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Dumb Winter Range Question

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have you tried www.abetterrouteplanner.com ?

I plugged in about the worst scenario possible - 500 extra pounds of weight, 0 degrees, 10mph headwinds, in a heavy snowstorm. Still no problem. It calculated at 479wh/mi. I can’t imagine it being anywhere near that.

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Im curious, since you already had that info in ABRP.... if you change the speed from 65 to 75, what does that do to the consumption? I dont drive in "real" winter like many of you, but I made the original recommendation to the OP to plan to drive at 65 instead of the 75 that he was planning on, because I felt like that would be the single biggest thing he could do to ensure he could get there.

If I am looking at that screenshot, its for 65 MPH, so I am curious what it shows at 75. I dont think the OP will have nearly the conditions you show there, but it would be interesting to hear (and might be good for the OP and others who are not aware to see what a difference the speed makes).
 
Im curious, since you already had that info in ABRP.... if you change the speed from 65 to 75, what does that do to the consumption? I dont drive in "real" winter like many of you, but I made the original recommendation to the OP to plan to drive at 65 instead of the 75 that he was planning on, because I felt like that would be the single biggest thing he could do to ensure he could get there.

If I am looking at that screenshot, its for 65 MPH, so I am curious what it shows at 75. I dont think the OP will have nearly the conditions you show there, but it would be interesting to hear (and might be good for the OP and others who are not aware to see what a difference the speed makes).

actually, that’s just the “reference” wh/mi (ie the EPA stats.)

I had this set for 93mph max - which is why we got 479 wh/mi.

65mph max gives us 428wh/mi in these conditions. (Ends with 22% battery.)

As you said, that’s the most significant change one can make to help themselves ... but even in the worst case scenario (93mph in a blizzard, at 0 degrees with a 10mph headwind and 500 extra lbs of stuff in the car ...) - he’d be fine. :)
 
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actually, that’s just the “reference” wh/mi (ie the EPA stats.)

I had this set for 93mph max - which is why we got 479 wh/mi.

65mph max gives us 428wh/mi in these conditions. (Ends with 22% battery.)

As you said, that’s the most significant change one can make to help themselves ... but even in the worst case scenario (93mph in a blizzard, at 0 degrees with a 10mph headwind and 500 extra lbs of stuff in the car ...) - he’d be fine. :)

Remember there are multiple ways to adjust speed in ABRP. The max speed is your hard limit. The primary way to adjust speed is with Reference Speed. That sets you to a certain percentage of the speed limit. I use 110% reference speed (77 mph in a 70 zone) for most of my calculations. I don’t use the max speed function and leave it at its 93 MPH default.

Reference consumption is based on 65 MPH. If you’re rolling on winter tires or you have a roof rack, consider increasing your reference consumption figure by 10% or whatever is appropriate.
 
Nonsense. A 20 MPH headwind can increase your consumption by 33% on a trip like that.

Knowledge is power. Check the weather before embarking on a trip, especially in the winter. There is no reason to drive a fossil when you can do it in an EV with a little extra planning.

Because we all know the wind never changes direction unexpectedly.
 
Bring along blankets. This let's you keep the internal temp cooler (and using heated seats) without having to wear coats. Most people actually think it's cozy.

If your trip is 150 miles you will have plenty of charge to spare. The worst TOTAL reduction I've seen has been about 40%, and that was going 70 into a headwind with temps close to zero in my performance 3. (which is already less efficient than yours) If you get nervous just reduce your speed. The difference between 60 and 80 is far more than you think it should be. Efficiency isn't linear with speed, but closer to something like squaring.
 
To give u a little more courage. We just did 180 miles at 30 degrees. No snow but lots of rain With pirelli snow tires. The 20% snow penalty is real. Abpr is accurate. Main thing is to manage speed and if you can draft pickups. It really saves range if u get behind another car. Speed matters too. We were doing 75. But slower really saves as most resistance is wins based. Behind a tractor trailer we found mileage can increase 50%。

And we left it at 68. Did use seat heaters.
 
Update: Made it just fine, with 29% battery to spare. Drove between 70 - 80 the whole way (speed limit is mostly 80 on this stretch). Outside temps were 20 - 35F the whole trip.

Didn't even have to worry AT ALL about range. Autopilot did a spectacular job, too. I love this car.

Had no worries. Enjoy yourself!!!
 
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Update: Made it just fine, with 29% battery to spare. Drove between 70 - 80 the whole way (speed limit is mostly 80 on this stretch). Outside temps were 20 - 35F the whole trip.

Didn't even have to worry AT ALL about range. Autopilot did a spectacular job, too. I love this car.

Good to hear! Now you have a much better idea of range and your car.
 
Update: Made it just fine, with 29% battery to spare. Drove between 70 - 80 the whole way (speed limit is mostly 80 on this stretch). Outside temps were 20 - 35F the whole trip.

Didn't even have to worry AT ALL about range. Autopilot did a spectacular job, too. I love this car.

Good to hear. I routinely commute in my P3D- from Billings to Miles City, 150 miles, and wouldn't worry at all about going to Sheridan under current conditions. I do not have snow tires or even feel the need for such on the paved roads of southeastern Montana. The Tesla 3DM is very good in the snow. My 150-mile commute generally uses 55%-80% charge, depending. Speed above 60-65 mph and temperature below 20f or so are the big range killers for me. If I drive at 85 mph with the temperature in the 20s or lower I have used up to 80% charge or 250 miles of range on the 150-mile trip. Down to Sheridan can be a bit windier than heading east, so there's that. Start with a fully charged preheated car and no worries. When it's below zero and/or a storm I just slow down as needed and monitor efficiency through the energy graft.
 
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