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Dragy runs for my 2021 MY LR 7 seat 19" Geminis w/tow

Daekwan

Member
Mar 9, 2021
85
86
DC
I certainly appreciate your real world experience and charts/graphs/measurements. Never thought I'd care for the extra speed but part of me would love to have LR+AB simply to have more fun with the car. I never thought the SR would be as much fun as its actually been.. and if the price difference was reasonable I would certainly consider the extra acceleration.

The main reason I wouldn't consider the Performance is the price increase includes the 21" wheels and from all accounts they suck lol. Look they do a great job at providing maximum performance.. but IMO the Sleeper Performance package is more attractive. If I did spring for the Performance the first thing I would do is sell the 21" wheel/tire combo.. or put some highly rated all season tires on the car like the Michelin AS4s. Who wants to pay $65K for a car.. then immediately need to buy new tires and/or wheels.

That said, its awesome to know that LR+AB gives you pretty much most of the benefits of the Performance.. but without the ride, range or wet/cold weather penalty of the 21" Turbine + summer tire combo. I look forward to you posting the runs for after purchasing the AB option.
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
@Daekwan your logic and mine mesh almost perfectly. I couldn't see spending all the money to buy the MYP, then tossing the wheel immediately and hope I recoup enough money to buy what I would like instead. Then I'd want to do the suspension as well. So pretty soon I was going to be in the price range of the MS LR and it will be a far slower car all around. So where we are works out pretty nicely for us.

I thought others might be in the same boat so to speak. I couldn't find any really hard data laid out with timeslips. I am an engineer and I like empirical evidence and that is repeatable. Hence the reason I made a bunch of initial runs to get a good baseline before I started any mode. I'm not gonna lie, I am still disappointed about how it ran stock. I'd like to chalk that up to needing 100% SOC and warm batteries my MYLR7 being heavier. Still, it begs the question, what is the point of advertising a stat if it is ONLY achievable under very specific circumstances. What are the odds of my rolling up on my friend's Macan, right when I come off a long, hot charge at 100% SOC? I wanted a real-world idea of what my car is capable of. Not the impromptu dig from a light. I can see it now "Hey buddy, give me about 15 min to warm my pack, then a bit more to get in the leopard stance, and then we can run." To me THAT is ludicrous.

I want instantly accessible power that I don't have to do anything special on the street. I don't care about bragging rights of what my car can do. I want to talk about what it can do right now, at any time. I have had some very quick track cars, but they sucked on the street as I'd have to ice down the intercoolers, make sure nothing was too warm, everything had to be just right. I wanted to get away from that model of performance and just have instant-on acceleration. So my posts and data show what you can likely expect most of the time you are out running. So I am posting a few more Dragy runs for where I am currently at with my MYLR7AB. I think I am going to get that as a license plate. ;)

I haven't done many runs yet with AB. These are at 70% SOC or less. Basically how I am at any given time on the street. The 0-60 is over 1/2 second quicker than my best run before. It is closer to 0.6-0.7seconds quicker than my typical run at equivalent SOC. Typically I was circa 5.1 with the car just being driven from my garage without warmed up batteries. As I mentioned earlier, Dragy was doing something goofy with the 0-X times and doing them in 6 mph multiples. I have no idea why but back to normal. Screws up my ability to compare 0-10 and 20 times where I was focusing on the launch differences.

1625675804742.png
1625675992218.png
 

Stach

Member
Mar 23, 2019
464
246
Madison, WI
@Daekwan your logic and mine mesh almost perfectly. I couldn't see spending all the money to buy the MYP, then tossing the wheel immediately and hope I recoup enough money to buy what I would like instead. Then I'd want to do the suspension as well. So pretty soon I was going to be in the price range of the MS LR and it will be a far slower car all around. So where we are works out pretty nicely for us.

I thought others might be in the same boat so to speak. I couldn't find any really hard data laid out with timeslips. I am an engineer and I like empirical evidence and that is repeatable. Hence the reason I made a bunch of initial runs to get a good baseline before I started any mode. I'm not gonna lie, I am still disappointed about how it ran stock. I'd like to chalk that up to needing 100% SOC and warm batteries my MYLR7 being heavier. Still, it begs the question, what is the point of advertising a stat if it is ONLY achievable under very specific circumstances. What are the odds of my rolling up on my friend's Macan, right when I come off a long, hot charge at 100% SOC? I wanted a real-world idea of what my car is capable of. Not the impromptu dig from a light. I can see it now "Hey buddy, give me about 15 min to warm my pack, then a bit more to get in the leopard stance, and then we can run." To me THAT is ludicrous.

I want instantly accessible power that I don't have to do anything special on the street. I don't care about bragging rights of what my car can do. I want to talk about what it can do right now, at any time. I have had some very quick track cars, but they sucked on the street as I'd have to ice down the intercoolers, make sure nothing was too warm, everything had to be just right. I wanted to get away from that model of performance and just have instant-on acceleration. So my posts and data show what you can likely expect most of the time you are out running. So I am posting a few more Dragy runs for where I am currently at with my MYLR7AB. I think I am going to get that as a license plate. ;)

I haven't done many runs yet with AB. These are at 70% SOC or less. Basically how I am at any given time on the street. The 0-60 is over 1/2 second quicker than my best run before. It is closer to 0.6-0.7seconds quicker than my typical run at equivalent SOC. Typically I was circa 5.1 with the car just being driven from my garage without warmed up batteries. As I mentioned earlier, Dragy was doing something goofy with the 0-X times and doing them in 6 mph multiples. I have no idea why but back to normal. Screws up my ability to compare 0-10 and 20 times where I was focusing on the launch differences.

View attachment 682269View attachment 682270

IMHO, your Dragy times are still very wonky, as there's no way that your MY is taking 2.1 secs to go from 54 to 60mph!

1625677340869.png
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
I agree that the interval on that one seems odd but the overall time seems spot on. I had another run with a lower state of charge but not within specs to be considered valid so I didn't post it but here it is and the intervals are showing how they should; 10 mph increments. I think I was down to about a 60% SOC when I did this run. This one showed it without rollout as well; 4.19.

1625681448519.png
 

Freewheeler

Vendor
Supporting Member
May 22, 2020
190
164
New York
@DayTrippin The red flag for me is less about the time and more about the variation in times. I can watch drag races all day long and every run has a 1/4 mile time within a 10th of a second or so until the battery gets pretty well below 50%. I'm curious why yours vary so much in such a short span of time.

What I have read elsewhere is that you should pre-condition the car while it's plugged in for maybe 20 minutes prior to departure. It not only conditions the cabin but also brings the batteries to temperature to optimize driving range and performance.

Sidebar, the last pair of Dragy times a couple of posts up show the first at 32 degrees and the second at 84 degrees, which would definitely make a difference.
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
@DayTrippin The red flag for me is less about the time and more about the variation in times. I can watch drag races all day long and every run has a 1/4 mile time within a 10th of a second or so until the battery gets pretty well below 50%. I'm curious why yours vary so much in such a short span of time.

What I have read elsewhere is that you should pre-condition the car while it's plugged in for maybe 20 minutes prior to departure. It not only conditions the cabin but also brings the batteries to temperature to optimize driving range and performance.

Sidebar, the last pair of Dragy times a couple of posts up show the first at 32 degrees and the second at 84 degrees, which would definitely make a difference.
I ran a lot of these cars so far with Dragy and usually the times are more consistent. I pointed this out earlier with my car there was more variability than most (but not all) that I ran. I did a lot of drag racing and consistent is what typically won the races for me, well fast and consistent. I have tried different ways of tipping in the throttle, pushing quickly to the floor, etc. It just seems to do what it wants. The road is pretty much the same ever time where I am running it. I can't detect any tire slippage. So it is very annoying to me that it isn't more consistent but I just live with it. Tesla will just say it is in spec, blah blah blah.

I understand the pre condition aspect, I could even trick and say going to a supercharger, my point is I am not going to do that every time I go out. Most of the time, when in my garage, it may not be plugged in. My garage is kept a nice temp by the AC so normally when I go out, the car is about 78F until I go out in the Florida heat.

That is why I accurately represent what my car's state is. I am not saying these are the best times it can do. I don't care what the best times it can do actually are. I don't always know when I am going to leave so it would be hard to do that every time. I want to know what it is capable of at any moment and know what likely the worst case is. This way I know what I at a minimum I can expect is. I would love it it could bang of consistent 4.2 0-60 times but if I have the keep it at 95% SOC or higher, pre-condition it every time, not very likely I am going to be able to enjoy it when I drive it as it will almost never be in that state. Might be fun to brag to my buddies if that mattered to me.

At this point, I am ok with a consistent 4.4 0-60 without battery prep and a high SOC. It is just quick enough to be a daily driver. It is going to be my wife's car and I'm sure she'll be fine with it. I just want it dialed in before she drives it all the time as I'll never get it back and I have a long wait for our other Tesla to show up.
 
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Freewheeler

Vendor
Supporting Member
May 22, 2020
190
164
New York
Who wants to pay $65K for a car.. then immediately need to buy new tires and/or wheels.
I sold mine at less than 5K miles but intended to when I bought the car. The sale of the stock Ubers ready-to-roll came about $500 shy of the cost of the new set, so I basically paid ~$500 for a smoother ride, shed around 200 lbs from the car (Ubers are extremely heavy), and have all-season performance tires with a square setup. Different strokes for different folks, but it was worth every penny to me.
 

pt19713

Member
Feb 5, 2020
989
1,275
Delaware

2020 Tesla Model Y Dual Motor Long Range​

0-60: 4.1 seconds
¼ mile: 12.4 seconds at 114.8 mph
Figure eight: 25.2 seconds at 0.75 g (avg)
60-0: 118 feet

That car that was supposedly stock will kick a 2021 MY LR with AB's butt all over the place. It is .6 seconds quicker in the 1/4 mile than my car stock It is 0.8-0.9 seconds quicker 0-60. Even with AB I can't run those Motor Trend times. Did Tesla slip them a super quick version? Even C&D got better times 0-60 for their 2020 than I've seen any stock 2021 MY LR run by an accurate timing device. Not to mention they ran a 12.5 @114 mph. That is an easy 1/2 second quicker and 4 mph faster. Yet if you look at their 30-70 times, mine is running dead even with theirs (stock for stock). So if my car was a lot heavier, it should have shown up in the 30-70 mph times as well. So why did the 2021s get slower?
That car is an anomaly. I've never seen any other LR Y run faster than 4.6s stock. Owner most likely had a 980 motor and didn't realize it.
 
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pt19713

Member
Feb 5, 2020
989
1,275
Delaware
That is why I accurately represent what my car's state is. I am not saying these are the best times it can do. I don't care what the best times it can do actually are. I don't always know when I am going to leave so it would be hard to do that every time. I want to know what it is capable of at any moment and know what likely the worst case is. This way I know what I at a minimum I can expect is. I would love it it could bang of consistent 4.2 0-60 times but if I have the keep it at 95% SOC or higher, pre-condition it every time, not very likely I am going to be able to enjoy it when I drive it as it will almost never be in that state. Might be fun to brag to my buddies if that mattered to me.

At this point, I am ok with a consistent 4.4 0-60 without battery prep and a high SOC. It is just quick enough to be a daily driver. It is going to be my wife's car and I'm sure she'll be fine with it. I just want it dialed in before she drives it all the time as I'll never get it back and I have a long wait for our other Tesla to show up.
The traction control can be very finicky, dialing back the power slightly and causing the variation. In my runs, I've gotten anywhere from 3.9 to 4.2 (1 ft rollout) on my 2020 LR Y w/ AB, stock 19" Continentals, SoC varying from 68-85%. I tested on a few bad surfaces (lots of little rocks) and my times were 4.4-4.5 (1 ft rollout).
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
That car is an anomaly. I've never seen any other LR Y run faster than 4.6s stock. Owner most likely had a 980 motor and didn't realize it.
I have no doubt that car was an anomaly. It is running fast as an M3 LR and faster than most boosted MY LR's. Might be worth finding a junked 2020 MY LR and do a 980 motor swap and see how it runs then. Make it the 2021 Ghost version.

I had a chance to do some more runs today. I'll post them later when I have more time.
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
Here are some times I ran today. SOC was between 73-77%. Battery pack wasn't warmed up. It was 90F out. I was only able to make 2 runs. I did 2 0-60. This is my first run when I just pulled out of my house. The second one I had to brake so it wasn't a complete run. The first one I kept on it up to about 75. This was my best run so far and about 0.06 seconds quicker than my previous best and trending the right way. My 50-70 time easily matches what C&D got for the MYP. They listed 1.8 sec for 50-70. I have 1.81. I would call that a tie but I am pretty sure I was at a lower SOC than they were and I already have seen the SOC affects the acceleration mostly over 30-50 mph.

IMG_6CDC832648DF-1.jpeg
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I had a chance to run it out more so I took another pass to try and get in a 1/4 mile in my test area. Here is my 1/8th mile run. It is over 1/2 second quicker than my previous best unboosted and about 4 mph faster. The charge was already down to 73-74 for this run. The 1/4 run was my best so far but I couldn't keep it floored to the end. My radar detector beeped just before the 1000' foot mark and I left off the gas. You can see it in the hockey stick on the acceleration curve and speed curve. It was shaping up to be a really good run. Ticked me off as it looked to be a solid run. I still beat my best time unboosted by about 0.5 seconds even though I went through the traps about 13 mph slower. I thought I had a 12.5 run or better going.

IMG_06F4DDFC6DC7-1.jpeg
IMG_1D7B46CD9C4B-1.jpeg


Anyway the boost is a no brainer if you like better performance. I am pretty clearly run heads up with the times C&D got for their MYP from about 30 mph and up. That is the vast majority of where I spend my time anyway. The roll on acceleration is just so satisfying now.
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
What SOC were you at? What were you timing with, Dragy? If so, can you post your runs?

I think I am going to weigh my car tomorrow and see exactly what it is. That might be part of the difference. At least then I can calculate what the weight reduction might do to the times.
 

pt19713

Member
Feb 5, 2020
989
1,275
Delaware
What SOC were you at? What were you timing with, Dragy? If so, can you post your runs?

I think I am going to weigh my car tomorrow and see exactly what it is. That might be part of the difference. At least then I can calculate what the weight reduction might do to the times.
Here's my 1/4 run where I let off early. SoC was 79%.

20210709_082720.jpg
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
Thanks for sharing. Maybe slightly more downhill but good enough to compare. Looks like we are pretty close at the 60' and 330' marks. Not that far off at the 8th, but you are definitely pulling me after the 330' mark.

Any other changes to your car?
 

pt19713

Member
Feb 5, 2020
989
1,275
Delaware
Thanks for sharing. Maybe slightly more downhill but good enough to compare. Looks like we are pretty close at the 60' and 330' marks. Not that far off at the 8th, but you are definitely pulling me after the 330' mark.

Any other changes to your car?
Those runs were completely stock.
I've since upgraded to MPP coilovers and 20" aftermarket wheels and stickier summer tires, but I haven't done any runs since then. Not many good spots in my area that are flat and with little traffic.
 

DayTrippin

Member
Apr 30, 2021
712
682
Jax
Those runs were completely stock.
I've since upgraded to MPP coilovers and 20" aftermarket wheels and stickier summer tires, but I haven't done any runs since then. Not many good spots in my area that are flat and with little traffic.

That should have made the handling and ride a lot better. Would be interesting if you can even do a 0-60 run to see what impact the mods had.
 

MY-Y

Active Member
Mar 4, 2020
1,055
1,171
MD
No racing stripes or NO2 gas??? j/k 😜
It's N2O, not that it's that important though. I was very interested in hotrods in my youth. Things have changed. Apparently some kids race now by taking their cell phones out and run the speed-test app to see who has the fastest data rate. At least nobody gets hurt with that kind of racing.
 
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