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Anyone use this Romex 6/3 cable during install?
- Thread starter Dugdale
- Start date
Given that two different 60A breakers tripped when the car was reading 48A draw, I think we can conclude that the ammeter is correct and that the Tesla Wall Connector is defective.
davewill
Active Member
Nobody has bothered to say this, but you shouldn't use this wall connector until the problem is sorted. I'd wager that something somewhere is getting seriously HOT, and that's how fires start.
No, we can’t. According to the poster in question, It worked with a 50 amp breaker. A failure with the wall connector would have resulted in the 50 amp breaker also tripping.
Also I cannot imagine a failure mode that resulted in it drawing just a little more amps that it should have. If OP said it was drawing 100-120 amps for a few seconds before it tripped, that’s a short. Electrical components generally fail shorted/closed or open. Especially high voltage AC components. If what OP has described is correct, it has failed in some sort of low-resistance but not shorted way. Loose connections would not increase the current draw.
And being that the wall connector is essentially a contactor (and does not limit the current in any way) if there is a defect it is most likely with the car charger itself and not the wall connector.
Being that you are not a licensed electrician, I would avoid making misleading statements.
davewill
Active Member
1. A loose connection with high resistance can act just like reported.
2. Adding the personal dig at the end of your post.
P.S. It's totally uncool to add a disagree to my post as retaliation.
High resistance will not increase current flow. It will not cause something is supposed to draw 48 amps draw 58 amps. If you know ohms law, you know your statement is incorrect.
You’ll notice resistance is in the denominator. High resistance means low current.
High resistance in the area immediately surrounding the breaker will cause it to trip due to thermal overload, but it won’t cause an amp meter to read high.
It is not a personal dig. He isn’t an electrician. He isn’t qualified to make the statements he is making. Especially when they are wrong.
I disagree that there is something wrong with the wall connector. It’s not retaliation.
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davewill
Active Member
I'd believe you if I had said there was something wrong with the wall connector (I didn't), and if you hadn't waited until after my thumbs down to do it. I'm removing my thumb's down because I don't believe in using a thumb's down if I'm part of the conversation.
Sigh, qdeathstar has it out for me ever since I called him out for replying to this thread 60 posts in without having realized that the post he was replying to had been answered and beaten to death. BTW, appeals to authority ("not an electrician") aren't cool either, qdeathstar and are misplaced too. You can find plenty of electricians who don't adhere to code, say incorrect things on forums, etc.
At any rate, until the original poster of the breaker trip scenario returns, there isn't much to be gained debating it.
And finally, it would be really nice if people didn't keep using this same thread for completely unrelated problems. Maybe the mods can put us out of our misery and lock this thread?
At any rate, until the original poster of the breaker trip scenario returns, there isn't much to be gained debating it.
And finally, it would be really nice if people didn't keep using this same thread for completely unrelated problems. Maybe the mods can put us out of our misery and lock this thread?
You suggested he stop using it…. In any case, I’m glad you are no longer trying to defend incorrect statements.
Appeal to authority is only a logical fallacy if you are using it as the main support for your argument.
Like, for instance If I said I was right because I’m an electrician. That is an appeal to authority fallacy.
However, if I say “you are wrong, you’re not an electrician. I am an electrician, here is why you are wrong, Ohms Law.” that is a statement of fact and not a logical fallacy. See the difference?
I don’t have it in for you, I just have issues with your opinions that have been shown to be incorrect and don’t appear to have basis.
davewill
Active Member
Actually, I've been thinking about your explanation, and I believe that you can't treat the on-board charger as if it had a fixed resistance. It will adjust until IT is drawing what it wants.
Surely you don't think he should use it while it's drawing much more that it should.
You can possibly use the wall connector, just not on that circuit or car
Of course, my main point is that we can’t rule anything out but it is very unlikely the issue is the wall connector.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Yes, let’s leave the misleading statements to the licensed electricians, as is customary.
Exactly.Yes, let’s leave the misleading statements to the licensed electricians, as is customary.
View attachment 908879
Johnny Vector
Member
Still no. You're talking about a converter structured for constant output power. Those have a negative input resistance, and do draw more current if the input voltage drops. The on-board charger doesn't work that way; it adjusts to a fixed input current. If you set it to 40 amps, it should draw 40 amps, regardless of voltage. If not, it's broken.
If you think his on-board charger is broken, then "don't use your wall connector" doesn't address the problem. If the on-board charger is drawing too much current, the correct response is "don't use L2 charging at all until you take your car in to get fixed."
I meant in a way that limits the current to its output setting. Eg, lowering the current to 32 amps from the max output of 48 amps. Or being defective in a way that would allow more current to flow. The fuses are binary and are meant to protect the unit from short circuits. Not limit the current as a normal function (the way constant current drivers do, or the way the on board car chargers does). The evse isn’t what limits current to the car.
But also I don’t see a fuse on gen3 tear downs but would expect it, I am curious as to what the fuse is. It was 100 amps on gen 1.
Buckeye614
Member
After spending half my life reading this thread. the biggest take away I have learned is this thread would not exist (or be only 1 page) if there was a 55amp breaker. people would get 6 awg Romex and put in a 55amp breaker. I think manufactures of breakers are reading the thread and laughing over the torture Tesla owners are experiencing. I'll put in a 50 and hope 55s are made, in the future, to fill the gap. 38mph charge rate should get me full after 8 hours.
It isn’t only that. It you did use a 55A breaker, then you’d also have to set your EVSE to 44A charge rate, and most EVSEs don’t have that setting. It is either 48A or 40A charge rate to pair with the 60A and 50A breakers that are in use.
But yeah, 40A charge rate is FINE.
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