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Currently stuck by the side of the road in France...

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The only thing I can think of is a hard reset, so lift the back seat, on the right hand side of the car just under the seat is a grey polystyrene cover - lift it off, you will see the HV connector - it has a plastic slider - you just pull that downwards and the connector pops up and it disconnects the main battery. This resets everything - just leave a minute or two and pull the lever back up - the connector will slide back down and make the connection again. On connecting and disconnecting you will hear a loud clunk as relays disengage and engage.
Usually the 12v battery would be disconnected first but i don't know if you have access to it or the tools to take off the battery lead - but perhaps talk to Tesla and suggest this - If your stuck your stuck - you cant get more stuck.
 
The only thing I can think of is a hard reset, so lift the back seat, on the right hand side of the car just under the seat is a grey polystyrene cover - lift it off, you will see the HV connector - it has a plastic slider - you just pull that downwards and the connector pops up and it disconnects the main battery. This resets everything - just leave a minute or two and pull the lever back up - the connector will slide back down and make the connection again. On connecting and disconnecting you will hear a loud clunk as relays disengage and engage.
Usually the 12v battery would be disconnected first but i don't know if you have access to it or the tools to take off the battery lead - but perhaps talk to Tesla and suggest this - If your stuck your stuck - you cant get more stuck.

Okay, thank you. I will try this -- but can I please just make sure -- this is for a Model S?
 
Breakdown on the way. They should be able to disconnect the 12v battery (I don't have any tools, can't do it myself). So, here's hoping.

And then if that works, I can remove pin-to-drive. I'm pretty outraged by the idea that this "protective" feature is making it impossible for me to drive the car.
 
In fact, I think it's totally nuts that this sort of situation isn't more widely known. I'm likely in difficulties because of the eMMC nonsense. If eMMC failure means that people won't be able to access pin-to-drive, then anyone who hasn't had eMMC replaced should not be using pin-to-drive.

I know this now -- but it really should be something Tesla makes strenuous efforts to inform drivers about...
 
sorry - i don't know the location - but will be under the frunk. you can literally pull the plastic side covers off without removing the frunk part - might be able to see it under there, else you'll have to look under the frunk itself.
see if you can google some pics - i would guess on the inside wing
(speaking from experience btw - but not as dramatic as you)
plenty of other possibilities but do check this as any mechanic can find it and if it is the fault is an easy fix to get you on your way
good luck

try this thread - not sure if it is this stud though
Ground Stud Nut over torqued
 
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In fact, I think it's totally nuts that this sort of situation isn't more widely known. I'm likely in difficulties because of the eMMC nonsense. If eMMC failure means that people won't be able to access pin-to-drive, then anyone who hasn't had eMMC replaced should not be using pin-to-drive.

I know this now -- but it really should be something Tesla makes strenuous efforts to inform drivers about...

Gotta disagree with you on this one. The screen isn't working, which means you've got no speedo so the car is essentially non driveable anyway, pin or no pin.

The fact your phone won't connect to the car either means its not just a screen not working issue unfortunately and there's more going on. Otherwise you could start the car that way.

Of course none of this helps you get going so I hope that breakdown manages to get you on your way.
 
Well -- the screen decided to come back to life, after 3 hours -- so we have now reached our destination. I feel incredibly lucky.

Gotta disagree with you on this one. The screen isn't working, which means you've got no speedo so the car is essentially non driveable anyway, pin or no pin.

The fact your phone won't connect to the car either means its not just a screen not working issue unfortunately and there's more going on. Otherwise you could start the car that way.

Of course none of this helps you get going so I hope that breakdown manages to get you on your way.

I can see your point -- but, I'm talking about the big centre screen. The smaller screen behind the steering wheel was fine the entire time; I would have had a speedometer.

I have now removed pin--to-drive -- so, I'm expecting that I'll be able to drive the car even if the big screen stops working again.

If anyone has thoughts about any additional actions/precautions to take, I'd be really grateful to hear.

And I am very grateful to everyone who replied and offered suggestions -- very much appreciated.
 
Well -- the screen decided to come back to life, after 3 hours -- so we have now reached our destination. I feel incredibly lucky.



I can see your point -- but, I'm talking about the big centre screen. The smaller screen behind the steering wheel was fine the entire time; I would have had a speedometer.

I have now removed pin--to-drive -- so, I'm expecting that I'll be able to drive the car even if the big screen stops working again.

If anyone has thoughts about any additional actions/precautions to take, I'd be really grateful to hear.

And I am very grateful to everyone who replied and offered suggestions -- very much appreciated.
I’d get the 12v checked… or maybe even proactively replaced
 
Enjoy the rest of your holiday and perhaps let Tesla sort it out when you get back. Now its just dawned on me - your Name - Dave Bartram? - Showaddywaddy? - that plus Leicester as your location - or just me barking up the wrong tree?

haha -- if I had a nickel for every time I've had that question since moving to Leicester, I wouldn't have had to buy a second-hand out-of-warranty Tesla...
 
Long shot, but if you have app connectivity to the car from the app (when our car computer failed, we didn't, so long shot), see if you can disable p2d from the app of the main drivers phone.

Surprising how much of the car still works when car computer fails.

What temporarily fixed our issue (comms gateway had failed which prevented the car computer from cleanly booting), was, after trying 12v disconnect, then HV disconnect, an overnight rest for the car, which coincided with Tesla service centre turning up to give the car a poke with a wired laptop. Latter was not needed in the end.
I have always been told get out of the car
close the door and give it 10 secs or so and return to vehicle...they say that should work/good luck
 
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If it’s eMMC related I recall a couple of suggestions which I’ll try and find but from memory:

- remove any USB devices especially music collections
- turn of phone Bluetooth as its trying to load your contacts

Essentially limiting anything that’s trying to use the memory is a good idea which is what I think the above is trying to do.

If it’s working at the moment, I think clearing your nav history and trip computers, but I’d google that first. I think the idea is clearing out stuff moves the area of memory being used to a different part which hopefully doesn’t have the issue.
 
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If anyone has thoughts about any additional actions/precautions to take, I'd be really grateful to hear.

Make sure you can start the car from the APP - my recollection is that, first time, there is a confirmation step that you have to do on the screen. If screen fails again, but the APP connects (didn't last time, but.) then START from APP will bypass P2D.

Just a thought (again, needs APP, but may not need APP to connect to car, just mothership - which might also not happen, but.) changing the car to VALET would also mean P2D was not needed ...

have always been told get out of the car
close the door and give it 10 secs or so and return to vehicle...they say that should work/good luck

Just so long as the door does then open!

Essentially limiting anything that’s trying to use the memory is a good idea

If it’s working at the moment, I think clearing your nav history and trip computers,

Yup,. that's the one I was thinking of. I remember back on early MS there came a point where a lack of "garbage collection" on trip history meant that it was taking up far too much memory.

From need-advice-tesla-updated-software-on-my-2013-model-s-now-im-being-forced-into-pricey-infotainment-upgrade.298655/#post-7535381

Go into "additional vehicle information". What is listed under "Infotainment Processor"?

Possible steps: (1) go into trips and reset (erase) all trip history and (2) do steering wheel reset.

From browser-crashing.237965

Almost gave up then remembered some old posts about clearing the cache back when I was on MCU1…..(I’m MCU2 these days).
So I deleted all my old “recent“ addresses locations in the navigation system ( a years worth).
Did a quick reboot and the browser works again.
Its back to working as crappy as it is ever was. LOL
slow and glitchy. At least it isn’t immediately crashing.

Clearing the Nav system logs a coincidence? Who knows but that’s twice now in last year it’s worked


I reported it to the local SC . They said the problem is caused by "a lack of available memory", and they suggested I clear all my navigation history. It took me a while to manually delete each stored location (by swiping right), and when I was done: no change. I did a hard reboot of the car using the Power Off button on the Safety screen: no change. Then I did an MCU reboot with the steering wheel switches: success! For the first time in months, I can view web pages, open links, and do normal web browsing without the browser unceremoniously crashing.

TL/DR: Manually delete all navigation history locations, then reboot the MCU to restore web browser utility. Don't know how long it'll last, but this is a dramatic improvement.
 
Well -- the screen decided to come back to life, after 3 hours -- so we have now reached our destination. I feel incredibly lucky.



I can see your point -- but, I'm talking about the big centre screen. The smaller screen behind the steering wheel was fine the entire time; I would have had a speedometer.

I have now removed pin--to-drive -- so, I'm expecting that I'll be able to drive the car even if the big screen stops working again.

If anyone has thoughts about any additional actions/precautions to take, I'd be really grateful to hear.

And I am very grateful to everyone who replied and offered suggestions -- very much appreciated.


FFS....yeah so I spaced and forgot that the S had the second screen....the fact that one of your 2 screens was working perfectly totally negates everything I said.

But that also makes it double weird....if the small screen was working properly it implies the car was at least booted up and active....so why wasn't the phone connecting.
 
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