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Autocross- SCCA EV-X Class vs. SS

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I’m pretty sure everyone running in EV-X currently is running a Model 3 that may be outside of the current rules depending how they’re interpreted. The LR AWD I compete against every week has both rear arms and a party box. I’m planning on being on the MPP rear spring arm next year to run the super sport springs.

Luckily I only run locals and avoid the SCCA as much as possible
 
So, I experienced weird momentary power cuts right after launch this Sunday pretty much on every run. Those were happening on and off before at various parts of prior courses maybe once per event, but nothing this severe. I have no idea if the car was showing anything at that point, since it was usually just for a moment and I kept going. I guess I need a cabin- or helmet-mounted camera. After each run there were no errors/warnings whatsoever.

The launch was pretty much WOT with maybe a 20 degree turn 30-40ft after the start. Looked pretty similar to this start.

I run 50-50 torque split, -10 traction control, with 26.2" diameter tires, and Zero-G wheel selected in setup (26.75" diameter) per this thread's earlier discussion. Previously, I tried matching the menu item's rolling diameter with my tires (I was using one of the 18" options that have 26.3" diameter), and was getting full-blown Christmas-tree of error lights that were placing the car into no-abs/TC/powersteering mode and requiring the car to be parked to clear.

Any ideas which wheel setup option to try next?
 
I'm with the group that says choosing wheel options in the UI doesn't change any settings.

To me, it sounds like you were experiencing the normal stability control intrusion that is still present even in track mode with -10 stability control.
 
I'm with the group that says choosing wheel options in the UI doesn't change any settings.

To me, it sounds like you were experiencing the normal stability control intrusion that is still present even in track mode with -10 stability control.
Don't know if that's a thing anymore considering you can pretty much drift the car if you want.
 
I'm with the group that says choosing wheel options in the UI doesn't change any settings.

To me, it sounds like you were experiencing the normal stability control intrusion that is still present even in track mode with -10 stability control.

So for me, if I run sticky 275/35/19's on the track and set the wheel config to anything but Zero-G (largest diameter setup), about 1/4 runs I will get a full failure of ABS, TC, SC, etc. Set it to zero G, and I have 100+ runs with no errors.
Then throw on my 295/30/18's and don't swap to a small wheel config? Same issue.

I'm 100% convinced it does matter, if you drive the car hard. It seems to happen at very high powers while also using most of the lateral grip availible, That being said, I've run with other Teslas that don't seem to have this sensitivity, although they are not driving as hard, running laps ~5% slower than I do.

As for -10 SC still having intrusion? I have never once noticed that and have spun the car multiple times and get mild drifts going quite often when I over-drive a high speed corner. At anything less than -10 you can for sure detect it coming on though.
 
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Reactions: tm1v2
Then throw on my 295/30/18's and don't swap to a small wheel config? Same issue.
Which one?
I'm with the group that says choosing wheel options in the UI doesn't change any settings.

To me, it sounds like you were experiencing the normal stability control intrusion that is still present even in track mode with -10 stability control.
I doubt it. From my testing of various settings, the TC in track mode is pretty subtle and doesn't just abruptly cut power for like half a second.
 
Thanks much. I figured this out as I've looked at my pictures more.
Hopefully closing out my story, and posting a followup. Mounted my 275/35/19 Rival with the 5mm spacer. Space to the knuckle looks like this:

5mm space.jpg


So hopefully with my belt and suspenders and suspenders I'm good now.

Checked the number of rotations of lug nut engagement. Tire Rack says that I should have at least 7.5 rotations for M14 x 1.5. I have 8.25 rotations - so I'm good. Just thought I'd post this for future reference for anyone. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 
Keeping with tradition of driving like crap this past weekend I ended up 7/59 in RAW and took my first EV-X class loss in 3 years to a LR AWD with a few more MPP parts then me plus a party box, wasn't the car owner but rather his codriver that competes in GS nationally. I had him but broadsided a cone at the finish. Not happy with any of my runs, maybe I need the winter off :X

 
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Reactions: M3Pdude
What's the group thoughts on 200tw autocross tires in cold weather? Sunday's event forecast here is 33F in the morning and warming up to 47F.

I didn't have problems with the RE71R, but the Nexens have been awful under 70F so I'm thinking about running street tires or recruiting a co-driver to help warm them up.

What every first run on these tires feels like:
 
What's the group thoughts on 200tw autocross tires in cold weather? Sunday's event forecast here is 33F in the morning and warming up to 47F.

I didn't have problems with the RE71R, but the Nexens have been awful under 70F so I'm thinking about running street tires or recruiting a co-driver to help warm them up.

What every first run on these tires feels like:
138F416F-573C-4B52-8B85-41C1DD9A0A0D.jpeg


It was cold yesterday morning. Think the high was 50 or so. Just gotta send it. Def was hard to get heat in the tires, I never quite hit the point where they stopped gaining 2psi after every run.