I think you have gotten the correct answers above, but let me confirm... speaking as someone who also went from eGolf to 3.
EGolf does not have active battery management system. When you turn it off, everything goes off. From my experience, it doesn’t even remember your radio station or volume. Or your HVAC setting. As a result, it has almost zero draw while sleeping. Tesla has a lot of ‘vampire loss’, some due to settings like summon, overheat protection, sentry mode , etc. as already pointed out. But also quite a bit due to active battery management system that manages things like battery temperature and cell balancing (and much more). Also, the car is always at least a little awake and “connectable”. Or even connected if it is downloading software or uploading logs.
so... you can only truly measure Driving energy usage in a single driving session. And you should heed the manual... plug in nightly. If you don’t drive near the capacity, set the battery to charge somewhere between 60 to 80%... but otherwise 90 is fine.
Thanks!
The eGolf really does suffer very little draw while sitting idle. I used to just leave it unplugged whenever I left for 2-3 week vacations and upon returning, will have lost very little power/mileage.
If the battery management system is a big draw, then that makes sense as to how much mileage is lost while sitting idle. There's about to be a contradictory post a little further down.
A bit off-topic, but the e-Golf climate control resetting to 72F is a feature. A dealer or DIY OBD tool can change it so that it remembers your climate settings between drives.
Back to topic, yes the Model 3 and e-Golf have very different energy consumption profiles when parked. e-Golf can be left parked for months and the 12V will still be fine and the traction battery will have lost an insignificantly small amount of energy.
Thanks!
Again, also agreed - literally negligible draw when parked for the eGolf!
From all the previous comments, I think you should measure separately the two types of consumption you are evaluating.
First, about the
driving consumption:
I would advice to use some Apps, like Tezlab or TeslaFi....,
to get detailed information and compared your results with other users.
Also you can get a lot of additional measurements with the Scan My Tesla App,
which requires getting an ODB2 Bluetooth transmitter and a special harness.
Second, about the
overnight losses or phantom drain:
Try to let your car sleeping for at least a full day, or even a full weekend or more if you can.
Last time, when travelling, I kept my car unplugged for a longer time, I loose 6% over 2 weeks,
parked in a garage at about 50 F at night and 60 F during the day.
I turned off Sentry, Alarm, and Summon (from the AutoPilot menu), and didn't used my Tesla App or any other App.
I have a LR battery, so 6% of 300 miles (480 km) is 18 miles (29 km) for 14 days or 1.28 miles (2 km) a day.
I will look for an opportunity to try this. Last time I parked it idle for days (at home with no sentry), I checked the app once a day to check losses, and day-over-day, the losses were negligible as well.
Common misconceptions here.
Most of the power usage while you're not driving your car has nothing to do with battery management, and more for data gathering and unoptimised feature functionality.
For thermal management, the temperatures at which is decides to cool or heat are further away than you'd think, and usually the temperature difference doesn't require much active power. For example, if the heat threshold was 35C and it's at 38C, it doesn't take much to keep it below 35C. Cooling the battery doesn't mean making it cold, just slightly less hot. Heating it is more expensive, but only a problem in very cold temps if stored outside for a prolonged period. Tesla uses very little active thermal management, certainly much less than is commonly thought. But of course, the times it does do so are important.
For capacity/balance management, the amount of power used for this is incredibly negligible. Charging your phone from the car would use more power. The blinkers actually probably take more power? Balancing can be done while the rest of the car is asleep, so there's really nothing else going on. The car is actually designed well to sip very little power, but "features" and "data" put the car in a waked state much more often than necessary.
I'm also certain the eGolf has battery management, just not liquid cooling.
Thanks!
Here's the contradictory post about battery management system power draw. I'm not sure who is more right. I'll try to see if there's any research to dig up.
Mine loses between 1 kWh to 3 kWh per day via phantom drain, as calculated/verified by TeslaFi.
During winter, I expect the phantom drain to increase even more. It's a bit of a bummer but c'est la vie.
Thanks!
This works out to roughly 2-6% a day, I think. I was getting less draw than that at home.
Thanks for all the responses and perspectives. Trying to unify all of these into something cohesive:
- Left completely alone, with no high draw functions on (no summon, no sentry and no cabin protection) means the car is likely in deep sleep and can therefore not expend a lot of battery
- Multiple short trips in a day will add up beyond the mileage, as that also means the car likely does not enter deep sleep that much and thus the draw between trips is much higher
- Because the best thing to do is to plug in the car every night (and charge to 80-90% max), then it doesn't really matter that the car will always suffer reduced range in that kind of use case (in long distance single trip use cases, you will get close to the range as advertised)
I can live with that, it doesn't negatively impact me in any way (I'm never going to both need to make multiple stops AND drive 400km in a single day). It's basically the way I lived while I had my eGolf and after the first-time EV ownership range anxiety jitters went away, I almost never thought about range. Not that I was suffering from range anxiety with the Model 3, it was more "Hey, how come I'm getting nowhere near the mileage that was advertised?" type of confusion.
It would have been nice to know beforehand, but I guess I could have done more specific research before buying to avoid these kind of surprises. It goes to show how different a Tesla is from other cars, even other EVs.
Thanks everybody for your help and patience! If there's anything I missed in my assumption points above, please do feel free to let me know!