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Cabin Overheat Protection doesn't work, never has.

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Now it's back on. There must be some type of time limit setting or something. I'm having a carport type thing installed next week (more like a big sun shade/sail strung between steel posts) so I expect that will mostly eliminate my need for COP.

For those who use the NO A/C setting, does the 'Cabin Overheat Protection' appear below the interior temp in the app for you when active?
I have never seen the Cabin Overheat Protection indication, and NO A/C has been my setting for pretty much the life of the car.
 
I just went to get something from my car. Didn't mess with climate or COP setting. Five minutes later the interior is back up to 118F and COP hasn't kicked in. It's set to ON. Either there's something screwy with my COP or there's something I'm really not understanding. Maybe I'll just leave it off and find something else to worry about.
Battery must be above 20% state of charge for COP to function. COP is only active for the first 12 hours after you park. To reset the 12 hour clock either drive the Tesla vehicle or unlock, then lock the doors (you can do this via the Tesla app.)
 
Battery must be above 20% state of charge for COP to function. COP is only active for the first 12 hours after you park. To reset the 12 hour clock either drive the Tesla vehicle or unlock, then lock the doors (you can do this via the Tesla app.)
Doesn't really apply to my situation. I understand both the 20% SOC and 12 hour limit as I mentioned in my initial post. Anyway, I figured it out.
 
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I keep COP on (with AC option on), always have on both our previous Model S and now Model Y. I don’t think it’s that bad of a drain. I haven’t monitored the drain with COP but I do recall one time being out and having something in the Model S that we didn’t want to overheat so I literally kept the AC on for five hours straight set at 76 degrees (outside temp was 95 degrees) and only lost 2% per hour. I imagine COP would use much less energy than that trying to keep cabin temps between 95-105.
 
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I assumed that NO A/C meant it would still use the heat pump to cool it down, it just wasn't using the A/C compressor to dehumidify. But I was chatting with a tech through the app and he said NO A/C actually just uses the fan to blow the hot air around, and doesn't do much to cool it down. Why would blowing the hot around be helpful at all? If that's what was actually happening, it certainly did nothing to control the temp. Is it possible that it would actually take cool air in from outside, but doesn't because I have my climate set to recirculate when I leave the car?
Yes, the no A/C setting will just move are around, on the (usually valid) assumption that the air outside the car will be cooler than that inside, and thus use less power to cool the cabin. I'm not sure if the car over-rides any recirculate setting, but if it doesnt and you have recirculate on (why?), then yes the no A/C setting isnt going to help.
 
Yes, the no A/C setting will just move are around, on the (usually valid) assumption that the air outside the car will be cooler than that inside, and thus use less power to cool the cabin. I'm not sure if the car over-rides any recirculate setting, but if it doesnt and you have recirculate on (why?), then yes the no A/C setting isnt going to help.
Why do I use recirculate? It's more efficient. After the initial cool down, the car is only cooling down the [already cooled down] air which takes less energy than cooling down much warmer outside air. Same goes for heating in the winter.
 
My experience with my 2020 LRMY in July temperatures (above 90F) in the DC Metro area is that COP with AC uses ~750Wh per hour or ~6kWh over an 8 hour period. You have to decide if it is worth it just to keep the passenger cabin temperature from climbing above 105F. With COP set to Fan Only mode I have observed cabin temperatures of ~120F but need more experience with the Fan Only mode.
 
Why do I use recirculate? It's more efficient. After the initial cool down, the car is only cooling down the [already cooled down] air which takes less energy than cooling down much warmer outside air. Same goes for heating in the winter.
I think he is referring to when using No A/C and the COP when car is stationary. There is zero reason to use recirculate in this situation, as all you will be doing is moving hot air around in the cabin.
 
I think he is referring to when using No A/C and the COP when car is stationary. There is zero reason to use recirculate in this situation, as all you will be doing is moving hot air around in the cabin.
You can't control whether COP recirculates or not - at least there's no option. But I believe they've thought of this and COP changes it to fresh air intake when left on recirculate. I've seen the cabin temp drop after reaching 105+, especially when outside air is a lot cooler. The 'no A/C' option just wouldn't make any sense if left to recirculate.
 
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Now it's back on. There must be some type of time limit setting or something. I'm having a carport type thing installed next week (more like a big sun shade/sail strung between steel posts) so I expect that will mostly eliminate my need for COP.

For those who use the NO A/C setting, does the 'Cabin Overheat Protection' appear below the interior temp in the app for you when active?
I have done some research and it seems like Cabin Overheat protection works for 12 hours only and then it turns off after inactivity to save battery (and I'm sure after the usual stuff like if the battery is below 20%, etc. etc.) Some say that unlocking your car remotely and locking it back will help, but one sure way is to open the door and close it. This will reset your 12 hour clock where the overheat protection will be active. Unlock and relock may apply to models S & X since they have motorized door handles, but who knows. I'll be testing this.

Depending on your Tesla model, you may have different options for this feature. My Model S doesn't give me a choice between A/C, Fan and off, but my wife's model 3 does.

Hope this helps.
 
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