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Don't use a wax or anything that contains petroleum distillates. They will turn the film yellow. Search around for products specifically designed for film. Chemical Guys also has some products.
kevincwelch
Active Member
My personal favorite is Collinite 845. However, I do not know if it contains any petroleum distillates.
smorgasbord
Active Member
I like 3M 39030 Performance Finish Synthetic Wax, since it's made by the same company that made the paint armor I'm using, and was recommended by the paint armor installer.
It's super easy to apply, which IMHO, is the most important thing. All waxes have about the same gloss and last about the same, so the one that's easiest to apply will get applied more frequently and thus look the best. I tried the Glare Pro recently, but am going back to the 3M.
EDIT: My main reason for switching back is that Glare Pro leaves residue at the paint armor's edges, whereas the 3M does not. I don't want to spend a ton of time waxing my car, and the 3M is easier to apply. I might stick with Glare Pro for the trunk lid since that is the only panel without paint armor, but probably won't buy more when it runs out.
It's super easy to apply, which IMHO, is the most important thing. All waxes have about the same gloss and last about the same, so the one that's easiest to apply will get applied more frequently and thus look the best. I tried the Glare Pro recently, but am going back to the 3M.
EDIT: My main reason for switching back is that Glare Pro leaves residue at the paint armor's edges, whereas the 3M does not. I don't want to spend a ton of time waxing my car, and the 3M is easier to apply. I might stick with Glare Pro for the trunk lid since that is the only panel without paint armor, but probably won't buy more when it runs out.
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roblab
Active Member
The instructions for my Protective Paint Armor were to use WAX, not some other shiny or abrasive chemicals. If you read the labels, and it says "Ingredients: Water, Wax" and that's all, then there you go.
As Smorgasbord says, the one easiest to use is the one that gets used most often. My car is a year old with 30,000 miles on it and still shines like new, no swirls, no white residue. About the first thing anyone says is, "What a gorgeous car! I love the color!" So it's always waxed to show. I don't think I have ever had it LOOK dirty in all the time I've owned it except for going through the blizzard in Oregon.
I use the 3M also.
MoeMistry
Former Vendor
Most waxes on the market WILL contain petroleum distillates. Don't go by the label.
You need to apply a nano coating if you want the most durable protection on the finish.
Products like Opti-Coat, CQuartz, and true nano-products are the way to go. I'm not a fan of traditional waxes and sealants on the clear film.
Also, the film turns yellow on its own due to the adhesive and UV rays. It's just a matter of time. The better quality films just take longer and the severity is less. But putting a hyper-coating like the ones mentioned above will help tremendously.
You need to apply a nano coating if you want the most durable protection on the finish.
Products like Opti-Coat, CQuartz, and true nano-products are the way to go. I'm not a fan of traditional waxes and sealants on the clear film.
Also, the film turns yellow on its own due to the adhesive and UV rays. It's just a matter of time. The better quality films just take longer and the severity is less. But putting a hyper-coating like the ones mentioned above will help tremendously.
