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Discussion of Lazer Linear LED bar

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Dang, do you drive without the top cover? this looks so dusty....
Think you responded to the wrong member, but no I don't drive with top or plastic housing cover removed. Car is almost to the 250k mile club, and drives down dusty western US roads.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I am using, just having no luck. Don't understand the ignition wire....Only want light to come on via switch.
Screenshot_20230521-111006.png
 
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Think you responded to the wrong member, but no I don't drive with top or plastic housing cover removed. Car is almost to the 250k mile club, and drives down dusty western US roads.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I am using, just having no luck. Don't understand the ignition wire....Only want light to come on via switch.
View attachment 939751
86 is battery ground 30 is 12V.
IGN connects to 12V also. Normally to the switched ignition (engine on) circuit so you don't run the battery down when car is off.
 
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Think you responded to the wrong member, but no I don't drive with top or plastic housing cover removed. Car is almost to the 250k mile club, and drives down dusty western US roads.

I am attaching the wiring diagram I am using, just having no luck. Don't understand the ignition wire....Only want light to come on via switch.
View attachment 939751
oh sorry for that!
 
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The additional lighting is really nice but this thing basically obstructs the whole cooling intake in the bumper, which is there for a reason
Whole cooling intake? Get your glasses out. Had a third party that has access to what one of 4 testing facilities in the US. You know those things that blow air real fast with smoke and computers.
GIF1goose-windtunnel.gif

Many things are on cars for a reason, some not so much. Some are inflated. Let me know when you have a wind tunnel and can do readings such as this.

Edit: So little more color. Person picked up the Lazr light bar from me and had it for a while. From what I understand it was digitized for size and so it could be in a computer in the location mounted. Then it was put into location on a plaid at first, then a raven. Raven is my front. Plaid is new one.

Don't have exact numbers on percentage of blockage, but the way the design of the bar was created it was done pretty well to not disrupt airflow. Maybe because it's on roofs often ... Or maybe because it's like a backwards rooftop box.

Even better was the run through the firewall. That person had access to photos of my car torn down so we could find the points to make it through.

Also just did a cross a couple hundred miles and two supercharger sessions in 90 degrees No problem.
 
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Is there a way to install the light bar without worrying about the CAN feature at all? Can it just go to a switch and run off 12v?

I am looking to install a true amber fog light bar for mountain driving so the Linear won’t work. Looking at things like Vision X with just a generic harness
 
Is there a way to install the light bar without worrying about the CAN feature at all? Can it just go to a switch and run off 12v?

I am looking to install a true amber fog light bar for mountain driving so the Linear won’t work. Looking at things like Vision X with just a generic harness
Yes and no.
If you have a pre-facelift S/X, then you can just tap into the 12v light signal.
If you have a facelift S/X, then you need to tap directly to CAN interface (also from OBD2-port).
If you have a refresh/palladium S/X, then you need to tap into CAN interface, using diagnostic-port only with an adapter.

And the reason is that the the light signals only go via the CAN interface on facelift/refresh.

I have myself just ordered a new light bar to my 2023 MS and will be using a wireless XBB dongle. You control this via mobile app.
See more information here: XBB Dongle
 
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I have a 23 MY.

I was just going to do what Zuikkis said and have a separate switch entirely. It’s only
Going to be used for mountain pass storms and such so the legality is not a big deal to me.

I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything that would prevent someone from doing the above plan. I am just going to do red to 12v battery and ground the black and then run the switch the drivers side. If it’s not that easy let me know
 
I have a 23 MY.

I was just going to do what Zuikkis said and have a separate switch entirely. It’s only
Going to be used for mountain pass storms and such so the legality is not a big deal to me.

I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything that would prevent someone from doing the above plan. I am just going to do red to 12v battery and ground the black and then run the switch the drivers side. If it’s not that easy let me know
I think this is fine, if you want it separate from the high beams.

(My above instructions were meant to use with high beams)

Just make sure the lights support 16 VDC (~15.5V) since the MY low voltage battery is not 12 VDC.