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Driver Centric Center Display

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I am curious about one thing. The shroud is a one piece "circle" without a break, isn't it? So, in order to take it off and replace it with your larger shroud for the system with extension brackets, I assume you would have to completely remove the display, unplugging any connecting wires in the process, then slide the old shroud off, bolt the extension brackets on to the display, slide the new shroud on, reattach the wires, bolt the extension brackets on to the existing frame attachment point, then snap the cover back onto the new shroud. There must be enough extra give in the connecting wires to extend far enough to reach the new display location, extended. Is that the process?
I assume also that there are only 2 brackets holding the display in place. Is that display currently actually held in place with just 2 points, one screw in each? Some of this I know I could find out by popping things apart myself, not quite that brave yet on a car I have only had for a week.
 
Got a call from my consultant/engineer/brother earlier today.
He confirmed that the brackets as designed can be made by CNC anodized aluminum.
But, it can only be done at a reasonable cost if there is enough quantity to average out the CNC machine set up fee.

So, I want to start another list for those that might be interested in this project.
I will only proceed if we can get the per set cost below $150.

Post, PM, or email me if you want to be on the list.

CJ

Please add me to the list as well! This is definitely an upgrade over the stock design.
 
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I am curious about one thing. The shroud is a one piece "circle" without a break, isn't it? So, in order to take it off and replace it with your larger shroud for the system with extension brackets, I assume you would have to completely remove the display, unplugging any connecting wires in the process, then slide the old shroud off, bolt the extension brackets on to the display, slide the new shroud on, reattach the wires, bolt the extension brackets on to the existing frame attachment point, then snap the cover back onto the new shroud. There must be enough extra give in the connecting wires to extend far enough to reach the new display location, extended. Is that the process?
I assume also that there are only 2 brackets holding the display in place. Is that display currently actually held in place with just 2 points, one screw in each? Some of this I know I could find out by popping things apart myself, not quite that brave yet on a car I have only had for a week.

The display is held in place by two brackets, one screw each.
You do not have to unplug the screen for my setup.
Just remove the two screws and detach the screen.
Slide the two new brackets into place. Replace the two screws.
There is plenty of slack on the cables.
Add two more screws from the screen to the new brackets.
The new shroud will then snap over the existing shroud.
 
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Sounds perfect. How many more orders do you think you will need before you will make parts for sale? With the complexity of part setup, I assume you will pick one style, probably 10 degrees? and offer just that one. I assume you will also be offering the shroud. If you end up not having enough to make an order worthwhile, will you consider posting the files ( solidworks, stl, similar) to allow those with access to a machine shop and 3D printers to build our own? We have a CNC machine shop, and I know what you mean when you say setup costs are the deciding factor. Less so, of course, with our 3D printers
 
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Pop open the bottom panel of the screen. There are two 10mm hex screw. Remove those and pull the screen out and up at ~30 degree from horizontal.

I am experimenting with a few prototype mounts. The one pictured is at 15 degree rotation. The next one, if I find time tomorrow, will be at 10 degree. Will report on the results and post more pictures then.

CJ

Can you talk us through how to pop off the bottom panel? It looks like there's a thumbnail cut out and what looks like a button, but I don't want to force it and break something.
 
Can you talk us through how to pop off the bottom panel? It looks like there's a thumbnail cut out and what looks like a button, but I don't want to force it and break something.

The circle thing in the middle of the panel is some kind of sensor, don't go poking at that.

The thumbnail cutout at the top of the panel is where you get in - using a flat head screwdriver, you can stick it in to get leverage in prying the top of the panel open. It's held in by friction clips, which are suprisingly tight. The bottom of the panel has permanent tabs that go in first when you put the panel back on. The bottom cannot be opened first. On the first page of this thread, there's an i1Tesla youtube video which shows this. I did the little adjustment they showed in that video, but would really like to get more driver-side tilt to the display.
 
The circle thing in the middle of the panel is some kind of sensor, don't go poking at that.

The thumbnail cutout at the top of the panel is where you get in - using a flat head screwdriver, you can stick it in to get leverage in prying the top of the panel open. It's held in by friction clips, which are suprisingly tight. The bottom of the panel has permanent tabs that go in first when you put the panel back on. The bottom cannot be opened first. On the first page of this thread, there's an i1Tesla youtube video which shows this. I did the little adjustment they showed in that video, but would really like to get more driver-side tilt to the display.

Thanks!
 
Bottom panel

20181010_060046.jpg


OEM bracket after removal of display
20181010_062323.jpg


Display side
20181010_062628.jpg



Carbon fiber nylon bracket in place
20181010_062749.jpg


Screen re-attached
20181010_063511.jpg
 
That is what I expected. Very nice work. How are you on the number of people who want orders? Have you determined if you are going to make it a sale item?

The drawings are finished for the CNC. I'll run a prototype on the mill to test for fit if I get some machine time next week.
I'll submit the number of interested parties then to get a quote to check on the cost of the aluminum brackets.
If it is still too expensive, I can go back to the carbon fiber/nylon version I am using in my car..
We don't have the number to justify making an injection mold for the shroud, so those will have to be 3D printed in house.
Give me some time, but one way or another, I'll make it happen.

CJ
 
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The drawings are finished for the CNC. I'll run a prototype on the mill to test for fit if I get some machine time next week.
I'll submit the number of interested parties then to get a quote to check on the cost of the aluminum brackets.
If it is still too expensive, I can go back to the carbon fiber/nylon version I am using in my car..
We don't have the number to justify making an injection mold for the shroud, so those will have to be 3D printed in house.
Give me some time, but one way or another, I'll make it happen.

CJ

I love you man!
 
The drawings are finished for the CNC. I'll run a prototype on the mill to test for fit if I get some machine time next week.
I'll submit the number of interested parties then to get a quote to check on the cost of the aluminum brackets.
If it is still too expensive, I can go back to the carbon fiber/nylon version I am using in my car..
We don't have the number to justify making an injection mold for the shroud, so those will have to be 3D printed in house.
Give me some time, but one way or another, I'll make it happen.

CJ
I won't speak for everyone, but I would have to say the group here are definitely the early adopters of the early adopters. (Bought a Tesla in the first place, then are willing to actively discuss in a forum environment ways to break open their new toy and tinker with it) I would bet that the largest majority of those who have indicated interest in these brackets would be open to using brackets made of carbon fiber/nylon material. I agree for a "sell on the open market" item, aluminum would be more appealing, since many people do not really understand how strong the new synthetic materials are, nor do they realize how many of the components in their everyday life are CF/N. I am puzzled about one thing. Since CF/N is similar in price to Aluminum, and sometimes harder to machine, since it tends to chew up bits, why would it be cheaper to make parts out of CF/N than out of aluminum?
As far as the shrouds go, I sent a suggestion to you in a private Conversation here in the forums, let me know if this is something that could help.
 
HI @rvandrew,

Cost of materials are minimal compare to labor and machine cost.
With 3D printing there is very little set up cost. Just design and print.
Since it is all in house, modification to the design is done within hours rather than days.
The problem with this method is printing time per piece is very slow (2 hours per bracket).
So 3D printing is awesome for prototyping a few pieces but not so great for production.
My printer nozzles are hardened steel rather than brass which are more costly but stand up well to carbon fiber/nylon.

The cost of the aluminum bracket is the CNC set up cost.
Adjustment to the design after fitting and testing is also time consuming and expensive.
Once I have the machine set up, then the initial cost can be distributed to the entire run.
Of course, the larger the run, the cheaper each piece will be.

Also, thanks for the offer on the shroud.
But the 3D printing although time consuming is the easy part.
For the quality of the finish to be worthy of your $50k car, the parts will require a more post-print processing.
Injection molding would produce better quality parts, but the cost of the molds is prohibitive for our small numbers.
 
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