Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Anyone else leave Sentry Mode on 24/7?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
For the last few months, I've been in a summer rental and leave my car in an assigned spot in the complex. I now leave Sentry Mode on 24/7 and am wondering if anyone else has some long-term data on this.

Any issues with the cameras or computer staying on 24/7? Between dash cam and Sentry Mode, the cameras and the computer are never off... so I'm wondering if they'll fail early since my guess is they were never designed to be 'always on'
 
There are a few theoretical problems with this, since as you point out, it was never designed to operate like this.

First is battery wear. Even without driving, you're pulling a 300W average power with Sentry on. This works out to 2628kWh/year (assuming it was truly 24/7 - realistically you'll be driving for some number of hours). In other words, this is equivalent to 11,600mi/year of extra battery wear. If you don't drive a lot, easily half of your battery wear would actually come from Sentry mode rather than driving, but you don't have a counter showing this. That could mean instead of the 500,000mi expected lifetime of your battery (LR model), it would be merely 250,000mi if this behaviour was kept up.

Now financially, at just $0.12/kWh, this is about $350/year (assuming a 90% efficient charging setup). You could get a decent dedicated dashcam setup with internal battery that serves the same role as Sentry at this cost, and that's just one year. Or perhaps a fixed installation webcam. Some say this is cheap insurance, but it really isn't in my opinion. The clips you would get from your window being smashed or something are unlikely to make a financial difference after dealing with insurance, unless insurance fraud was suspected (which the footage would hardly rule out anyways). Remember the alarm system still works even without Sentry mode on.

Finally, there's additional wear related to the cooling system. The coolant pumps now run 24/7 instead of as-needed, since the computers are liquid cooled. It's unclear to me if this matters much, but it's notable that they're not engineered with this use-case in mind. I suspect this isn't a big deal really, especially compared to the battery wear.

Miscellaneous things like "wear" on the computers (boards, chips) and cameras are negligible and not of any concern.

tl;dr version: Yes, there are issues. There are also cheaper and better solutions if you still really want the video footage.
 
I really never thought of getting concerned about this. I got an SSD drive for our Sentry/Dashcam for our Model X when it was new last year (June 2019). Ever since I turned it on back then, I have never turned it off, except every so often when I go below 50ish miles of range and it turns off automatically. Also, sometime early this year, I notice there was an option to turn it off when at home in my garage, so I did that then. Otherwise, it's on all the time.
 
My question is, if the car is plugged into a home charger, would the battery still undergo wear if sentry mode is on?

Yes. It doesn't stay "connected" to the charger for only that amount of power. It will let the state of charge drop, then charge it back up, and repeat.

Which made me realise the 12V battery might be going through this cycling too actually, which isn't good for it either. But I can't say that with any confidence, I haven't been able to make much sense of how the 12V system operates.

360 degree view ?

You can sorta get this with a camera pointed rearward from the front, and frontward from the rear. It's not an uncommon setup, and the higher position can usually see faces better than the car's cameras.
 
Thanks for the info. It almost seems like an oversight on Tesla’s part to not operate phantom draining systems on the car directly off the mains if it’s possible to do so. AFAIK, this is how IPhones operate. When at 100% and plugged in, they don’t just constantly drain to 98% and then go back up to 100%.
 
Thanks for the info. It almost seems like an oversight on Tesla’s part to not operate phantom draining systems on the car directly off the mains if it’s possible to do so. AFAIK, this is how IPhones operate. When at 100% and plugged in, they don’t just constantly drain to 98% and then go back up to 100%.

To be utterly fair, the onboard charger isn't designed to operate 24/7 either. In fact, the charger modules (3 in LR, 2 in SR+) seem to have a relatively high failure rate, so running them full time would be costly (replacement is not cheap, and apparently isn't part of the battery warranty but the shorter vehicle warranty). This isn't to say the failure rates are high (I do not know), just higher than we'd expect. Keeping voltage actively applied to the pack at all times probably isn't good either. They could do some funny tricks perhaps with the 12V and the PCS, but that's just shuffling which components are ok to wear out.

I would be surprised if iPhones don't operate the same way honestly. My old 4 did. My Android phones all do this. Every tool battery charger I have does this. It's not super apparent behaviour because it maybe drops to 99% then comes back up.
 
To be utterly fair, the onboard charger isn't designed to operate 24/7 either. In fact, the charger modules (3 in LR, 2 in SR+) seem to have a relatively high failure rate, so running them full time would be costly (replacement is not cheap, and apparently isn't part of the battery warranty but the shorter vehicle warranty). This isn't to say the failure rates are high (I do not know), just higher than we'd expect. Keeping voltage actively applied to the pack at all times probably isn't good either. They could do some funny tricks perhaps with the 12V and the PCS, but that's just shuffling which components are ok to wear out.

I would be surprised if iPhones don't operate the same way honestly. My old 4 did. My Android phones all do this. Every tool battery charger I have does this. It's not super apparent behaviour because it maybe drops to 99% then comes back up.

I’ve never seen my phone drop and come back up. Are you sure you’re observing that 1% drop because power is being pulled from the battery or is it because a lithium ion battery at 100% discharges itself and a trickle charge is applied by the charger to bring it back to full? Or because modern battery gauges aren’t displaying accurate numbers to account for human behavior and expectations.

I get really mixed opinions about phones when I try to research this and exactly what they’re doing. What I will say is I know there are some devices that operate this way such as my old dell laptop since I could take the battery out while it’s charging without interrupting a YouTube video. (Or put it back in for that matter).

I can’t say I’ve ever seen a charger in any electronic device ever fail nor personally heard of anyone I know having one that failed.

definitely have had lithium ion batteries wear down to a useless max SoC or completely fail altogether.

I’m not convinced this should be that difficult.
 
I don't run Sentry Mode 24/7 because it's a waste of energy (as noted by a few people above, the ICE computers stay on and use 300 Watts). But I do have a Blackvue dual dashcam that records 24/7. I installed that way before Tesla enabled their cameras for dashcam and Sentry modes and it's way more efficient in energy use since it's purpose-built. The Blackvue dual dashcam uses about 6 Watts and I have it hooked into the harness that goes to the map lights.

The only benefit to me with Sentry Mode is the added side views, and the clearer rear view. The Blackvue front view is better because it's wide angle and you can see the hood and A-pillars.

My ideal solution would be to hook the Blackvue system into the Tesla cameras, but that would be difficult and expensive.
 
I don't run Sentry Mode 24/7 because it's a waste of energy (as noted by a few people above, the ICE computers stay on and use 300 Watts). But I do have a Blackvue dual dashcam that records 24/7. I installed that way before Tesla enabled their cameras for dashcam and Sentry modes and it's way more efficient in energy use since it's purpose-built. The Blackvue dual dashcam uses about 6 Watts and I have it hooked into the harness that goes to the map lights.

The only benefit to me with Sentry Mode is the added side views, and the clearer rear view. The Blackvue front view is better because it's wide angle and you can see the hood and A-pillars.

My ideal solution would be to hook the Blackvue system into the Tesla cameras, but that would be difficult and expensive.
Kind of similar situation. I keep my Blackvue running on a separate battery and connected to the cloud by WiFi.
I received alerts when there is an incident and I can access my camera in realtime from my phone.
I use Sentry only when I park in a parking like in a shopping mall, because of the side cameras.
 
Last edited:
I leave my car parked for days at a time in a parking deck at the airport. Always with Sentry on. My car never loses more than 1-3% of charge per day*. Doing some table napkin math, that would be less than 100W per hour (Prob somewhere between 70-95W on average).

Where is this 300W number coming from? If it was really 300W I’d be losing ~10% per day.

*This measurement, of course, includes all draw on the battery (not just sentry mode).
 
Yes. It doesn't stay "connected" to the charger for only that amount of power. It will let the state of charge drop, then charge it back up, and repeat.

Not sure where you get your "facts" from but many of the things you're saying are completely untrue.

If the car is plugged in, it pulls from the outlet. Only if electrical needs exceed what the outlet provides then it uses the battery.

To be utterly fair, the onboard charger isn't designed to operate 24/7 either.

Tesla literally says to keep your car plugged in 24/7 if being stored for an extended period of time and that "A plugged in Tesla is a happy Tesla."
 
Last edited:
I’ve never seen my phone drop and come back up. Are you sure you’re observing that 1% drop because power is being pulled from the battery or is it because a lithium ion battery at 100% discharges itself and a trickle charge is applied by the charger to bring it back to full? Or because modern battery gauges aren’t displaying accurate numbers to account for human behavior and expectations.

I get really mixed opinions about phones when I try to research this and exactly what they’re doing. What I will say is I know there are some devices that operate this way such as my old dell laptop since I could take the battery out while it’s charging without interrupting a YouTube video. (Or put it back in for that matter).

I can’t say I’ve ever seen a charger in any electronic device ever fail nor personally heard of anyone I know having one that failed.

definitely have had lithium ion batteries wear down to a useless max SoC or completely fail altogether.

I’m not convinced this should be that difficult.

I mean, they clearly aren't displaying accurate numbers. I had a phone that displayed "Fully Charged" with no percent until you unplugged, and sometimes it would be 98% right after unplugging. This could be inaccuracy or intentionally hiding the fact the charge behaviour actually does let it drop.

I've also seen videos with USB voltage/ammeter devices monitoring the charge, though on Android phones. By all measurements, these devices effectively disconnected from USB power after being fully charged (implying that it neither was subsisting off USB power nor keeping the charger active on the battery). Therefore, these absolutely are using the top-up cycles after letting the SoC drop a small amount (which may be small enough to evade perception via the coarse percentage numbers we see).

Laptops are a bit different as you noted. Some (not all) can work off of the charger connection without the battery. Further, some more powerful laptops need to use both battery power and adapter power because neither is sufficient to cover the power draw at maximum load. The Tesla is unlike a laptop in both regards here. The HV battery can provide way more power than the wall ever could, and it's not designed to function normally without the HV battery.

It's not that it's necessarily difficult to do the way you're thinking, it just has implications that aren't desirable. Keeping voltage applied to Li-ion batteries isn't good (mostly for 100% charge), which is why chargers don't do this and instead do top-up cycles. If you find a charger that keeps voltage applied after a full charge, this 1) is dangerous and 2) basically doesn't exist, even in cheap/sketchy devices (the chips to manage this are dirt cheap and produced in high volumes).

I leave my car parked for days at a time in a parking deck at the airport. Always with Sentry on. My car never loses more than 1-3% of charge per day*. Doing some table napkin math, that would be less than 100W per hour (Prob somewhere between 70-95W on average).

Where is this 300W number coming from? If it was really 300W I’d be losing ~10% per day.

*This measurement, of course, includes all draw on the battery (not just sentry mode).

300W comes from multiple ways to calculate it that agree with each other. It seems to range between 250W-350W. Measuring changes in SoC is certainly one way, and is pretty accurate when compared with a known kWh value for the pack (which can be easily determined by the reported range, if nothing else). Data off the CAN bus, e.g. via ScanMyTesla, is another way to determine this.

If I assume you have an LR, 2%/day (24h period) is closer to 60W. 60W is about the average it uses when not in Sentry mode. Either something is being calculated wrong or you don't actually have Sentry on somehow (or yours is magically more efficient than pretty much everyone else on this forum).

Not sure where you get your "facts" from but many of the things you're saying are completely untrue.

If the car is plugged in, it pulls from the outlet. Only if electrical needs exceed what the outlet provides then it uses the battery.

They come from many ways that corroborate each other. Here's a simple way to tell without any other hardware or software:
  • Plug in your car with the UMC. Wait until charge is done. The screen should indicate it's not internally connected and charging by displaying something like "0/32A" and 1-3V. The low voltage is especially indicative that the onboard charger is not active, and is our first evidence that being plugged in does not necessarily mean it is charging or having power provided from the wall.
  • Stand by the UMC and turn on Sentry Mode. If this causes it to start charging, you'll hear a click from the UMC. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. In my experience, most times it won't. If you stay there for a while, it will eventually click and start charging (and at this point, you should be able to see that on the app as well probably) because the SoC has dropped enough that it will top up the charge. It will eventually click off again as well.
  • Turn on the climate control to a setting that will draw a lot of power (very cold or very hot). You should definitely hear it click now, because it will activate the charger in this case.
Other ways you can monitor this (and far more accurately):
  • Power monitoring device like a Kill A Watt. When it's only drawing a few watts, the car isn't actually using it (this is just the "sleep" power of the UMC itself).
  • Monitoring powers via CAN bus, with apps like ScanMyTesla.
I have done all of the above, and they all paint the same picture I previously posted. That is where I get my facts from. My car could behave different from all others, but this is unlikely (and many on these forums have confirmed the same behaviours).

Tesla literally says to keep your car plugged in 24/7 if being stored for an extended period of time and that "A plugged in Tesla is a happy Tesla."

There is an important difference between being plugged in and the car charging. The car can be plugged in without charging, and this is actually the most common state if you keep it plugged in 24/7.
 
I leave my car parked for days at a time in a parking deck at the airport. Always with Sentry on. My car never loses more than 1-3% of charge per day*. Doing some table napkin math, that would be less than 100W per hour (Prob somewhere between 70-95W on average).

Where is this 300W number coming from? If it was really 300W I’d be losing ~10% per day.

*This measurement, of course, includes all draw on the battery (not just sentry mode).
I think you are right. My own quick calculations yielded 90 W. This makes sense because back in Autonomy Day in 2019 when the FSD (aka HW3) computer was talked about they mentioned how they made it way more capable while staying within the same thermal envelope of 100 W. The FSD (or older HW2.5) computer stays on while the Tesla dashcam or Sentry Mode is on because it processes the camera feeds. The MCU is probably on too because the USB ports interface with that.
 
I think you are right. My own quick calculations yielded 90 W. This makes sense because back in Autonomy Day in 2019 when the FSD (aka HW3) computer was talked about they mentioned how they made it way more capable while staying within the same thermal envelope of 100 W. The FSD (or older HW2.5) computer stays on while the Tesla dashcam or Sentry Mode is on because it processes the camera feeds. The MCU is probably on too because the USB ports interface with that.

I should've done this breakdown in my other post.

Primary things that are active:
  • AP Computer
  • MCU Computer
  • Coolant pumps (yes, this is significant!)
  • DC-DC conversion (HV to 12V, some losses)
Many other lower-power parts are awake too, e.g. the vehicle controllers. This all adds up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: android04
300W comes from multiple ways to calculate it that agree with each other. It seems to range between 250W-350W. Measuring changes in SoC is certainly one way, and is pretty accurate when compared with a known kWh value for the pack (which can be easily determined by the reported range, if nothing else). Data off the CAN bus, e.g. via ScanMyTesla, is another way to determine this.

If I assume you have an LR, 2%/day (24h period) is closer to 60W. 60W is about the average it uses when not in Sentry mode. Either something is being calculated wrong or you don't actually have Sentry on somehow (or yours is magically more efficient than pretty much everyone else on this forum.

I have the M3P (not that it makes a difference), it’s still a 75kWh battery. Yes sentry mode works fine. I get the alerts and video when I return to the car. In the early days of sentry mode, it did drain the battery faster, maybe 5% a day. Not surprisingly, they must have improved the power draw in the form of a SW update later on.

It really shouldn’t take more than 30W to power all the cams, the SW and the storage. I have PoE cams that only pull about 3.5W and they each do motion detection, networking and store video on SD Cards (and stream video to an NVR). I don’t expect Tesla’s Cams to be so efficient as that isn’t what the system was originally designed for, but 300W is far more than needed.

Sounds like others (in this thread) also pull less than 100W.
 
First is battery wear. Even without driving, you're pulling a 300W average power with Sentry on.

To me, this does not add up.

My lifetime average is 276 Wh/mile on 65K miles LR AWD 2018 M3 (19 month old), which while driving, actively have all cameras (essentially Sentry mode), radar/sonar sensors, and 2 motors, plus HVAC etc running.

How does it translate that active Sentry on a M3 in standstill consumes 300W, vs 276W on an M3 driving with all system go?