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(Coronavirus) On UV Sanitization

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some good news: I got a quick refund from the seller, for the led 'uvc' corncob light.

I bought mine pretty early on and it was $100 for the lamp and remote/base.

the seller did not give instructions on the lamp's return. he did not ask me any questions or put up a fight. and that's pretty unusual. wonder what this means.

perhaps this is going to be a scandal in china? this item sold big, from what I could tell, and if they are all fake (not uvc, as promised) then its a big deal. if people bought these and ended up taking chances they should not have, due to trusting that these were doing their actual job, that's pretty big news. lots of low level sellers (like mine) who bought from someone who maybe had a level up from him. but I do think that once word gets out and amazon cancels them all, users are going to want refunds and the whole thing is going to backfire.

maybe the goal, all along, was just to get 'use' of our money for a while? who knows.

the more I read about this issue on hackaday, the more I'm thinking that it can't be possible to put this many real uvc leds on there for this price. and that uvc leds still just aren't strong enough to make sense, here.

Probably don't want to upset the buyer and getting complaint. The one I ordered, link to the sales page no longer works. Will ask for a refund.
 
I wonder what the actual cost of those corncobs were. the markup was very high and I jumped in during the initial panic-buy. I was right to buy the glass bulbs, as many are now out of stock, but the led ones - we'll have to read about this in history, once it gets written. I bet there's a story behind this that's worth hearing.

I do feel bad for the sellers caught in the middle. if you are going to ask for a refund, do it sooner rather than later and not wait.
 
for those that have an amazon prime account, I suggest using the 'help' link at the bottom of amazon's page and navigate thru the 'call me on the phone' option. its there but you have to work to find it, sometimes.

I'm going to call, have a chat with a real person (if you are Prime, you can always reach someone real) and try to explain that this whole set of product is fraudulent and dangerious and should be removed entirely from the site.

if more people actually call and explain this to the CS rep, I think it will reach critical mass and they'll have to investigate the whole thing. I'm hoping we can get these removed from the market, as a placebo is really dangerous.

the 'community' has to police itself, since, well, no one else seems to care enough...
 
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that looks like a decently long bulb. balast and all. looks like the bulb base plugs right into the black box?

I have this on order:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CV2W12E/

I like that its 12vdc; so I can easily switch it on and off, safely, likely with a simple SSR, under cpu control.

2 of those bulbs can be in the box; maybe one on the top of the box and one on the side; I will still use the motor turntable so that things get exposure from all sides.

that vendor shipped fast; will report how well it went (not amazon prime, just amazon seller).
 
That's fine for a cloth mask, but NOT the N95 types. Studies have shown trying to clean them with any chemical agent (e.g., alcohol) degrades their filtering ability. If you MUST reuse an N95 (sadly needed with shortages), it's best to let them COMPLETELY dry out, ideally for 3 days, before using again. Of course to do this, they should NOT be in a plastic bag.
Battelle is using hydrogen peroxide vapor to decontaminate N95 masks.

UV is probably not ideal for masks as it may damage them.
Hospitals use autoclave, which is super heated steam under pressure. If it were me, I would probably try to use steam. Maybe try one of those steamer pots used for food. Steam the mask then let dry. Trick is to find optimal temp. Autoclave does 132 C / 270 F for about 20 mins.
 
just realized that the company that makes the UV sensor that many of us are using, also makes one for uv-c!

GUVC-S10GD Genicom Co., Ltd. | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey

from the data sheet it seems to be identical to the UVA one that everyone has on their breakout boards, except its more 254nm focused. same diode voltage, same interface, etc.

I ordered a few of those and some of the more expensive uvc sensors.

Ditto on the order.

What's your plan for measuring that S10GD? It outputs in the nano-amp range - I don't think even my bench scope can pick that up. Some sort of op-amp in front of it?
 
Ditto on the order.

What's your plan for measuring that S10GD? It outputs in the nano-amp range - I don't think even my bench scope can pick that up. Some sort of op-amp in front of it?

comparing the specs of the guva-s12sd (which the adafruit and clones use) and the guvc-s10gd, the uvc sensor puts out about half the current compared to the uva.

it looks like I can just unsolder a uva diode from a clone, put this in and get at least half scale out for full scale 'intensity'.

the parts came in yesterday! I'm actually short on the breakout boards and I want those op-amps and gain stages to be board-and-trace-based and not green-wire based ;)

the purple generic breakout boards are sold out and only the slow boat versions seem to be available. I ordered 5 or 10 of those but they wont be here for a while, and I don't want to butcher the generic purple board I do have, now.

the eevblog guy has a microcurrent box. I have one of those but never got a chance to use it; it might be useful.

I don't know if a 'high end' op amp is needed but, yes, SOME gain stage is needed. if you are trying to make a real meter, you'll want the cleanest and quietest gain stage you can get (instrumentation amp, so 3 op amps, at least) - but for my use, just checking of uvc is 'working', even a sloppy gain stage will work.

my current sensor board has 2 analog slots and they are both taken by the uva sensor, one on adafruit and one generic. when I get more of one of them (adafruit is on the way, too), I will transplant one of my digikey valuable uvc sensors and do a test run.

BTW: can anyone recommend safety glasses for uvc? I need goggles that go over glasses; all the ones I see are in place of glasses.
 
when I ordered from adafruit, they were open, at least taking orders and shipping when they could.

I got one from amazon a month or so, ago, when the 'craze' was first starting to happen. got 2 generics, but ruined one (that will teach me not to follow Some Random Dude(tm)'s web page). I have 10 or so from adafruit on order, but not sure when they'll get here. I can try using one of theirs for transplanting, too, but they are so well made, I hate to ruin them ;)
 
when I ordered from adafruit, they were open, at least taking orders and shipping when they could.

I got one from amazon a month or so, ago, when the 'craze' was first starting to happen. got 2 generics, but ruined one (that will teach me not to follow Some Random Dude(tm)'s web page). I have 10 or so from adafruit on order, but not sure when they'll get here. I can try using one of theirs for transplanting, too, but they are so well made, I hate to ruin them ;)

Ahh ok. Is the op-amp you have on your generic also a MCP6001?
 
Ahh ok. Is the op-amp you have on your generic also a MCP6001?

on the generic, its lm358

517kkD5Z-ZL._AC_SL1102_.jpg
 
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So, I finally finished the build of my UV-C disinfecting box. Here's some images and details.

Parts and tools needed:
  1. Igloo ice chest
  2. UV-C bulb (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085JPG789/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1)
  3. Aluminum foil
  4. Hot glue gun and glue sticks
  5. Closet door guides (Prime-Line Tan Bypass Closet Door Guide-N 7527 - The Home Depot or similar)
I lined the sides, bottom, and top of the ice chest with aluminum foil which was glued on with the hot glue.The closet guides were drilled into the bottom to act at standoffs for packages and mail to hold them upright and off the bottom of the box (so the bottom can be disinfected as well)I then drilled holes in the side of the cooler and filed it to make a space for the bulb to be inserted from the outside. Once the bulb was inserted, I screwed the bulb housing to the cooler side to keep it in place.Then I mounted the ballast/electronics box to the bulb and secured it in place with screws as well.


Overall view of box:

Box and Lid.jpg



Closeup of inside with bulb (on right) and standoffs.

Box.jpg



Showing 18 mw/cm2 with sensor on top of the bulb. I tend to get around 10 mw/cm2 on the leading edge of a package occupying about 3/5 of the volume of the box, and about .15 to ..20 on the furthest point on the shadow side of the box (via reflection).

Meter reading.jpg



The electronics/light mount on the outside of the box.

Outside Electronics.jpg



Closeup of the standoffs.

Standoffs.jpg
 
this breakout board is still in stock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VYA0AUK

same basic thing as the purple generic clone.

the uv sensor can be removed with some unsoldering skill and the uvC sensor put in its place.

the circuit can be tweaked if you need to change the feedback to/from 1M or 10M, although 10M is a bit high for my likes.

btw, the adafruit sensor uses a single op-amp stage and the purple (and this one) use two. the purple one shows a much higher output for a 6w (example) uvc light. I still am going to use a mix of 2 or even 3 sensors, but the adafruit one does not swing as much value in its as-shipped config.