Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Can anyone help me with these 2 problems please ?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I just got a 2018 model3 (I'm sure the newer ones work better) When I get text messages on my Tesla the new ones don't show up but instead I get old messages from years ago from ppl I'm not even texting with. Is there a way to reset or fix texting? Also my navigate on autopilot hasn't taken an exit or gotten on an on ramp once. It's basically just autopilot. Is there something I need to do? I thought as long as it's turned on it should work by just using the navigation.
 
Cost for FSD has been a yo-yo over the years. I bought mine after I bought the car (July 2018) and after I bought Enhanced AutoPilot (EAP) separately. So for me, I believe it was a total of $8500 (EAP $5.5K, FSD $3K Aug 2019). At the time I bought EAP (Aug 2018), it added:
  • Autosteer – Assisted steering within your lane
  • Traffic-Aware Cruise Control – Cruise control that matches the speed to traffic
  • Auto Lane Change – Assisted lane changes while driving on the highway
  • Summon – Automatically park and retrieve your vehicle
  • Autopark – Parallel and perpendicular parking, with a single touch
FSD essentially added Navigate on AutoPilot which allowed for assisted driving between on and off ramps, exits and highway interchanges. And whatever future developments of FSD would add.

edit: As @DocHolliday mentions, in order to have FSD your car needs to be updated with HW3. That's the $1000 hardware install. From the factory in 2018, HW2.5 was included but Tesla later deemed it insufficient to handle the work of FSD (despite initially saying the car was ready for FSD). As far as not "as good as newer ones", that should may not be the case. All Model 3s now should have HW3. It's conjecture (IMO) that there's a HW4 being looked at but I don't know for sure. By that I mean, retrofitting HW4 into older 3s, which I don't think is possible (too many other hardware changes).
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
@RayK And I have one more question about the FSD, every where I see online it says it's $12,000 but in my Tesla app it's $6,000 with a $1,000 hardware install. And the only added feature that my EAP doesn't have is traffic light stop sign control. Is it less money for me cause I have a older car and won't be as good as the newer ones?
You have EAP, so, upgrading to FSD is $6k, but you need the HW3 chip, since yours came with HW2.5. If you get the HW3 upgrade, some people have reported it's free, and not $1k. There's a thread on here about that. And, once you get the HW3 upgrade, you don't have to pay $6k for FSD, you can pay monthly, $100; and it's easy to do a month, and cancel. I did it to test the FSDbeta for a month back in June, when the beta went wide release. I will probably do it again in about a month, for ski season, and it's nice to have the car drive back and forth from the mountains, since they're almost 2hrs away.
 
Upvote 0
You have EAP, so, upgrading to FSD is $6k, but you need the HW3 chip, since yours came with HW2.5. If you get the HW3 upgrade, some people have reported it's free, and not $1k. There's a thread on here about that. And, once you get the HW3 upgrade, you don't have to pay $6k for FSD, you can pay monthly, $100; and it's easy to do a month, and cancel. I did it to test the FSDbeta for a month back in June, when the beta went wide release. I will probably do it again in about a month, for ski season, and it's nice to have the car drive back and forth from the mountains, since they're almost 2hrs away.
Wow that's very interesting obviously I would do it without question if it was free it's just on my Tesla app it says it's $1,000. Let's say I pay the $1,000 or I get them to do it for free where do I go to sign up for the monthly FSD cuz I've never seen that
 
Upvote 0
Wow that's very interesting obviously I would do it without question if it was free it's just on my Tesla app it says it's $1,000. Let's say I pay the $1,000 or I get them to do it for free where do I go to sign up for the monthly FSD cuz I've never seen that

Its in the UPGRADES section of the app. If you dont see it, its likely because your car is currently not eligible because of not having the updated hardware.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: KenC
Upvote 0
Do you have any advice on how to get it for free lol
The 28 page (not post, pages of posts) thread on that discussion is here:



My own "TL ; DR" (too long ; didnt read) version of that thread is that some service centers gave it away free, before tesla formalized the process, or by mistake, and others didnt make the same mistakes.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: KenC
Upvote 0
The 28 page (not post, pages of posts) thread on that discussion is here:



My own "TL ; DR" (too long ; didnt read) version of that thread is that some service centers gave it away free, before tesla formalized the process, or by mistake, and others didnt make the same mistakes.
Thanks for all the info. I was going to see if I could find a post about lug nut lb pressure cause I want to rotate my own tires (which I've never done) and I believe my lug nuts are m14x1.5 21mm but Teslas website says to use 129lb ft torque but how do I apply that torque? I have a basic tire iron it doesn't tell me how much force I'm using.
 
Upvote 0
1/2" drive is the size of the square post of the wrench; 1/2" x 1/2". 21mm socket, which has a matching 1/2" x 1/2" drive hole will fit the wrench. Drive size has nothing really to do with the amount of torque that can be applied, however you don't want a 3/8" drive (i.e., smaller than 1/2") if you can help it, as generally it will mean the wrench will have a smaller maximum torque that can be applied. An example:


edit: As it appears you're not familiar with a torque wrench: A torque wrench generally has a twistable handle which is calibrated with the amount of torque that will be applied before the wrench "slips" so that no further torque can be applied. Said torque is measured in foot-pounds (ft/lb or ft. lb.) and manufacturers have established the amount of torque required to keep nuts / bolts from loosening.

edit2: Sorry, it looks like I'm wrong about the torque value used for the lug nuts. Tesla spec IS in lb-ft. (a vector force) and is slightly different than my understanding of how torque is typically measured / stated. My experience is that torque wrenches are expressed in ft-lb (amount of work). I believe that there is a conversion factor that can be used to change one to another but if I understand tools correctly, as long as you keep your hands in the area of the torque wrench where they're supposed to be (i.e, the end and not the middle), applying the force needed to make the wrench slip (click) will be correct.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Does 1/2" mean it'll be the 129lb ft of torque?
I posted a link over in your other thread. If you use a regular tire iron, it's pretty much as tight as you can make it to reach 129lb-ft.
Under upgrades, you have a subscribe section:
by default 2023-10-21 at 6.26.09 PM.jpg
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
1/2" drive is the size of the square post of the wrench; 1/2" x 1/2". 21mm socket, which has a matching 1/2" x 1/2" drive hole will fit the wrench. Drive size has nothing really to do with the amount of torque that can be applied, however you don't want a 3/8" drive (i.e., smaller than 1/2") if you can help it, as generally it will mean the wrench will have a smaller maximum torque that can be applied. An example:


edit: As it appears you're not familiar with a torque wrench: A torque wrench generally has a twistable handle which is calibrated with the amount of torque that will be applied before the wrench "slips" so that no further torque can be applied. Said torque is measured in foot-pounds (ft/lb or ft. lb.) and manufacturers have established the amount of torque required to keep nuts / bolts from loosening.

edit2: Sorry, it looks like I'm wrong about the torque value used for the lug nuts. Tesla spec IS in lb-ft. (a vector force) and is slightly different than my understanding of how torque is typically measured / stated. My experience is that torque wrenches are expressed in ft-lb (amount of work). I believe that there is a conversion factor that can be used to change one to another but if I understand tools correctly, as long as you keep your hands in the area of the torque wrench where they're supposed to be (i.e, the end and not the middle), applying the force needed to make the wrench slip (click) will be correct.

I posted a link over in your other thread. If you use a regular tire iron, it's pretty much as tight as you can make it to reach 129lb-ft.
Under upgrades, you have a subscribe section:
View attachment 984195
Wow interesting I only have premium connectivity. Maybe it's because I have to get the $1000 hardware upgrade first
 
Upvote 0