I'm aware the the LDU's are plagued with coolant leakage issues. It seems its not a matter of IF they will fail but WHEN they will fail. I have read over many modification threads on how to stop the leaking and corrosion but what if the G48 coolant was replaced with dielectric coolant. Engineered fluids makes a dielectric coolant specifically for electric vehicles. I have looked over the viscosity charts and cooling properties and looks like a good candidate for saving drive units. With a dielectric fluid would you even have to worry about it seeping into the inverter or rotor. It would still obviously leak the the G48 does but it would not corrode any electronics. Has anyone tested this yet?
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Dielectric coolant in model S to save LDU
- Thread starter kagy
- Start date
The coolant is about 80% as efficient as the g48 used in the cars as standard for specific heat, however it can dissipate heat at a greater rate then the coolant used. Unplugged performance use this coolant in their track built plaid if that says anything about it. I'm surprised its not a more common thing to use.
Biggest problem seems to be : * Elastomeric materials (rubber gaskets, O-rings, etc.) that are made to be used with water/glycol are usually not compatible with hydrocarbons such as AmpCool, and should be replaced.
faq.engineeredfluids.com
Am I able to run this through a Tesla battery and radiator? (ElectroCool® EC-100 Dielectric Coolant)
I am running a Tesla battery and radiator; I would like to run non-conductive fluid through both encase it shorts. I was wondering if this could be used?
My thinking here is it does not matter if this mixes with the electronics because its non conductive. It would be like a mineral oil pc. Call me crazy but I've been running it with no problems so far.Biggest problem seems to be : * Elastomeric materials (rubber gaskets, O-rings, etc.) that are made to be used with water/glycol are usually not compatible with hydrocarbons such as AmpCool, and should be replaced.
Am I able to run this through a Tesla battery and radiator? (ElectroCool® EC-100 Dielectric Coolant)
I am running a Tesla battery and radiator; I would like to run non-conductive fluid through both encase it shorts. I was wondering if this could be used?
I was going to swap to amp cool to save the LDU, but the cost is over $400 for the amp cool. So I was on the fence about it..was going to buy it next month and do the swap...till I found this bypass kit for $150. I just bought it today, but it shows it can be installed on the car and I can install it myself. So this is going on as soon as I get it. I will do a video on it, I am hoping its not to difficult to add the top portion plugs, but not dropping the lDU will save time and labor. Here is the video from the guy that made this kit:
I did contact the company that makes amp coolant in a plaid and they said it will be good in the older s coolant system. It is about $400 for 10L of it, to replace our coolant system fluid. They are working on a cheaper flush fluid to get the glycol out, as my local Tesla shop recommends I buy 20L to ensure we can flush it all out. So 10L to flush and 10L to be the permanent fluid and $200 in labor. So 1k to change to this fluid if there is not a cheaper flush fluid
Thank you for sharing the coolant delete kit @signatureAZ. I just ordered the aluminum version for my 16 P90DL. I've been sweating a LDU failure for a while now and my warranty just expired.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Does dielectric coolant really “solve” the issue?
Non-conductive != non-corrosive…
Non-conductive != non-corrosive…
The company that sells the amp coolant says, since it is sulfur free so it is non-corrosive. I read most di-electric coolants have sulfur which will eventually damage electronics.
I'm very excited about the idea of using dielectric coolant, but I do have some nervous reservations. Such as, will every single inverter component be able to handle the high temperature coolant immersion after the seals are compromised? Also, it would help to know a formulation suitable for cold-weather use, say 0 degrees F.
I did reach out to the company, to see if they have a time frame on the flush and they did say the amp cool ac-110 is what they suggest for the Tesla S and use it on their Test Plaid. Here is a powerpoint on the product and uses also. I plan on doing the bypass, with maybe adding a T line to also have the top line still connected, then the amp-cool will be even additional insurance of not having a failure due to water on anything. I will post up my bypass install on my LDU, once I get the parts.... Check out the attachment for reference..
