Ultimately waiting will probably cost you more in paint correction. And all you need to do is have someone scrape your car with a shopping cart etc and you will incur even more cost, which PPF likely would have prevented reaching to the paint level. Saved us a few times already on our MS.
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Delivered less than one month. Already many chips on bumper!!
- Thread starter wolfwolf
- Start date
Ultimately waiting will probably cost you more in paint correction. And all you need to do is have someone scrape your car with a shopping cart etc and you will incur even more cost, which PPF likely would have prevented reaching to the paint level. Saved us a few times already on our MS.
but once PPF is applied it continues to protect the car from scratches and rock chips where as a new paint job will keep getting those rock chips and shopping cart and door dings and looking like it needs correction again. With PPF if one section gets damaged, it can be replaced, while the rest of the car stays protected.
Under $1000 if you're handy and willing to try to do it yourself. I did my doors, $400, 30" partial hood wrapped edges, partial fender, mirrors, $180, rockers $120. Front bumper is on the way, $180. I used 3M Scotchgard Pro from invisiblemask.com. There's another site that will pre-cut Xpel, carprotectionpros.com. All the parts I've done are fairly easy, since they're mostly flat, except for the mirrors. The front bumper will be the hardest, but I saved that for last since I practiced on all the other parts.
good luck on the front bumper. It was by far the hardest piece to do. It would have if you have another help you hold one edge in place while you pull on the other.
Thanks, I know it's going to be a bear. The top edge is wrapped, so I'll start at the top, and stick that piece good (no soapy water), then work on half at a time, start working down and to the edge, pulling all the way. I may slice the precut where the bumper creases out of view, just to make it a little easier.
Aerodynamic cars are just more prone to rock chips than square cars. This was true when I had the 1969 DS-21, the 2004 Prius, and it's true today. There are three solutions. 1) install PPF, 2) get a colour that is close to the bare metal colour 3) get a wrap that will chip, but is less expensive to install (and replace).
What you’re experiencing is the darker paint showing more imperfections. This is universal to all vehicles. Blue and black will show any paint defects and it sounds like your blue has tons of it. White paint hides most defects and you cannot see them in most conditions.
Some (well, actually all) of the blue Model 3's I've seen look gorgeous. When you said a White vs Blue I thought for sure you were gonna say the White was the problem. Because there were lots of issues with White for a while. Blue was one of my top choices. I ended up Midnight Silver.
Someone visited me with a 1 year old Red Model 3. It didn't look so good. Really looked dull. My 12 year old fire engine red Jeep I sold had better looking paint (at least where it wasn't rusted out it was)
I've noticed a very distinguishable difference before and after washing the multi-coat red. After two weeks of dirt build-up on roads here, the red becomes dull and ordinary. After cleaning, and especially after polishing it really shines - and people do notice.
Recently, at the auto shows and on a growing number of vehicles, I've encountered a really deep red which I haven't seen before. I first noticed it on the 2019 Accura NSX, and on a few other foreign cars (not super-class). It is a complex, dark and deep (almost bottomless) sparkling color which is difficult to describe (or capture on film). I have not seen the new Roadster in person, but it would look amazing on it.
Kilotango74
Active Member
Is this your first post on this forum? Have you looked at anything people have written about their Tesla? This is not news. The paint sucks, either get PPF, resign yourself to the fact it will not be a show car, or sell it.
