Ormond
Endless Peacock
I shouldn't be reading this thread when I have a Model X in production. I should have ordered a Model S. I don't have children.
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Driver Door Latch Confused
- Thread starter Bigcountry
- Start date
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- Model X
I shouldn't be reading this thread when I have a Model X in production. I should have ordered a Model S. I don't have children.
Insureit1
Member
Yes I have also had to wait 6 weeks for an appointment which I find completely absurd!! I cannot open my passenger side FWD without holding the button on the screen. Been happening since day 1 even though I was told this was correct prior to delivery (the phantom obstacle appears to be a known issue). The service when I get it to the SC may be fantastic but I would be pissed if my doors would not close and they told me 6 weeks to get it in.
This driver door latch problem appears to be common enough to warrant a recall, at least in my opinion (now that I see this thread) I too had this problem a few weeks back. For me, it nearly bordered on disaster…and that is why I believe Tesla should start addressing it for ALL Model X’s (apparently manufactured with faulty part that was replaced in my X)
The car had been sitting idle for a few days. I came out and noticed HOLY CRAP...DRIVER WINDOW DOWN!!! At first, I thought it was my fault…but since it wasn’t, this is a DISASTER WAITING TO BEFALL MODEL X OWNERS EVERYWHERE (before certain VIN, anyway). The reason I knew quickly that I had stored it with window UP was that the inside of the car was NOT soaked. We had a gulley washer rainstorm and I felt around in between seats, door pockets, etc…bone dry. Therefore the window had GONE DOWN BY ITSELF sometime after that rainstorm. Any time a window GOES DOWN BY ITSELF, the manufacturer SHOULD BE ALARMED!!!!
Upon checking, I found the same issues as described here (ie door registers as open with no cycling sound as normally found and no cinching), adding (as I did not see it in my skimming) that window (with door open) would go up way too high when window button pressed.
I called Tesla service…walked me through steps that accomplished nothing; quickly became apparent that service required. I am so far from SC (on Lake Ontario in NY) that it was not clear immediately who would take care of me. I was told I would be called back…I wasn’t. I called. I was told my problem had been handed off to Cleveland and I should I expect a call. I wasn’t called. I called. It turns out that Cleveland decided that they ‘weren’t equipped’ to handle my problem. REALLY??!! The door won’t shut…if ANY Tesla SC that can’t handle a door latching problem, it should be shut down and re-certified…
…so I called Mt Kisco where support personnel told me I had been reassigned. I was initially told they would drive me up a loaner…a few WEEKS later. I then said that my symptoms should be pretty straight forward and that a road ranger, with the right parts, should be able to solve my problems. Fellow told me he would make some calls and call me back. He did. Road ranger came up 4 or 5 days later (after weekend) and solved my problem in under an hour.
The problem was a faulty ‘door actuator’. I did indeed ask- and this is why this problem is urgent- that really- A DOOR ACTUATOR OPENED MY WINDOW ON ITS OWN??? And YES! The good news is that the tech told me that my replacement actuator is the one NOW being installed on Model Xs…so those of you who have more current Xs will be immune to this (hopefully). I have VIN 4901, so anyone lower than mine should have cause for concern.
So another moral of this story is to push for road ranger service if it seems a better option; it certainly was for me.
PS...this is my only issue in the 5K miles and 3 months of ownership. Rock solid otherwise. But they have GOT to do something about those vampire losses. My Volts sit for WEEKS with negligible losses; meanwhile my X loses several miles each day it is idle. And they have looked at my logs and told me everything is fine. Seriously, it is not fine if someone could burn more miles PARKED than in motion. One can hope that competition from other long range EVs (when they get here) will cause Tesla to not be so sloppy with bleeding wasted energy. And no, the problem is NOT solved by leaving it plugged in, as that merely masks the problem. Waste is waste. [and before you ask, I checked other thread on this issue and all options selected for power saving, including making sure app is shut down on phone]
Note that I did send a suggestion to support and I hope we see it in future software upgrade. It seems like a no-brainer that they go into some kind of battery protect mode to prevent the vehicle from becoming a brick...so why not give owner the option to engage battery protect mode??? They told me I could expect up to 7.5% loss of mileage EVERY DAY!!..it ain't rocket science to see that my 3 week trip to Hawaii several years ago, with my vehicle parked for all that time, would have bricked an EV with this kind of vampire loss (and no protocols in place to stop bleeding energy at some point). So the car CAN protect itself...let's make it optional for owner not to waste all that energy if he chooses.
The car had been sitting idle for a few days. I came out and noticed HOLY CRAP...DRIVER WINDOW DOWN!!! At first, I thought it was my fault…but since it wasn’t, this is a DISASTER WAITING TO BEFALL MODEL X OWNERS EVERYWHERE (before certain VIN, anyway). The reason I knew quickly that I had stored it with window UP was that the inside of the car was NOT soaked. We had a gulley washer rainstorm and I felt around in between seats, door pockets, etc…bone dry. Therefore the window had GONE DOWN BY ITSELF sometime after that rainstorm. Any time a window GOES DOWN BY ITSELF, the manufacturer SHOULD BE ALARMED!!!!
Upon checking, I found the same issues as described here (ie door registers as open with no cycling sound as normally found and no cinching), adding (as I did not see it in my skimming) that window (with door open) would go up way too high when window button pressed.
I called Tesla service…walked me through steps that accomplished nothing; quickly became apparent that service required. I am so far from SC (on Lake Ontario in NY) that it was not clear immediately who would take care of me. I was told I would be called back…I wasn’t. I called. I was told my problem had been handed off to Cleveland and I should I expect a call. I wasn’t called. I called. It turns out that Cleveland decided that they ‘weren’t equipped’ to handle my problem. REALLY??!! The door won’t shut…if ANY Tesla SC that can’t handle a door latching problem, it should be shut down and re-certified…
…so I called Mt Kisco where support personnel told me I had been reassigned. I was initially told they would drive me up a loaner…a few WEEKS later. I then said that my symptoms should be pretty straight forward and that a road ranger, with the right parts, should be able to solve my problems. Fellow told me he would make some calls and call me back. He did. Road ranger came up 4 or 5 days later (after weekend) and solved my problem in under an hour.
The problem was a faulty ‘door actuator’. I did indeed ask- and this is why this problem is urgent- that really- A DOOR ACTUATOR OPENED MY WINDOW ON ITS OWN??? And YES! The good news is that the tech told me that my replacement actuator is the one NOW being installed on Model Xs…so those of you who have more current Xs will be immune to this (hopefully). I have VIN 4901, so anyone lower than mine should have cause for concern.
So another moral of this story is to push for road ranger service if it seems a better option; it certainly was for me.
PS...this is my only issue in the 5K miles and 3 months of ownership. Rock solid otherwise. But they have GOT to do something about those vampire losses. My Volts sit for WEEKS with negligible losses; meanwhile my X loses several miles each day it is idle. And they have looked at my logs and told me everything is fine. Seriously, it is not fine if someone could burn more miles PARKED than in motion. One can hope that competition from other long range EVs (when they get here) will cause Tesla to not be so sloppy with bleeding wasted energy. And no, the problem is NOT solved by leaving it plugged in, as that merely masks the problem. Waste is waste. [and before you ask, I checked other thread on this issue and all options selected for power saving, including making sure app is shut down on phone]
Note that I did send a suggestion to support and I hope we see it in future software upgrade. It seems like a no-brainer that they go into some kind of battery protect mode to prevent the vehicle from becoming a brick...so why not give owner the option to engage battery protect mode??? They told me I could expect up to 7.5% loss of mileage EVERY DAY!!..it ain't rocket science to see that my 3 week trip to Hawaii several years ago, with my vehicle parked for all that time, would have bricked an EV with this kind of vampire loss (and no protocols in place to stop bleeding energy at some point). So the car CAN protect itself...let's make it optional for owner not to waste all that energy if he chooses.
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We have the same issue with the driver door on VIN 009XXX.
It takes 1-30 attempts to open and close. There was one instance when I gave up and closed the door from inside and went out the passenger door. I don't think I ever had to do that in 14 years with my Focus.
We are fighting through it right now because we've been in loaners for close to 50% of our time since delivery. It sounds like a software update won't help so we'll have to bite the bullet.
It takes 1-30 attempts to open and close. There was one instance when I gave up and closed the door from inside and went out the passenger door. I don't think I ever had to do that in 14 years with my Focus.
We are fighting through it right now because we've been in loaners for close to 50% of our time since delivery. It sounds like a software update won't help so we'll have to bite the bullet.
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