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Charge port lock mechanism on a 2012 215k miles

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I’m looking for a solution to a broken charge port that I’m able to make work…
When plugging in a charger handle, the charge port doesn’t seem to recognize the charger and the light goes orange. The locking mechanism on the charge port that slots into the underside of the charger appears to catch on the housing maybe? It simply doesn’t engage. My car doesn’t have an emergency charge cable removal latch or lever. Early vin.

However, the last several times I’ve charged I place the charger in the charge port, it turns orange, I open the trunk and bang on the back of the charge port and simultaneously press the charger button with pressure towards the car. It hasn’t failed me yet. It does give me great anxiety, however.

Curious if debris has built up around the locking mechanism… I’ve fixed nearly everything on this car but nothing HV as of yet. Wondering if I could clean with alcohol and cotton swab, lube with the tiniest bit of grease or oil lubricant and cycle it through and repeat.

Experience with this or other input is invaluable as I cannot currently afford to be without a chargeable car.
 
I had a similar problem on a 2014. I thought they would replace it but the ranger said he just had to “adjust it”. It did involve removing the interior trim to get to the backside of the charging port.

I’ve definitely used electrical contact cleaner / lube on long wooden q-tip thingy to clean. Both my charging cable and the charging port on the car.

The port is smart - it is not energized just sitting there. It has to recognize the cable before connecting. That said, I also wouldn’t spray cleaner directly into the port.
 
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My charge port unit (-00-E) did not have a way to adjust the locking mechanism. I originally planned to file it down and create some clearance, then lube it… but it would be a hassle bc there’s no room to work and no easy way of remove the lever.

So I did what any sane person would do and sawed off the locking mechanism paddle, which was scraping against the port. I’m not worried about someone yanking on my charge cable to see if it’s locked. This solution is a good diy resolution if you ask me lol
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That defeats an important safety mechanism. Without that latch, the cable can be pulled out of the car while energized. I hope the charger and car would interrupt the circuit quickly, but I don’t know at what cost (big arc, blown fuse, voltage spike, etc)

With the latch, the cable can not be released until it is deenergized.
 
That defeats an important safety mechanism. Without that latch, the cable can be pulled out of the car while energized. I hope the charger and car would interrupt the circuit quickly, but I don’t know at what cost (big arc, blown fuse, voltage spike, etc)

With the latch, the cable can not be released until it is deenergized.
An accidental arc can ruin a lot of expensive components instantly. Could start a fire, etc.
Only charge with 110v outlet and not in a garage.
Replace the port or the safety.

I think it's just your imagination or you're giving Tesla too much credit. People have been pulling J1772 out of the charge port while charging for many years.
 
“I’ve gotten away with it so far” is not the same as “there is no added risk”.

I am no in a position to judge the added risk so just wouldn’t do what you’re suggesting. I hope anyone that finds this, and decided to do it, understands what they are taking on.
 
“I’ve gotten away with it so far” is not the same as “there is no added risk”.

I am no in a position to judge the added risk so just wouldn’t do what you’re suggesting. I hope anyone that finds this, and decided to do it, understands what they are taking on.
Overreacting. I yanked it out at 91kw last night and it instantly clicked and went red before it was out of the port. I appreciate your caution.

As with many parts on my first run S, Tesla should have tested in-house instead of making their fleet a bunch of Guinea Pigs. In all sincerity, I’m not worried at all. Zero.
 
@Boston Burley
Even after removing the charge port unit, shaving down the locking tab wouldn't have work either or maybe lubricating the other end of the tab lever?
I'm having same issue, usually it will takes me about 10-20 times inserting the SC charging cable in & out until the locking tab engages.
Could be the power supply or grounding for the servo? Try disconnecting it and looking for crustiness, could be at the bolt holes if they are a ground.
 
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@Boston Burley
Even after removing the charge port unit, shaving down the locking tab wouldn't have work either or maybe lubricating the other end of the tab lever?
I'm having same issue, usually it will takes me about 10-20 times inserting the SC charging cable in & out until the locking tab engages.
There’s no way to shave down the locking portion. You could see on the back of the paddle portion I cut off that it was scraping seriously hard each time I forced it to work. Simply removing that piece proved that it had been the source of the trouble.

I did order a nice condition used charge port. I have firmware ready for install. The chance of danger is unnecessary and I hate having something on the car that doesn’t work as designed. It was under $250 on eBay and that’s a small price to pay for peace of mind.
 
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There’s no way to shave down the locking portion. You could see on the back of the paddle portion I cut off that it was scraping seriously hard each time I forced it to work. Simply removing that piece proved that it had been the source of the trouble.

I did order a nice condition used charge port. I have firmware ready for install. The chance of danger is unnecessary and I hate having something on the car that doesn’t work as designed. It was under $250 on eBay and that’s a small price to pay for peace of mind.
Did replacing your charge port resolve the issue for you? I have a charge port that is clicking with no latch unlock even when I push unlock on my 2013 Model S charge console screen. The port sounds like it's trying. It goes click, pause 1 second, click, pause, click, pause for about 30 seconds and then gives up. If I manually push the lock down with a flathead screwdriver, then I can slow DC charge but then the latch won't come back up either unless I pull it up with a dental tool. I bought a replacement used ebay port, installed it, re-installed firmware, and the new port is doing the identical thing with one new problem. Now the car is showing the Charge Port is Open constantly even when it's closed. Anyone have another idea what the root cause is?