it to the side of the road. The tire ended up pushing against the rear of the wheel well and rubbed right through to the battery and my coolant all leaked out in addition. The tire has a gouge around the whole thing where it rubbed.

I am not under warranty and this will likely cost an arm and a leg. I already submitted to NHTSA with pictures.

For reference, this is a 2015 P85D with Air and 113,000 miles.
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Isn't this:
the whole front left tire locked up

sort of incompatible with this:

The tire ended up pushing against the rear of the wheel well and rubbed right through to the battery and my coolant all leaked out in addition. The tire has a gouge around the whole thing where it rubbed.

It sounds like the wheel was still turning, just rubbing hard against the body.