CD,
No new tires yet as I think she is still in the 3-4K mile range. That should make a difference.
I think an even bigger difference could be had for little cost. Bilstein sets their ride heights by using C clips on the damper body. Their adjustable ride height truck dampers have multiple clip grooves allowing the owner to raise the lower spring perch and thus the car. Applying the same thought process to MS' coil spring dampers would allow you to put a lower groove on each damper to move the lower spring perch down. Putting the car at the Standard air ride height seems to be a very good place to start but there are two things to be considered. First, you loose ground clearance for parking stops and the like and, unlike air, you do not have the ability to easily and quickly raise the car. Second, Tesla has surely put a lot of thought into spring rate and preload such that they achieve the desired ride height unloaded and fully loaded. Reducing pre-load (affectively what you are doing when you lower the lower spring perch - you start off with less force on the spring) means you are now responsible for how the car sits fully loaded. There is a very real chance of having the car hit the bump stops when going over bumps at gross weight.
Most "lowering springs" have an increased spring rate to account for this change fully loaded gross weight ride height. This approach can be taken with MS but that requires either (1) winding custom springs or (2) moving over to 2.5" closed wound and ground springs. In short, there is some real work to be done here to do the job correctly.
Oh, and it is worth mentioning that the air spring dampers which "live" at these lower settings are both shorter in shock body and stroke (although I need to check that second part). To really properly do the lowering job like Tesla does, you would have to move to air dampers using coil springs (of perhaps a different rate).