Calibrating door handles using new tool

[Rene-S]

Oké, I have to wait for nice weather and a moment that the car won't be being used for a couple of days ... to Rene-S ... have you found a video for the rear doors or are you going to go for it without? Let me know how you get on and I'll do the same here

I have managed to fix the rear door handle alignment
This video shows how to take out the rear door handle entirely, which I didn't do. I simply loosened the bolts and re-adjusted it:

I say "simply", but 2 of the 4 bolts are very hard to reach without taking the window out, but it can be done. Patience and small hands/arms like me are a help.

I am fortunate enough to have an uncle with a garage that I could borrow. Doing this outside without nice weather is a bit of a risk.

Counter-intuitively, I thought my handle was too low. But it actually needed to be EVEN LOWER. It would snap back inside when stuck when I lifted it, so that was odd. I could also see scratches on the top of the handle, so that makes sense that it needed to be lower. The handle presents kinda wonky in an arch, which makes it pop out higher than you think.

BE WARNED: You need to get spare door panel clips. They are ALMOST guaranteed to break. See: Parts Catalog
Part name: CLIP, HEART FLEX W WSHR 70 LBS RETENTION
Number: 1025401-00-A

I called Tesla service to order 20 of these. They sent me to a local service center to pick them up. They cost €0.30 each. Not having them on hand when they break is terrible, so get yourself some.

Some tips:

• Disable car alarm!
• You can still extend and retract the door handles by pressing the lock/unlock button on the screen, even though the doors are open. You can't do this with the key (even though I've seen this in some videos?)
• Pull out the speaker grill, then you have a very easy place to grab and pull the door panel. It's very easy, just put your nails in the edge of it and pull as uniformly as possible.
• Have some kind of step or box nearby so you can put the doorpanel on it while you unplug the cables
• Study the video I linked for the connectors. There's 3 different types. I had the most difficulty with the blue/black cable he shows here:
  there's a little plastic nub on the top of the connector that keeps it firmly in the plug. I ended up pulling hard to disconnect, but I think it's best if you slightly lift the plug's plastic to skip over the little plastic nub.
• After loosening all 4 bolts of the handle, you can play around with it and just tighten the 2 that are easy to reach until it's good. Do some proper testing before tightening the other 2.
• Test again after fastening all 4 bolts and before putting on the panel. It might change positions slightly after doing this. Taking the panel off again is a pain + might break the clips again.

 

[KalJoMoS]

I say "simply", but 2 of the 4 bolts are very hard to reach without taking the window out, but it can be done.

First NO, you do not have to remove the window! As it was clearly in the video of the front handle you can use some functions of door to move the window out of the way. Yes, one of the nut in the rear handle is usually behind the window IF it’s lowered for opening the door. The most far (rear) edge nut is easily reached as you have to open only the front section of the covering rubber seal (forming a nice corner cover at rear door) so you can fold it away from the opening.
Secondly, before any removal cover the handle with masking tape (usually used with painting). Remember, you can pull the handle out even if it does not function so by holding it cover the chrome properly. There are sections of the door inside that will scrape the polished surface for sure!
To have the window in the initial position you can “close the door” at the latch (rear is on the C-pillar) by solid metal or plastic tool. Just push the catches there inwards, simulating what the door always does. You will notice the window will go up and then you can get to that hided nut. It’s behind the middle butyl cover looking at the door section where your handle front edge is - there are three side by side. You can use flashlight from the opening that I described earlier to give good overview of the handle position inside the door.
Rest is as it is with the front doors, with one exemption: DO NOT close the door if you have manually locked it for the fix. You can re-attach the rear inner handle (they are electrical on the door panel) or use a dummy switch made from plain wire to “open the door again” as this is allowing the latch to operate properly and the window will lower as well. You will not damage the door for further.

 

[Rene-S]

First NO, you do not have to remove the window! As it was clearly in the video of the front handle you can use some functions of door to move the window out of the way.

Yeah that's what I said. Just said it's hard to reach I didn't remove the window. I used the door latch trick as well. It helped, but not by a lot. Getting my hands/tool in there for the top bolt was still difficult. But I've also never done this before, maybe I'm not doing it the best way.

 

[FrancT]

These are great responses, I can see the previous owner has had a go themselves and not got the panel back properly, probably because of broken clips, I will do as you say and get some clips before I start, but don't hold your breath to hear of my success!! I will probably have to take my time to study video, make the purchase etc.;-) Thanks again for the help F

 

[Rene-S]

These are great responses, I can see the previous owner has had a go themselves and not got the panel back properly, probably because of broken clips, I will do as you say and get some clips before I start, but don't hold your breath to hear of my success!! I will probably have to take my time to study video, make the purchase etc.;-) Thanks again for the help F

Yeah my driver door was also squeaking when I bought it. Asked the service guy during an MCU 2 upgrade and he said the clips are probably busted.
Sure enough, pulled it off, replaced FIVE broken clips. Good as new!
Maybe the clips also break along the way. They're very hard plastic and the doors get slammed and rattled.

 

[FrancT]

Oké sorry to seem soooo clueless, @Rene-S, you got the clips from a service centre.. I've been looking for where I could get them... nahdah! I'm close-ish to Eindhoven? But where did you get your door panel clips for 30cts (tesla parts nr. 1025401-00-A) I've only found €3,35 per stuk!! gr F

 

[Rene-S]

Oké sorry to seem soooo clueless, @Rene-S, you got the clips from a service centre.. I've been looking for where I could get them... nahdah! I'm close-ish to Eindhoven? But where did you get your door panel clips for 30cts (tesla parts nr. 1025401-00-A) I've only found €3,35 per stuk!! gr F

Haha that's funny, I live in Weert, and I got them in Eindhoven. Roermond should have them as well. Literally just called Tesla support, but I think they can sell them to you if you just walk in. Maybe €3.35 is for an entire set? Or are you looking 3rd party? You can DM me as well so we don't spam the thread.

 

[Hastings]

Ok, I just found it in the online service manual that Tesla very nicely updated. It talks about the procedure as if it's an automatic routine, it even mentions that PROC_DHFP_FRONT-PAS_DOOR-HANDLE-CALIBRATION message that I see in my last screenshot as a thing that their toolbox software uses, so it's probably the same command, just through the user accessible service menu.

View attachment 1007730

View attachment 1007731

Still going to wait for the reply from service (don't need my car tomorrow, so they'll probably reply before I need it anyway).

Have been unable to access the door recalibration after replacing the passenger rear door handle (Gen 3). I have the latest software downloaded for my 2018 model S. This may be above my pay grade, as I do not know how to unlock the gateway you mentioned in No. 2 above. I've accessed Service on my touchscreen but see nothing concerning handles/closures and recalibration. Maybe I'm due for a SC trip.

 

[KalJoMoS]

This may be above my pay grade, as I do not know how to unlock the gateway you mentioned in No. 2 above. I've accessed Service on my touchscreen but see nothing concerning handles/closures and recalibration. Maybe I'm due for a SC trip.

This is actually very easy. Have the Service access on touchscreen active, it states the car has gateway LOCKED. Now hold your foot on the brake pedal and at the same time push and hold the indicator stalk up (as you usually hold it for right turn) at least ten seconds. And Voila, it’s now open for app. 90min.

 

[Rene-S]

It actually tells you exactly how to do this on the screen as well.

 

[Hastings]

First NO, you do not have to remove the window! As it was clearly in the video of the front handle you can use some functions of door to move the window out of the way. Yes, one of the nut in the rear handle is usually behind the window IF it’s lowered for opening the door. The most far (rear) edge nut is easily reached as you have to open only the front section of the covering rubber seal (forming a nice corner cover at rear door) so you can fold it away from the opening.
Secondly, before any removal cover the handle with masking tape (usually used with painting). Remember, you can pull the handle out even if it does not function so by holding it cover the chrome properly. There are sections of the door inside that will scrape the polished surface for sure!
To have the window in the initial position you can “close the door” at the latch (rear is on the C-pillar) by solid metal or plastic tool. Just push the catches there inwards, simulating what the door always does. You will notice the window will go up and then you can get to that hided nut. It’s behind the middle butyl cover looking at the door section where your handle front edge is - there are three side by side. You can use flashlight from the opening that I described earlier to give good overview of the handle position inside the door.
Rest is as it is with the front doors, with one exemption: DO NOT close the door if you have manually locked it for the fix. You can re-attach the rear inner handle (they are electrical on the door panel) or use a dummy switch made from plain wire to “open the door again” as this is allowing the latch to operate properly and the window will lower as well. You will not damage the door for further.

Did not see your note about not closing the door after manually locking it for the fix. And I closed door, bummer. Seems to be out of sync right now and reopens on its own. Is there a way to sync it back up, or am I SOL?

 

[Rene-S]

Did not see your note about not closing the door after manually locking it for the fix. And I closed door, bummer. Seems to be out of sync right now and reopens on its own. Is there a way to sync it back up, or am I SOL?

What's out of sync? The window moving down, or the handle? The note was more because if you close the door with the window fully up, you could shatter the window.

If it's the handle, that should fix itself. If you open the door through the electronic latch, it should just open, lower the window and present the handle.

 

[KalJoMoS]

As already answered the warning was for possible window shattering and that chrome decal damage surrounding the windows. Haven’t see this yet but the handle (or door) should be fine if you cycle the opening-closing a few times to get the operation correct. What was the damaged on your door?

 

[Hastings]

Tried opening and closing multiple times, seems to now work properly (in sync) no unsolicited openings. thx
Still having a popping noise when the door handle presents, probably mounted too tight either above or below the opening.
Will have to loosen the nuts and use credit cards to shim properly before re-tightening.

 

[Rene-S]

Tried opening and closing multiple times, seems to now work properly (in sync) no unsolicited openings. thx
Still having a popping noise when the door handle presents, probably mounted too tight either above or below the opening.
Will have to loosen the nuts and use credit cards to shim properly before re-tightening.

In my experience, it likes to sit lower rather than higher. I definitely put mine back too low, but 0 issues now, whereas when it was too high, it visibly struggled presenting and got stuck on retracting.

 

[Atredz]

Oké sorry to seem soooo clueless, @Rene-S, you got the clips from a service centre.. I've been looking for where I could get them... nahdah! I'm close-ish to Eindhoven? But where did you get your door panel clips for 30cts (tesla parts nr. 1025401-00-A) I've only found €3,35 per stuk!! gr F

Try aliexpres just search on the tesla part number

 

[Rene-S]

Try aliexpres just search on the tesla part number

Please don't. At €0.30 each, there's absolutely no reason to get garbage from AliExpress. Why skimp on such a thing in a €100k car.

If they're knockoffs, they will probably ether not fit right, clamp right, or break over time. The effort and risk of opening up the door panel and breaking other things much more expensive parts isn't worth the €1 you might save.

 

[Atredz]

Please don't. At €0.30 each, there's absolutely no reason to get garbage from AliExpress. Why skimp on such a thing in a €100k car.

If they're knockoffs, they will probably ether not fit right, clamp right, or break over time. The effort and risk of opening up the door panel and breaking other things much more expensive parts isn't worth the €1 you might save.

Where you think tesla gets them from

 

[Rene-S]

Where you think tesla gets them from

This is not worth arguing about. It's €3 in parts. Get them from Tesla, then you know it's the right thing and quality. Had they asked €50 for the same exact thing? Sure. But this is pointless. Not sure where Franc got the pricing from, but what I paid for them at Tesla, there's 0 reason to deviate.

 

[KalJoMoS]

First NO, you do not have to remove the window! As it was clearly in the video of the front handle you can use some functions of door to move the window out of the way. Yes, one of the nut in the rear handle is usually behind the window IF it’s lowered for opening the door. The most far (rear) edge nut is easily reached as you have to open only the front section of the covering rubber seal (forming a nice corner cover at rear door) so you can fold it away from the opening.
Secondly, before any removal cover the handle with masking tape (usually used with painting). Remember, you can pull the handle out even if it does not function so by holding it cover the chrome properly. There are sections of the door inside that will scrape the polished surface for sure!
To have the window in the initial position you can “close the door” at the latch (rear is on the C-pillar) by solid metal or plastic tool. Just push the catches there inwards, simulating what the door always does. You will notice the window will go up and then you can get to that hided nut. It’s behind the middle butyl cover looking at the door section where your handle front edge is - there are three side by side. You can use flashlight from the opening that I described earlier to give good overview of the handle position inside the door.
Rest is as it is with the front doors, with one exemption: DO NOT close the door if you have manually locked it for the fix. You can re-attach the rear inner handle (they are electrical on the door panel) or use a dummy switch made from plain wire to “open the door again” as this is allowing the latch to operate properly and the window will lower as well. You will not damage the door for further.

And now here are the photos, that dummy switch (on last photo) is really a good find that I saw here. You don’t need to buy a MB window switch from ebay: