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Charging question....

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I know to many this will appear a dumb question - but I cannot find the answer and I am not an expert in such matters.

When using the Tesla connector (the one that came with the car) - or any connector for that matter, I assume it's OK to leave it 'on' all the time? In other words - you connect it to your car and it immediately starts charging (you don't turn it off, connect to the car then turn it on). And the same when you disconnect - tell the car to stop charging, pull out the plug - but it's still 'on'.

I am having a 32 amp connection completed on Monday and was wondering about leaving the plug (the car end of the plug) 'live' so to speak. Plugging it in 'live' and disconnecting 'live'.

Be gentle!

Thanks. :)
 
I actually wondered this when I got my wall charger installed because surely someone could just pull up to your drive while you're out and help themselves?!

But yes they're designed to be left on; I'd probably switch off if I'm away for more than a day though.
 
Most equipent lasts longer when left connected to a supply as the surge when connecting power to the internal electronics can possibly damage them.
Another argument it that power spikes in the supply can also cause damage and of course if switched off for most of the time will miss many of them so its your decision.

Mine are always powered up and have been for years.
 
I know from many hours in recording studios, that you don't plug in and unplug 'live' instruments - you get a huge 'bZZZZZt' sound! I was curious about plugging and unplugging a 32amp 'live' cable into the car.
 
The system is designed to be safe, and turn off all power to the car either when the charger demands it (the charger being a part of the car) or if the connector is unplugged. The only exception to this is if someone decides to do something a bit unsafe, such as use a non-interlocked commando outlet to charge using the UMC, or similar portable EVSE unit and then pulls the commando connector out when charging. Definitely not at all sensible or safe..

The way the system works may be of interest. All that's inside a charge point, or the UMC (I'll just use charge point from now on), as far as controlling charge is concerned, is a circuit that energises a low voltage (+12V to -12V) control pilot line, this is the small pin to the top left looking at the connector on the car. There is also a proximity signalling pin, the one that seems to be inset slightly.

Initially, the charge point applies +12V DC to that connection, fed with a source impedance of 1,000 ohms. In this state, the contactor in the charge point, that switches mains power on and off to the car charger, is open, so the power is off. As soon as the connector is plugged into the car, a resistor to ground inside the car charger loads the +12V DC down to +9V. The charge point detects this voltage drop and switches on a 1,000 Hz pulse train on the control pilot, with the voltage ranging from the loaded +9V to -12 V.

The duty cycle of this pulse train (the ratio of high to low time) tells the car charger the maximum current that is available from the supply. The charger then sets itself internally to never draw more than that maximum current, and when it's done that it switches an additional resistor on to the control pilot to load the positive going side down to +6V.

The charge point senses this additional voltage drop and turns on the contactor to supply mains power to the car. The connector on the car is normally latched in place by a locking pin that is driven by a small motor into the slot visible at the top front edge. This holds the connector in place until commanded to release. The command to release the latch is always after the car has signalled the charge point to turn off, by disconnecting the second load resistor. If the latch failed, and the connector was pulled out, because the proximity pilot pin is deliberately made shorter it always disconnects first. The instant it disconnects it signals the charger to switch off and stop drawing power, to prevent any arc. The charge point will then turn off power to the cable as the control pilot will no longer be loaded, making the cable safe.

There are other safety measures included to detect things like the cable being damaged, chucked in a bucket of water, etc, to ensure that the cable cannot be energised when not plugged in to the car.
 
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I don't think its live when you plug in. There is a signal exchanged between the car and charger before power starts to be delivered. They have a wee chat to establish what the max currant avaliable/wanted is, then ramp up to that over a minute or so (watch the dash, immediately after plugging in it will say 0/32 or 0/16 or 0/13, then increase that to 32/32 etc over a short period). Only that signal pin is powered.

Same for unplugging - you can't just yank the cable out, you have to unlock the charger first, which politely terminates the charge cycle and releases the connector.

Power is available full time tho, so anyone could go through this process to 'steal' your electricity if they can get to the plug. Some charge points have physical or software locks to stop this, no idea how much of a problem that might be in reality.
 
The UMC (supplied with car) aka Granny Charger or the professionally installed wall connectors all switch off power to cable internally when cable not connected to car. So the visible shiny bits are not 'live' but become live a few seconds after plugging in. A control pin terminal in car cables detects when cable 'in' car.
 
Thanks for that - so the UMC connector is actually the switch? The car talks to that? That makes total sense, but I really wasn't sure.

Thanks also Avendit - I don't know how to multi quote. :)

My question is answered.

Yes, the UMC, or charge point, is really just a power switch. It's main function is to only turn power on to the charger in the car when it demands it, and to keep the cable and connector isolated from the incoming mains supply when it is not both plugged in to the car and with the charger in the car requesting power. Once the car has charged to the set level the charger signals to the UMC/charge point to turn off, making things relatively safe.

The cable between the supply or outlet and the charge point or UMC will remain live though. This cable must have adequate electrical protection that meets the requirements for any outlet used to charge an EV, whether that supply be a permanent cable run from the supply, or something like a commando outlet. The latter must be protected in the same way as a charge point supply, so have DC tolerant earth leakage protection (usually a Type B RCD), plus adequate over-current protection for the cable size, plus, in the case of any installation that has a PME earthing system, some form of open PEN protection. Often the above protection is built-in to a charge point now, but I'm not aware of any interlocked commando outlet that has any such built in protection, so it must be provided separately.
 
Very helpful indeed - thank you! I thought it would be nutty that the plug at the car end of the charger would be chucking out 32 amps day and night. I assumed it wasn't at there would have been a Frankenstein shower of sparks each time I connected - now I know! Many thanks.
 
One of the commonly asked questions when people have a problem with their charger is they look into the plug and they see a short pin. This is by design so it breaks contact first when unplugging turning off the charge point.

Its also safe to leave it constantly plugged in as the car stops drawing when it has enough and then applies a hysteresis curve to keep the battery topped up (ie it has to drop a certain amount before starting to charge which it then does as fast as it can, rather than a really slow trickle charge to counter vampire drain once full).