Nah, it’s all mostly just fun around here but some people like to be competitive so if cars are chased right and drivers are driving the hell out of their cars...smoothly... the PAX points get pretty close even if the cars are pretty different as long as the course is decent for all too, not just Miata’s
but the 3 smokes Miata’s, P85 had some size issues
I'm excited to hear your results. I've also switched from super street to EVX this year and am feeling the same pros/cons. The switch has bumped me from top 5-15 PAX/Raw to top 5 PAX/Raw in every local event.
So ironically, I was able to get my first FTDI and was 2nd on RAW (missed by less than 2 tenths) at my farewell SS event a couple of weeks ago (we race on fast airport concrete)...Hopefully I'll see similar improvements with EVX. I am going to do some analysis once I get a few EVX results in on the % gains, etc.
. Almost every event I do has enough heavy braking where they get very hot and blue (it doesn't take a lot). I think increased grip from bigger tires is definitely going to exacerbate this. I think the MPP brace will help with feel (I'm used to Porsche brakes) and MPP rotors/pads will definitely be in the future plans. I haven't had any "fade" at this point or anything where it feels like there is any safety concern though. One thing I would be curious about is how much they contribute to heat soak of the wheel/tire. In my last event, I started spraying my tires after the first run to keep things in check and it seemed to really help.
I've heard good things about the 660's but in the 18" I don't see some sizes that are appealing (19" may be better!). If you are looking for good wear (I'm running like 90% of the time on abrasive concrete), the Goodyear's have worn really well. I'm hoping Bridgestone has their RE71 replacement released sometime late this year or in the winter. If they do, grab them fast!Welcome to the EV-X fun
I saw the new FUCAs but don't think its worth swapping at this point for the minimal gain in camber. My plans for next season are the front lower control arm bushings & bushing inserts as well as the rear camber/toe arms. Currently on 265/35/19 RE71R and 19x10 wheels, since the RE71R are extinct I need to figure out my direction for next season currently leaning 660's. Our second half of this season kicks off next month, 5 races left and I am in the hunt for driver of the year.
Are you in a Performance + or -?I'm running EV-X legal too. KW coilovers, MPP FUCA, rear camber arms, 265 RE-71's, eibach sways.
I generally set FTD raw at my AutoX- against GT3's, fully striped/supercharged S2000's and M3's, even against some odd things like karts, all on Hoosiers.
I can only get about -2.3° out of my 2019 MPP FUCA's, but that seems fine for the RE71's. I actually run the smallest shim- when I took them all out I swear I ran slower and the car had less grip.
For AutoX, I have found the stock brakes just fine. Stock pads, stock rotors, etc. Yep, they turn blue easily, but they never fade on 70 second courses with 3 runs back to back, and 90 MPH top speeds. I find the pedal remarkably firm and consistent. I've let some of the local instructors and fast guys run my car, and they have all commented at how good the brakes are and how it took them some time to gain confidence in them as they didn't expect it. My pads probably have 150+ runs on them so far and are about 2/3 used up. I'm going to try the RB XT910's when they're done because I want a street OK pad, and I'm cheap
The brakes do pump a ton of heat back into the tires- after 3 quick runs, you cannot touch the wheels with bare hands, and tire pressures climb over the next hour.
The real fun of a Model 3 is when it rains- Run your stock MPS4's, and nobody can touch you. I've run FTD by 5+ seconds in the wet.
My real learning (and those of everyone that has driven it) is that you drive a Model 3 differently- it's a point and shoot car. You have to learn to use the acceleration and braking. Get the turn done, and on the power ASAP, even if you have to go through the corner slower. I actually accelerate and brake between slalom cones. Everyone that rides with me says "well, you could be smoother" and then they drive smooth and are a second slower. By the end of the day, they're driving like maniacs too, and going faster. Carrying speed through corners where your turns are wider and you can't get on the power sooner is just hurting you because you can accelerate so fast. Shortest path, longest time on accelerator wins.
Plus, look at your G-meter when you're done. If it's not almost a perfect circle at around 1.2-1.4G's, minus a flat spot on the bottom where you can only accel about 0.9G, then you've got some performance left in the car that you haven't used. I've noticed in new drivers that their traction circles look more like a + than an O, only using turning or braking.
"+" I guess? The one with the larger brakes and 20" wheels from the factory. Late 2018 build.
Those are some great results- good work! Do you run on asphalt or concrete?
I'm running EV-X legal too. KW coilovers, MPP FUCA, rear camber arms, 265 RE-71's, eibach sways.
I generally set FTD raw at my AutoX- against GT3's, fully striped/supercharged S2000's and M3's, even against some odd things like karts, all on Hoosiers.
I can only get about -2.3° out of my 2019 MPP FUCA's, but that seems fine for the RE71's. I actually run the smallest shim- when I took them all out I swear I ran slower and the car had less grip.
For AutoX, I have found the stock brakes just fine. Stock pads, stock rotors, etc. Yep, they turn blue easily, but they never fade on 70 second courses with 3 runs back to back, and 90 MPH top speeds. I find the pedal remarkably firm and consistent. I've let some of the local instructors and fast guys run my car, and they have all commented at how good the brakes are and how it took them some time to gain confidence in them as they didn't expect it. My pads probably have 150+ runs on them so far and are about 2/3 used up. I'm going to try the RB XT910's when they're done because I want a street OK pad, and I'm cheap
The brakes do pump a ton of heat back into the tires- after 3 quick runs, you cannot touch the wheels with bare hands, and tire pressures climb over the next hour.
The real fun of a Model 3 is when it rains- Run your stock MPS4's, and nobody can touch you. I've run FTD by 5+ seconds in the wet.
My real learning (and those of everyone that has driven it) is that you drive a Model 3 differently- it's a point and shoot car. You have to learn to use the acceleration and braking. Get the turn done, and on the power ASAP, even if you have to go through the corner slower. I actually accelerate and brake between slalom cones. Everyone that rides with me says "well, you could be smoother" and then they drive smooth and are a second slower. By the end of the day, they're driving like maniacs too, and going faster. Carrying speed through corners where your turns are wider and you can't get on the power sooner is just hurting you because you can accelerate so fast. Shortest path, longest time on accelerator wins.
Plus, look at your G-meter when you're done. If it's not almost a perfect circle at around 1.2-1.4G's, minus a flat spot on the bottom where you can only accel about 0.9G, then you've got some performance left in the car that you haven't used. I've noticed in new drivers that their traction circles look more like a + than an O, only using turning or braking.
Good for you and good luck! I've never gone to Nats but have done some Champ Tours which are really fun. Try to find some A7's to "borrow"!
That is a great turnout!Yeah I went from 18's to 19's just to get in on the 265/35/19 selection since that seems to be the big Type R size.
This all is good advice. It took me a solid season to stop trying to drive it like my Corvette (which was very much point and shoot but could also turn). I also have no issues with my stock brakes but I have the Performance brakes. A buddy that autox's his LR AWD cooked his brakes all the time until he went to the MPP 2 pc rotors.
I also end up dancing between the brake and throttle in slaloms and I haven't found a faster way through in this car. I have 3 FTD's and a Codriver took 1 FTD in my car out of the first 6 events so it seems to be working.
We still haven't had a solid rain event, I got to make a couple of runs in the wet one event when weather moved in at the end of the day and I was like 2 tenths off my fastest dry run so I know this car will be hilariously fast.
Considering CAM is still treated as outsiders I wouldn't expect EV-X to be treated any better especially since the SCCA has already proven they hate us.
There are 2 local AutoX groups, the SCCA club and the independent club I run with and our independent club generally has 3-4 Model 3's at every event running EV-X. Most are blue
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Nope. I'm still on a SCCA boycott. I might get over it next year.... we'll see lol.
Asphalt.
I actually did get to borrow some A7's from someone recently, and I was surprised how little difference they made vs the RE71's. Now my RE71's are ooollldd, and these Hoosiers were 18+ months old too with plenty of heat cycles. Maybe I just couldn't adjust to them in a single day, or didn't have the setup right for them, but I sure didn't gain more than 0.5 seconds, so they're not the end all, be all of being competitive.Try to find some A7's to "borrow"!
Nice work - you probably had Marcus wishing he was in the Model 3 still! (it will be fun to see how he does at Nats with that...BS is going to be a showdown)
I think the time delta probably increases with the r-comp/race tire vs. street tire on concrete more than asphalt (I've heard this anyway) but that is interesting to hear. With that said, some of the 200tw tires out there are really really good.
