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It's worth at least $40K to the right buyer, who values FSD. Low kms also help. Free connectivity is just a bonus. I'd say list it at $39.9K and see how it goes.

No way they will be able to sell 250K of the Cybertrucks if the prices aren't reasonable. The prices will be on par, if not less, than the Ford F-150 Lightning. So $90'ishK for the highest trim and $60'ishK for the lowest trim.

To me, it doesn't matter as I'll be buying the highest trim with the longest range possible. Also have FSD selected and hoping that they honour the locked-in price. Getting very excited!

If you can't beat them (or get them to fix this issue), then join them. LOL. No reason why you also can't buy TSLA stock right now, but note that there is no guarantee on what it will do over the next 10 years. I suspect it will at least 10x and likely 20x by 2032 but that's not a guarantee...

Wait until next spring/summer and you'll notice that some of your miles magically come back. I've had several Teslas now and my range drops in winter and then gets back up in summer. LOL. I wouldn't be too worried. As you said, that's what the warranty is for.

I think you're reaching here a bit: the evidence you're portraying shows the car is sitting for months at a time. Which is vastly different than being used daily. Let me provide you with an example: I used to have a gas lawnmower which we used from May to September. After September, it'd be...

I'm the same. But then I look at my TSLA holding (which directly paid for all 4 Teslas) and I'm like, it's fine. The company is doing really well and TSLA stock is so undervalued right now that it's comical. Tesla, please fix this vibration issue. But even if you don't, please continue to...

One last thing: you're showing a graph that says average storage in MONTHS. I drive every day (pretty much) so we are not talking the same thing here. For 99% of the folks, they drive several times a day on average. So your post is only applicable to those that are storing and in that case...

OK, we all agree. No one is disagreeing. But you have failed to demonstrate how much extra will the battery degrade if one is charging at 90% daily. Is it an extra 5% over 5 years? Is it an extra 10% over 10 years? You don't know the answer to that because there are too many variables at...

I've now owned 4 Teslas and my own experience with Tesla says different to what you just wrote above. Both my 3 LR AWD and Y Performance lost about 7% in the first year, then they tapered off. My used S P100D had no battery degradation for the duration that I owned it (20K miles) at 8% battery...

Research may indicate that low SoC is better for battery in terms of capacity loss but Tesla's own battery loss is not as severe as other batteries thanks to their Battery Management System/Software. As I said earlier and will repeat: it does not matter at what % you charge at as long as it...

I wonder if Tesla made any changes since the 2015 model year to rectify said moisture issues? Let's hope so and let's find it out together. I have faith that the battery itself will easily outlast my car ('21 Plaid). But I plan on selling mine once the Cybrertruck arrives LOL.

Yup. Anecdotally, you and I both could've just had a slightly "better" battery too. Too many variables here. Point is to charge it every night to whatever % you feel right (b/w 70% to 90%) and try to not go down to less than 10%. Supercharge infrequently or when you're on trips. Do NOT...

I had the Michelin CC2 in my Model Y Performance. No issues running them all year around.

I get that we're all trying to maximize our battery shelf life, but studies performed by the owner of the Tesla "Stats" app said that it doesn't matter at what % you charge to, as long as you're not charging beyond 90% and dropping the SoC to under 10%. Keep it plugged in at 70%, 80%, or 90%...

Hi there, I find your posts very informative. I'll look into Arnott AS-3380. Did you do all 4 sides? How much was your all-in cost?

If you factor in resale value, the cost difference b/w a Model Y LR and Model Y Performance is practically nill. Therefore, if you can stomach the extra payments then it's a no-brainer to go with the Performance. Swap out 21"s for 19" and not only will you get similar range as LR but your...

So you're going a bit smaller, I take it? Ride quality with the 255/50/19 is surprisingly very similar to the 275/35/21. They even perform as well as the stock tires. Biggest difference is that i am no longer worries about messing up my rims by going over potholes. LOL.

With stock rims, 255/45/20 would fit according to my tire shop. So you should be good to go! What tires are you planning on buying? In hindsight, I should have gone ahead with 265/45/20 but I wanted even more of a sidewall.

Well said. But money is always a factor: $10K is a fairly large sum even if you're financially well off. $10K invested in brain-dead low-cost index funds will yield 7% average return over the long run. So if money is a concern, getting LR and then adding the boost is the way to go.

I actually went ahead with 255/50/19 tires with Replika R241 rims. They do fit, but they're a tad bit longer than stock tires.

Hi srlawren, Yes, I did go ahead with the 2020 Model Y Performance. It is actually a "new" vehicle but it was a demo with 50 kms. It ended up with $9K+ discount so it was a no-brainer. You point out some great points, but resale wise, 2020 Model YP would bring in more value in 2 years than a...

My VIN is 42,xxx with Sep '20 build date, and it came with 82 kWh battery (MY Performance).

While I would agree with you and want what you wrote, think about it from Tesla's point: batteries is the constraint. Therefore, why would they give out more battery than is required? They'd leave the 400+ mile range for the S Plaid+ and possibly the X Plaid+. I don't believe that 400+ mile...

Yeah, that's what I'm suspecting as well. They will likely increase the range marginally but will put less battery. BUT: less battery = less weight which means better performance and range (theoretically). It'd be interesting to see regardless.

How about Michelin CrossClimate 2 in 245/45/20 size? You'll have more sidewall but less width.

Tesla is so far ahead (aka fast) from 0 - 60 that it still wins the overall quarter-mile race until 120 mph despite the other vehicles being much quicker than Tesla from 60 to 120 mph. As @holmgang had stated, Tesla Model 3 P is nowhere near as fast from 60 to 120 mph as other 400+ hp cars...

This is really helpful to know. Thanks for this! I'm more and more warming up to white interior.

This is a superb post. 2020 Manufacturing date is Sept 5, 2020. 2021 would be in the month of May or so, expected to arrive by end of June. I don't mind the white exterior but I do prefer the black interior. So white on white isn't my top choice. My daily commute is no more than 30 miles...

Logically, it makes more sense to go with the 2021 LR AWD. But it appears that resale value for the performance is much higher so speaking strictly from financial perspective, it makes more sense to go with the 2020 MY P. This isn’t an easy decision as I a) don’t really need the speed as LR...

I'm leaning towards the 2020 model as it will likely retain a higher value, though I lose out on the heated steering wheel which is a huge plus as we live in a cold-weather climate.

Which would you get if the price are the same: 2020 Model Y Performance White on White with very few miles 2021 Model Y LR AWD, blue on black with 0 miles and brand spanking new. The 2021 version also has a heated steering wheel, upgraded interior, dual pane windows, etc. Both prices are...

Correct: eMMC is a cheaper and a compact option as compared to SSD. A good read here: eMMC and SSD are just different flash storage, right? My point stated above remains: Tesla could and should have given the owners more storage capacity. They cheaped out and I hope they have learned from...

Your defense falls flat when you realize that a 2012 iPhone (iPhone 5) had 8 GB of storage on their cheapest model, and you could get 16 GB and 32 GB of storage capacity. Again, 2012 isn't that long ago. I remember buying a new laptop in 2011 and it had 1,000 GB of storage. Heck, my 2013...

I bit the bullet and ordered tri-motor w/ FSD couple of days ago. I hope to receive delivery sometime in early 2024, or 3 years from now.

I was in the same conundrum as you: to go with LR AWD w/ boost or just go all out and get the M3P. Money was not an issue for me. And like you, I come from a background where I've had multiple high-performance cars. I "settled" for the LR AWD and it is so quick as it is that I didn't even...

I thought about it, but decided to hold off on it as we are seeing a lot of issues (heat, lack of acceleration in cold battery pack, and general build quality).

This is exactly what I've heard from multiple other sources as well: charge from 30% up to 90% if possible. Also: don't leave it plugged in unless storing the vehicle for more than 1 week. I'd definitely plug it in but leave the SOC at ~50% if I'm not driving the car for an extended period of...

I was under the impression that battery degradation has a small impact on performance. It is interesting to see that this is not the case here. Thanks for sharing the video.

If this is true, it is a great location.

Your username checks out: you HAVE had one too many. LOL.

Pre-heating still uses electricity and consumes battery. A heated steering wheel is infinitely better as you get the heat where it is most needed: your hands. It is also instantaneous and it does NOT use the main battery but rather the 12V battery which is again more efficient. I say this...

While I agree with you, I also know that there is no meaningful way to determine how BAD the battery degradation is (would be?) if we charge at 80% vs. 90%. No one knows. Do you definitively know?

Correct. If you are able to close the app (I've an iPhone so I swipe up to close out of the app) then within an hour or so, the car will go to sleep. The car will remain asleep until I open the app (or the Tesla App) or approach the car and open one of the doors. I didn't drive for one day...

I picked 90% as that's what the manual says. Typical day would mean I'm using 15% of the battery, but some days (random) can be as much as 60% resulting in just 30% battery remaining. I try not to go below 30% if I can help it, and my car has never gone below 20%. I'll also report back in 10...

Car won't sleep only if the StatsApp is running in the background. If you close the app then it won't "ping" the car and let it go to sleep. I have both the StatsApp and TeslaFi and my car sleeps regularly.

Here is the thing: no one knows exactly how much extra the battery life is if you do 5% to 60% rather than 25% to 80%. Will the battery last 10% more if you go 5 -> 60 rather than 25 -> 80? Does anyone really know? All I know is that the battery is rated to last 500K miles and still retain...

Stock 19" or 20" rims also won't fit the tires that Nokian comes in. LOL. I'd rather go good quality after market rims anyways. Local tire says 255/50/19 would fit and clear. But speedo will be off and it may screw around with traction control etc.

I'm leaning towards the 19" but am curious if 245/50/19 would fit (it's a tad bit larger than OEM size which would throw off the speedometer).

Yes, I'm getting the performance with the 21" rims. I've had an excellent experience with the Nokian WRG4 all-weather tires without me having to switch every season. So I want to get these tires, but they do not come in 255/45/19 or 255/40/20 sizes. I'm leaning towards getting 255/50/19 but...