You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
No idea about yours? I thought you got the answer - faulty high voltage controller. Or you're questioning other cases?Really have no idea why it failed.
Any news on your car?There is more, I crossed 2K miles just a day back. I too saw the lights flicker before the car shut down completely. I too use my Model S charger(gen1) to charge M3.
VIN23XX tho.
No, the tow truck driver could not set the car on tow mode. The car died while he was doing that and he kept the driver door open till the car was loaded/pulled(the same way as urs) on the flat bed. I just got the 2018.14 update (the one with chill mode) two days back. After the update the car was not recognizing both of our phones for unlocking most of the time. Even the card took couple of swipes to recognize.
Which service center is your car in? I can tell my service guys to copy paste the solution from your car ;-)).
Was it a simple electrical part failure or was it related to type of charger I used???
Yes. For more context, OP should look at Range issues - Page 2 - My Nissan Leaf Forum.The charger is in your car, so the only type you used is the integral Model 3 charger.
The EVSE you used to connect power to your Model is highly unlikely to make any diference. (Iy is essentially just a glorified relay in a box.)
Yesterday, I charged my M3 to 100% and drove to SF to pick up a set of Aero wheels/tires. It was totally a steal at $900. And it was so fun to try out the new AP control scroll wheel and loving it. Anyways, since my wife (MS) was out of town, I decided to park my M3 in my wife’s garage and used her gen 1 UMC to charge my M3. This morning, car wasn’t charged at all. Instead I got three different warnings that car is not charging, may not be drivable and need service. I coudln’t even get the charger out. It was locked in. I had to pull it out manually using a release cable. Tried my gen 2 UMC and still no connection. I rebooted three times but no luck. Still charging errors. It seems like I would still be able to drive to SC on Monday. I was able to engage gear to reverse and drive without any issues. Plus I had 79 miles range left. While I was googling to find a solution to my problem, car started showing more errors. ABS errors, brake regen errors, and eventually, it just died. Black screen. Oh $hit. I saw driving light flickering and power door sounded weak and eventually had to use manual door opener to get out.
While calling a road side assistance, I tried to open the frunk with 9V battery. It didn’t work. I tried second brand new 9V battery and still no luck. hmmmmm... This is not good at all. How are they going to tow my car if they cannot open the frunk? Tow truck should be here in about an hour so we will see....
To be clear, the correct units are watt-hours per mile (Wh/mile).309w/mile instead of my usual 250/260