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Given that two different 60A breakers tripped when the car was reading 48A draw, I think we can conclude that the ammeter is correct and that the Tesla Wall Connector is defective.
1. A loose connection with high resistance can act just like reported.
2. Adding the personal dig at the end of your post.
P.S. It's totally uncool to add a disagree to my post as retaliation.
I'd believe you if I had said there was something wrong with the wall connector (I didn't), and if you hadn't waited until after my thumbs down to do it. I'm removing my thumb's down because I don't believe in using a thumb's down if I'm part of the conversation.I disagree that there is something wrong with the wall connector. It’s not retaliation.
I'd believe you if I had said there was something wrong with the wall connector (I didn't), and if you hadn't waited until after my thumbs down to do it. I'm removing my thumb's down because I don't believe in using a thumb's down if I'm part of the conversation.
Sigh, qdeathstar has it out for me ever since I called him out for replying to this thread 60 posts in without having realized that the post he was replying to had been answered and beaten to death. BTW, appeals to authority ("not an electrician") aren't cool either, qdeathstar and are misplaced too. You can find plenty of electricians who don't adhere to code, say incorrect things on forums, etc.
Actually, I've been thinking about your explanation, and I believe that you can't treat the on-board charger as if it had a fixed resistance. It will adjust until IT is drawing what it wants.You suggested he stop using it…. In any case, I’m glad you are no longer trying to defend incorrect statements.
Actually, I've been thinking about your explanation, and I believe that you can't treat the on-board charger as if it had a fixed resistance. It will adjust until IT is drawing what it wants.
Surely you don't think he should use it while it's drawing much more that it should.
Yes, let’s leave the misleading statements to the licensed electricians, as is customary.Being that you are not a licensed electrician, I would avoid making misleading statements.
Exactly.Yes, let’s leave the misleading statements to the licensed electricians, as is customary.
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HPWC has line side current limiting fuses....And being that the wall connector is essentially a contactor (and does not limit the current in any way) if there is a defect it is most likely with the car charger itself and not the wall connector.
Actually, I've been thinking about your explanation, and I believe that you can't treat the on-board charger as if it had a fixed resistance. It will adjust until IT is drawing what it wants.
Surely you don't think he should use it while it's drawing much more that it should.
I meant in a way that limits the current to its output setting. Eg, lowering the current to 32 amps from the max output of 48 amps. Or being defective in a way that would allow more current to flow. The fuses are binary and are meant to protect the unit from short circuits. Not limit the current as a normal function (the way constant current drivers do, or the way the on board car chargers does). The evse isn’t what limits current to the car.HPWC has line side current limiting fuses.
It isn’t only that. It you did use a 55A breaker, then you’d also have to set your EVSE to 44A charge rate, and most EVSEs don’t have that setting. It is either 48A or 40A charge rate to pair with the 60A and 50A breakers that are in use.After spending half my life reading this thread. the biggest take away I have learned is this thread would not exist (or be only 1 page) if there was a 55amp breaker. people would get 6 awg Romex and put in a 55amp breaker. I think manufactures of breakers are reading the thread and laughing over the torture Tesla owners are experiencing. I'll put in a 50 and hope 55s are made, in the future, to fill the gap. 38mph charge rate should get me full after 8 hours.