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Battery life.

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The 12 volt battery controls most of the interface electronics with the driver. Security, doors, lights, infotainment, computers, displays, etc. When it goes bad, it makes it very difficult to unlock the electronic door locks, and the car is virtually dead. A warning should let you know a couple of weeks before it dies. It costs about $220. The High Voltage battery is the big battery that powers the car drive units and some other major components. When it dies, you car doesn't move, and can't successfully hold a charge from superchargers, home chargers, etc. It costs about $22,000.
 
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The 12 volt battery controls most of the interface electronics with the driver. Security, doors, lights, infotainment, computers, displays, etc. When it goes bad, it makes it very difficult to unlock the electronic door locks, and the car is virtually dead. A warning should let you know a couple of weeks before it dies. It costs about $220. The High Voltage battery is the big battery that powers the car drive units and some other major components. When it dies, you car doesn't move, and can't successfully hold a charge from superchargers, home chargers, etc. It costs about $22,000.
Thanks, I was asking after the HV (main) battery. So far it seems to be holding charge form home 56A charger. Will I have advance knowledge of the failure or is it a rather abrupt transition??
 
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Thanks, I was asking after the HV (main) battery. So far it seems to be holding charge form home 56A charger. Will I have advance knowledge of the failure or is it a rather abrupt transition??
Easiest, but not always very precise, indicator is your remaining range at a full charge.

If you open your Tesla app on your phone while it's plugged in (or when it's not plugged in and tap the battery in the top left twice), you should see the slider to set your charge limit. When you slide it all the way to the right and keep your finger held down, you should see "Charge Limit: 100% xxx mi". However many miles that is represents the car's current estimate of its full-pack capacity, divided by whatever its configured consumption figure is. If you compare that to what your car was rated at when new, you can get a rough idea of your battery's current capacity. There are a lot of asterisks and caveats, but this is good enough to get a fair idea.

Most likely, as a 5 year old car, you should expect to have about 90% of the capacity it had when new. If it's more, great. If it's a little less, it's probably normal, and if it's a lot less you should be concerned. So if you have a 2017 Model S 90D for example, I think it's rated range when new was 294 miles. If it says 100% is now 265 miles or so, I would say you're in good shape.

Degradation is likely to be slow and gradual from here on out after 5 years. It's unlikely to have any issues if it's in good shape now. If it does fail, I suspect it would be abrupt - either losing a large chunk of capacity, or dying completely without much warning. Keep your battery from going completely empty and try to avoid keeping it charged above 90% for long periods of time (charging to 100% before going on a long drive is fine, just don't have it sitting at 90-100% all day every day just in case you decide to drive).
 
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Easiest, but not always very precise, indicator is your remaining range at a full charge.

If you open your Tesla app on your phone while it's plugged in (or when it's not plugged in and tap the battery in the top left twice), you should see the slider to set your charge limit. When you slide it all the way to the right and keep your finger held down, you should see "Charge Limit: 100% xxx mi". However many miles that is represents the car's current estimate of its full-pack capacity, divided by whatever its configured consumption figure is. If you compare that to what your car was rated at when new, you can get a rough idea of your battery's current capacity. There are a lot of asterisks and caveats, but this is good enough to get a fair idea.

Most likely, as a 5 year old car, you should expect to have about 90% of the capacity it had when new. If it's more, great. If it's a little less, it's probably normal, and if it's a lot less you should be concerned. So if you have a 2017 Model S 90D for example, I think it's rated range when new was 294 miles. If it says 100% is now 265 miles or so, I would say you're in good shape.

Degradation is likely to be slow and gradual from here on out after 5 years. It's unlikely to have any issues if it's in good shape now. If it does fail, I suspect it would be abrupt - either losing a large chunk of capacity, or dying completely without much warning. Keep your battery from going completely empty and try to avoid keeping it charged above 90% for long periods of time (charging to 100% before going on a long drive is fine, just don't have it sitting at 90-100% all day every day just in case you decide to drive).
I realize Tesla hasn't been in existence for long enough to have real definite data on battery life, but what is the "expected" life span for the battery in my 2018 MLR? I have friends telling me it is only 5 years before a replacement is needed. How much capacity drop would generally require replacement?
 
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I realize Tesla hasn't been in existence for long enough to have real definite data on battery life, but what is the "expected" life span for the battery in my 2018 MLR? I have friends telling me it is only 5 years before a replacement is needed. How much capacity drop would generally require replacement?
5 years? Dang, there are hundreds of thousands of cars overdue for a main battery change, including mine…
 
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i still have my original pack in my car and I'm at 137,700 miles. If i go to 100% charge i get 235 miles rated dono about ideal because that number is a pipe dream anyway. 235 seems pretty accurate based on my travels. I have a lot of hills around me so its hard to get an actual number and i have a lead foot so i have gone over 200 miles on a single charge without issue multiple times.
a couple weeks ago i went from Primm to Yermo (103 miles) and it took exactly 60% but i had the heater on and was using autopilot a lot since it was like 2am and there was a ****ton of headwind.

The best way to see your battery health is to download an app like scan my tesla (SMT) and plug in the OBD2 to CAN adapter into the CAN Bus line and look at your individual cells when the car is fully charged and completed. fully charged cells are 4.2v so at 100% you should see them all at that but will more likely be around 4.18v per cell which is still pretty good.
 
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